Stage 2 Predator 212 Will not start nor run right. Please help me!!
- Thread starter adelminibikeman
- Start date
I do not know what the Nibbi needs. No experience with them. And I do not recall seeing many threads in this forum when it comes to the Nibbi carbs.
Do you have 14.5 inch tall tires? If so once you get the carb tuned and running you should have a pretty fast bike. And with the torque converter you may have to be careful with the throttle off the line and at slow speeds. It may wheelie on you. If it's too much you would have to change gearing or go with a clutch.
The 265 lift cams seem pretty popular. I have one from Dover power in my 196. Pulls strong from engagement to 4680 RPM in about 90 feet. That engine likes the VM22 clone carb with a 125 main.
And speaking of RPM, get a tach with a max RPM recall function. It's good to know what RPM you run and can be a testing tool. As an example, I got the highest RPM with a 125 jet. Lower max RPM with a 130 and 120 jet.
Do you have 14.5 inch tall tires? If so once you get the carb tuned and running you should have a pretty fast bike. And with the torque converter you may have to be careful with the throttle off the line and at slow speeds. It may wheelie on you. If it's too much you would have to change gearing or go with a clutch.
The 265 lift cams seem pretty popular. I have one from Dover power in my 196. Pulls strong from engagement to 4680 RPM in about 90 feet. That engine likes the VM22 clone carb with a 125 main.
And speaking of RPM, get a tach with a max RPM recall function. It's good to know what RPM you run and can be a testing tool. As an example, I got the highest RPM with a 125 jet. Lower max RPM with a 130 and 120 jet.
No matter the carb you go with, set up your throttle so the slide is able to reach bottom. Then adjust it with the idle screw to about 2-3mm off the floor, max. Any higher and the choke can't operate...any lower and the pilot can't function. There's a sweet spot that should allow starting without any throttle and with or without the choke/enrichener on.
If Nibbi, definitely try it on as-is, but don't be surprised if you end up having to raise the needle by moving the clip a rung or two down from center, and maybe also jetting up on your main, and closing the air screw to just around 1 turn - or less. I have limited experience here but I understand nibbi's sweet spots are tight so getting them dialed in can test one's patience.
If Nibbi, definitely try it on as-is, but don't be surprised if you end up having to raise the needle by moving the clip a rung or two down from center, and maybe also jetting up on your main, and closing the air screw to just around 1 turn - or less. I have limited experience here but I understand nibbi's sweet spots are tight so getting them dialed in can test one's patience.
got some absolutely amazing news. Installed the new VM22 i had laying around, made sure to be extremely careful with the o-ring and making sure there are no air leaks. Didn’t mess with any tuning, and she fired up. Turned it without choke and she stayed on!! Never felt the happiness and relief I did right there. Turned it off and started it off choke again just to make sure and it started like a charm. So it turns out I just ended up getting a faulty carburetor. Glad it was something this simple and not something internaI (knock on wood). Thank you all so so much for your help you really helped a newcomer out. You guys are all amazing and it’s a great community, i’m glad to be apart of it. Attached a video of it now running. Now i’ll work on tuning it and breaking it in! If one of you guys could walk me through how you go about breaking one of these bad boys in, I invested a lot, want to make sure I break it in properly! Thanks guys. 
Because while you were trying to start it, there was gas getting into the cylinder and the engine was not hot enough to evaporate the gas.
Before the engine warms up (and breaks in...) the pressure in the cylinder ABOVE the piston and rings, blows by the rings into the cylinder BELOW the piston and rings, where your oil is. Also, your video looked like it was dripping and flooding. That gas is not good for the oil. Breakin procedure needs fresh clean oil. If that does not make sense, please ask.
If you need proof, stick something into your oil and smell it.
Before the engine warms up (and breaks in...) the pressure in the cylinder ABOVE the piston and rings, blows by the rings into the cylinder BELOW the piston and rings, where your oil is. Also, your video looked like it was dripping and flooding. That gas is not good for the oil. Breakin procedure needs fresh clean oil. If that does not make sense, please ask.
If you need proof, stick something into your oil and smell it.
got some absolutely amazing news. Installed the new VM22 i had laying around, made sure to be extremely careful with the o-ring and making sure there are no air leaks. Didn’t mess with any tuning, and she fired up. Turned it without choke and she stayed on!! Never felt the happiness and relief I did right there. Turned it off and started it off choke again just to make sure and it started like a charm. So it turns out I just ended up getting a faulty carburetor. Glad it was something this simple and not something internaI (knock on wood). Thank you all so so much for your help you really helped a newcomer out. You guys are all amazing and it’s a great community, i’m glad to be apart of it. Attached a video of it now running. Now
breaking it in! If one of you guys could walk me through how you go about breaking one of these bad boys in, I invested a lot, want to make sure I break it in properly! Thanks guys.
breaking it in! If one of you guys could walk me through how you go about breaking one of these bad boys in, I invested a lot, want to make sure I break it in properly! Thanks guys.
My break in procedure is NOT recommended for you. Your warranty is already voided. I keep my governors intact and most of my engines are not on mini bikes, they are used on yard/farm stuff. I mix a tablespoon of Marvel's Mystery oil in a quart of 10w30 CONVENTIONAL oil and I run the piss out of them until the warranty expires, then I change the oil.
Ouch. Yeah don't do it that way. He's a professional. 
Use conventional oil. Run it friendly-like, and across the throttle range, for about 20 mins to a half hour, but being gradual and gentle when raising or lowering rpms. Then run it consistent and holding in the mid-low range for another 20 mins to half hour. And btw let it rest and cool in between these sessions. Then a half-hour at mid-high. Then maybe 10-15 mins near a reasonable max band just to say you got there. You don't want to melt anything. And btw I prefer to do this on a bench, or bike stand, rather than riding it. It's helps you keep an eye on things – like leaks and smoke. Then change the oil (more of the conventional) and go ride it hard as you want for about 5 or 10 hours (a week or two?). Then change oil again, and to synthetic if you want this time. Check your head bolts and any others you've torqued to specs. Should be good. Congrats on your ride.
Use conventional oil. Run it friendly-like, and across the throttle range, for about 20 mins to a half hour, but being gradual and gentle when raising or lowering rpms. Then run it consistent and holding in the mid-low range for another 20 mins to half hour. And btw let it rest and cool in between these sessions. Then a half-hour at mid-high. Then maybe 10-15 mins near a reasonable max band just to say you got there. You don't want to melt anything. And btw I prefer to do this on a bench, or bike stand, rather than riding it. It's helps you keep an eye on things – like leaks and smoke. Then change the oil (more of the conventional) and go ride it hard as you want for about 5 or 10 hours (a week or two?). Then change oil again, and to synthetic if you want this time. Check your head bolts and any others you've torqued to specs. Should be good. Congrats on your ride.
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Have you tried adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw? Also if you have other jets try starting with a 110 and go up from there after reading your plug. Are your valves adjusted correctly? Have you tried upping the idle screw? Maybe it's too low to idle hence dies as soon as your release throttle. Also look at spark plug maybe it got fouled in these trials. Clean it up with a soft wire brush and brake clean. Get a new one soon as ya can if it appears to fix/solve issue. Just a few things off the top of my head you could check. Hope any of this is helpful. I know how frustrating things can be at times. Stick to it you'll figure it out bud!