Stage 1 kit for lifan 212

V

VPD66

New Member
#23
#23
I have tried all the holes in the governor arm,I've shortened the governor spring, and have put a zip tie through the governor spring and I can only get 3800-3900 rpm. I'm starting to think the gearing is what is holding (or should I say loading) the engine back. These bikes come with a 5.3-1 gear ratio with is pretty tall. Also these bikes are pretty heavy for a mini bike. I'm thinking a 6-1 gear ratio will give it more low end torque and allow the motor to rev higher.
 
Charles S

Charles S

#24
#24
VPD66 said:
I'm starting to think the gearing is what is holding (or should I say loading) the engine back. These bikes come with a 5.3-1 gear ratio with is pretty tall. Also these bikes are pretty heavy for a mini bike. I'm thinking a 6-1 gear ratio will give it more low end torque and allow the motor to rev higher.
Click to expand...
Multiply the 5.3 by the 2.7 of the CVT's starting ratio and you're starting out at 14.3:1. A larger rear sprocket would give it more grunt at the cost of losing some top speed. I think your choices would be limited to the Mega Max's large sprocket (can't find specs on it) or a custom sprocket, if these bikes have a 3 bolt pattern like pictures show. Another option would be to tune the CVT (torque converter) to "shift" at a higher rpm.

https://azusaeng.com/product/custom-aluminum-sprockets-blanks/
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#25
#25
Charles S said:
Multiply the 5.3 by the 2.7 of the CVT's starting ratio and you're starting out at 14.3:1. A larger rear sprocket would give it more grunt at the cost of losing some top speed. I think your choices would be limited to the Mega Max's large sprocket (can't find specs on it) or a custom sprocket, if these bikes have a 3 bolt pattern like pictures show. Another option would be to tune the CVT (torque converter) to "shift" at a higher rpm.

https://azusaeng.com/product/custom-aluminum-sprockets-blanks/
Click to expand...
They do have the 3 bolt pattern.
 
Charles S

Charles S

#30
#30
Nathannewbie said:
I found this:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/698847...MI556JzcqM4wIVah6tBh2Enw_CEAQYAyABEgJOwvD_BwE
Its a bit expensive do you think it will work?
Click to expand...
Here's the same thing on eBay. It should "work" since it's supposed to be made for the MM but I don't like the design, dumping downward like that. I'd prefer something running back the side that I could put a pit bike muffler on. Actually, I'd prefer an under-seat header (no hot pipe on the side) but it looks like there isn't room for one without removing the fender, and I'd want to keep the fender.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=273881668849
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#31
#31
Charles S said:
Here's the same thing on eBay. It should "work" since it's supposed to be made for the MM but I don't like the design, dumping downward like that. I'd prefer something running back the side that I could put a pit bike muffler on. Actually, I'd prefer an under-seat header (no hot pipe on the side) but it looks like there isn't room for one without removing the fender, and I'd want to keep the fender.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=273881668849
Click to expand...
I know, I dont like it either but was thinking to chop part of it off and turn it then put a muffler. Also wrap it so I dont get burned.
 
Charles S

Charles S

#34
#34
Nathannewbie said:
I know, I dont like it either but was thinking to chop part of it off and turn it then put a muffler. Also wrap it so I dont get burned.
Click to expand...
In that case, I wouldn't waste fifty bucks on it. You can make a flange or cut the flange off of the stock exhaust (or cut the pipe anywhere between the flange and muffler), get some 1" mandrel bent tubing and fabricate the exhaust.
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#35
#35
Charles S said:
In that case, I wouldn't waste fifty bucks on it. You can make a flange or cut the flange off of the stock exhaust (or cut the pipe anywhere between the flange and muffler), get some 1" mandrel bent tubing and fabricate the exhaust.
Click to expand...
I was going to ask about using the stock exhaust.
To make a flange do I just need plain metal? And how thick?
Where do I get bent tubing.
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#37
#37
I was just curious if it was possible. It is not my goal for right now. But maybe in the future
My goal is for more torque not speed. I think the stage one will help me achieve that.
So my question is: what do I need to put a stage one kit on my pro. I know everything to get except what to do about the header.
 
