Starting a budget build

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#23
Made some progress today. Made brackets for some moped shocks I'm fitting the the swing arm. Clears the engine nicely and has room for the exhaust pipe to go right between them and out the back. Also bored out my primary driven sprocket to fit the jack shaft hub. It's a slip fit until I get the engine back in and clutch lined up with it. Then I'll get it welded. Still have to come up with a final drive sprocket to go next to it. DSCN8115.JPG DSCN8116.JPG
 
#24
Made some progress today. Made brackets for some moped shocks I'm fitting the the swing arm. Clears the engine nicely and has room for the exhaust pipe to go right between them and out the back. Also bored out my primary driven sprocket to fit the jack shaft hub. It's a slip fit until I get the engine back in and clutch lined up with it. Then I'll get it welded. Still have to come up with a final drive sprocket to go next to it. View attachment 246075 View attachment 246076
GOOD JOB!!
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#29
Today I got my upper shock support welded to the frame, gussets welded in, and final drive chain fitted. It's time to put the motor back together and fit the primary chain. Going to remove the fuel tank mounts from the motor, as I will be using a top tank. I found some 4'' thick re-bond foam rubber to fashion a seat from. Don't know the shape until I choose a gas tank. After changing the kickstand length twice, I learned to leave it alone until the rest is done. DSCN8118.JPG DSCN8117.JPG
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#30
More progress today. Lapped the valves and put the motor together. Chose a fuel tank and cut the foam rubber. Still need to figure tank mounting and make a base for the seat. I'll be working on the primary drive next. DSCN8120.JPG
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#32
Yep, I'm running it like that because I don't like the cylinder facing the rear. And the double pulley jack shaft is on the right side. Here's a photo of my template to make it go forward. I've done all the engineering, just have to fab it up and install it. DSCN8096.JPG
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#33
I like doing things a little different. It's been done before, but not by me. Kind of concerned about wrapping the chain around those 10t idlers. but we'll see how it works. Worse case, I throw it in the trash and start over.
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#35
I was waiting for someone to mention it. I think a nice air filter or velocity stack sticking out the left front and a cool curving exhaust pipe flowing out the back will look killer. I can make a guard to cover all those primary sprockets and chain. I have a 1/4'' aluminum plate to attach to the 4 holes around the perimeter of the crankshaft going back to support the idler pulleys and reinforced with an outer plate sandwiching the whole mess. Add a rear support to retain rigidity, and I think it will work fine. We're going to find out. Makes it real easy to fit a throttle cable with the carb up front. Lots more machining to do before it can be tested. My grandson has a tube bender for the ex. pipe and I have stainless tubing plus some plate to make the flange. I'm having a lot of fun with this project. Hope you guys like it.
 
#36
I like what your doing with the bike. It's really coming along nicely.

That "backwards" engine actually leaves a lot of cool opportunities as far as having a more conventional motorcycle looking style. Getting used to pull starting it from the other side will probably take some getting used to.

Do you think you'll have to add a chain tensioner to the sprocket contraption? I know those chains can stretch quite a bit.
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#37
The engine mounting plate allows about 3/4'' of adjustment. And I have screw adjusters that will pull it backwards into the jack shaft. Which means the assembly will have to pivot a little where it attaches to the side cover of the engine. I went with #41 chain for strength.
 
#38
Thanks guys, I really need to pre-load the shocks because they're a bit soft.
It looks like they have ramped adjusters, and they're set full soft (at least in the pic in post #29).
You can use a spanner wrench to turn the adjuster to compress the spring to your preference.
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#39
It looks like they have ramped adjusters, and they're set full soft (at least in the pic in post #29).
You can use a spanner wrench to turn the adjuster to compress the spring to your preference.
Yes, I left them on the softest setting until I get through modifying them. I had the shocks apart for cleanup and I think I can shorten the damper rods a half inch or so to level the frame a bit.
 

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