This thread is about how to extract the full power from the stock brakes.
Cable tension is the only think people really look at when tuning their brakes, but you also need to look at the pre-load in the brake-actuating arm. When adjusting your brakes, if you pre-load the brake arm THEN set the tension, it will amplify your braking power. Test it out, you'll see what I mean.
I have my brakes set basically from no engagement to full-engagement (no in-between) but it grips like a bull!! The lever only moves back about an inch before it completely stops, no spongy feeling. I can now officially LOCK up my rear tire slowing down on asfalt!!! Forget hydraulic, just tune out your stock disk.. Sure, I have years experience as a bike mechanic but still, this is one tip a beginner could do also. A must try!
(Also, im im stock tires w/ about 25% tread left but you get the point)
Cable tension is the only think people really look at when tuning their brakes, but you also need to look at the pre-load in the brake-actuating arm. When adjusting your brakes, if you pre-load the brake arm THEN set the tension, it will amplify your braking power. Test it out, you'll see what I mean.
I have my brakes set basically from no engagement to full-engagement (no in-between) but it grips like a bull!! The lever only moves back about an inch before it completely stops, no spongy feeling. I can now officially LOCK up my rear tire slowing down on asfalt!!! Forget hydraulic, just tune out your stock disk.. Sure, I have years experience as a bike mechanic but still, this is one tip a beginner could do also. A must try!
(Also, im im stock tires w/ about 25% tread left but you get the point)