Finished the outer plate that supports the idler sprockets. The bolts that go through the idlers will also go through slotted supports welded to the frame because the aluminum will flex if not secured.
I hope it sees some action. I have to make sure it's very solid and not flimsy. I just took the shocks apart and added threads to the damper rods, then shortened them 1/2''. Now the bike sets real nice without the rear end kicked up so far.
I finished the frame bracket that once welded in place will keep the aluminum plates from flexing and throwing the chain. The slotted holes allow the engine assembly to be adjusted forwards and backwards to tension the primary chain and then tightened. The spacer for he lower idler is cut for final drive chain clearance.
I'm mounting the fuel tank using standoffs that reach the frame rails to be welded. Also drilled a hole on the top left rail to put the tube through that will have the valve attached. It's heavily reinforced, so no problem weakening the frame.
I bought a couple of aluminum baseball bats a few years ago at a swap meet to maybe someday cut them up and use the tapers for an exhaust megaphone. Well, I never got around to using them and decided to cut one up and make a velocity stack for the Honda carb. Looked pretty cool but I wanted to flare the end out a little and put in in my press over a steel ball. Not realizing the bats are hardened, duh, it cracked. I'll probably make one from solid bar stock. Also when I decided to not use the original air filter and housing, I had no way for the choke lever to stay on it's shaft. So I drilled and tapped the pivot shaft to 4-40 and held it on with a alan bolt.
Finally got me shroud and pull starter painted and installed. I used Rustoleum hammered bronze. It covers very well, dries quickly and is really tough. A neutral color that goes with just about any other color you choose. Looks much better in person. Get some welding done next and I'm very close to a test ride.
Thanks massacre, I tend to do things differently for the challenge. I may be a little underhanded, but not left handed. When this one's done, I may look for a Rupp. I think they're some of the best looking mini bikes ever. I need to get my Cushman Eagle on the road and also I have a Mustang Pony 3 speed to finish. Oh, and a couple of Whizzers I'm in the middle of. Then I can get back on 6 Briggs powered bicycles. Got more projects than I'll ever get done. Also working on a couple of special whirligigs for my grand kids.
Started my final pre-assembly. Threw the stock muffler away knowing I was going to make a custom pipe. Should of kept it for a test ride. Exhaust and rear brake caliper plus cable will finish this off. Then I can ride it for a while and work any bugs out of it while I think of what colors to paint it. Hooked up the throttle with a couple of simple links with Z bends on each end and an extra return spring. Works nice and smooth. Installed the fuel valve and filter and put some lightening holes in the outer sprocket cover.
I love zip ties for mock ups and pre assemblies, but I hate them on a finished product. So I make my own clamps for cables and hoses from stainless industrial clamping material. Here's the tools I use and the one I made to do the loop. Put the home made tool in the vise and use a piece of round stock the size of the cable you're clamping. Close the vice and you have the loop formed neatly wherever you want it. I use a Whitney punch for the holes in the end before bending the ends out for the bolt. I now use 4-40 stainless allen head screws with lock nuts to attach them to the frame.
I've since refined my tool to set in the vice jaws making the job much easier. You can do the same with pliers and drilling holes, but I found this way much better for a clean looking project.
Also the making of cables is important to get the desired look you're after. Just choosing a cable that's close to my needs and then having to shorten it plus change the ends seemed wasteful and still may not come out perfect.
When I get ready to put control cables on one of my bikes, I get them all draped and routed the way it looks best, cut to length, and fitted with the correct ends with a professional cable making kit I purchased online. You can buy everything separately or in kit form. I bought a 50' roll of cable, 50' roll of conduit, an assortment of cable ends, solder, flux and a melting pot. I plug the pot in and when the solder is melted, I can make all the cables at one time, making sure they're perfect. Flanders offers all this and it's really high quality. You get your choice of cable. I went with fine stranded for flexibility. I use the same for throttle, brakes, compression release and clutch. When I need to make cables for motorcycles, I will purchase larger cable, conduit and end assortment. Sure you can melt solder with a propane torch and make your own ends, but this is the professional way real shops do it. It's an investment, but with all the bikes we make, it should pay for itself in convenience. You can also do the job with a propane torch and solder. I just wanted a better cable.
Choosing the right fuel valves and filters is very important.Here are a few fuel valves and filters available from other industries. Whether you prefer the vintage look of a sediment bowl, screw in or inline, metal or plastic, with or without built in screen, straight or 90 degree, the lawnmower supply shop can offer all. I got these from the Rotary catalog, which most mower repair shops stock or can get in a couple of days. The threaded valves are 1/8" npt, and the slip ons are 1/4".
My edger has the same GX120 Honda motor as my mini bike, so I borrowed the muffler to take a test ride. It was a tight fit so I took the guard off. Everything works perfect. Steering is nice, the twin shocks offer a great ride, brakes are strong. The Horstman clutch is perfect, the motor takes off fast and pulls hard, seat is comfy, riding position and foot peg location is right and it's a pleasure to cruise the neighborhood and those rounded tires are good in the corners. The only downsides are although my weird chain drive works perfectly, it's a little noisy with those extra sprockets. I think some chain wax and bearing lube will help a lot. It sounds like a gear drive on a street rod. Also the moped fuel tank must have some residual 2-stroke oil in the bottom that didn't flush out because it smokes some. I removed the fuel valve and it was clogged so I need to run a couple of tanks of gas through it. It smokes less each ride, and there's no blow by or moisture at the crankcase vent. The motor is in great condition. Anyway I call it a success and now I need to make that darn exhaust pipe so I can edge my yard. Also need to add a mirror. I'll try to get my wife to shoot a video of me riding it soon.
Found my box of mirrors and picked one out. Got tired of messing with the cheesey side stand and adapted one from a bicycle. May need to shorten it a bit more. Gave it the lean test and it looks like it hits about the same time as the foot peg, so I'm okay with that.