Charles S

Charles S

#38
#38
Nathannewbie said:
I was going to ask about using the stock exhaust.
To make a flange do I just need plain metal? And how thick?
Where do I get bent tubing.
Click to expand...
Make a flange from mild steel plate, it should be at least as thick as the stock exhaust flange, slightly thicker won't hurt and would make the flange more rigid, stronger. Don't go too thick, though, or you'll need longer studs. I've bought mild steel plate on eBay but there are other sources. There are DIY header kits that include 2 or 3 mandrel bends with legs (straight tubing) and a generic clone flange (that won't work for your MM, from what I've read) available on eBay and elsewhere. I bought one but never used it because I then found an NR Racing header that was just what I wanted. Individual mandrel bends in 1" are kinda' hard to find (plenty of larger dia. ones), but there are some sources. To fab a header, you wouldn't necessarily use entire bent sections; most likely you would cut pieces from them and fit them together to get what you want. You could get the most use per dollar from a 180 (you could get a 90 and a couple of 45s from it, for example). What I would do is fab the header on the bike (with proper precautions such as removing fuel tank, fuel line and carburetor). To (over) simplify it, say tack a tight radius 90 to the flange that points rearward, a short straight section (which could be a leg of the bend), then a 45 turning out to the side (to clear the frame), then another 45 to the rear, maybe adjust the two 45s to get a slight upward angle to match the rake of the luggage rack on the MM, then a straight section and muffler. Tight radius bends would, IMO, make fitting easier and result in a neater looking/less bulky header, I would especially want a tight bend at the flange to keep that first bend from sticking out too far, it will be the hottest part of the header. Easy to picture in my head, not so easy to explain. If you aren't equipped to tack as you go, I have an idea on how to work around that.

Here's a DIY kit, it has rather large radius bends; it's the only one that came up in an eBay search, surprisingly.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=192306668897

http://www.mandrelbends.com/mandrel-bends/mild-steel-16-gauge.html

A tight radius 180
https://www.verociousmotorsports.co...Verocious-180-Degree-Mandrel-Bends-Mild-Steel
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#39
#39
Charles S said:
Make a flange from mild steel plate, it should be at least as thick as the stock exhaust flange, slightly thicker won't hurt and would make the flange more rigid, stronger. Don't go too thick, though, or you'll need longer studs. I've bought mild steel plate on eBay but there are other sources. There are DIY header kits that include 2 or 3 mandrel bends with legs (straight tubing) and a generic clone flange (that won't work for your MM, from what I've read) available on eBay and elsewhere. I bought one but never used it because I then found an NR Racing header that was just what I wanted. Individual mandrel bends in 1" are kinda' hard to find (plenty of larger dia. ones), but there are some sources. To fab a header, you wouldn't necessarily use entire bent sections; most likely you would cut pieces from them and fit them together to get what you want. You could get the most use per dollar from a 180 (you could get a 90 and a couple of 45s from it, for example). What I would do is fab the header on the bike (with proper precautions such as removing fuel tank, fuel line and carburetor). To (over) simplify it, say tack a tight radius 90 to the flange that points rearward, a short straight section (which could be a leg of the bend), then a 45 turning out to the side (to clear the frame), then another 45 to the rear, maybe adjust the two 45s to get a slight upward angle to match the rake of the luggage rack on the MM, then a straight section and muffler. Tight radius bends would, IMO, make fitting easier and result in a neater looking/less bulky header, I would especially want a tight bend at the flange to keep that first bend from sticking out too far, it will be the hottest part of the header. Easy to picture in my head, not so easy to explain. If you aren't equipped to tack as you go, I have an idea on how to work around that.

Here's a DIY kit, it has rather large radius bends; it's the only one that came up in an eBay search, surprisingly.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=192306668897

http://www.mandrelbends.com/mandrel-bends/mild-steel-16-gauge.html

A tight radius 180
https://www.verociousmotorsports.co...Verocious-180-Degree-Mandrel-Bends-Mild-Steel
Click to expand...
I have an idea what it would look like.
Just basically coming out on the left side of the frame and staying close to the rack?
 
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