Tav driven RED spring.

[delray]

hent

It's a crap shoot of what will and won't fit China vs. Comet TAV. There are many factories in China that reproduce these, and the specs are not always the same, even from the same factory. Tooling and tolerances change. That's why we can not guarantee any direct replacement on parts for Chinese torque converters.

Some people are OK with 16mm and 5/8" being the same size. It's NOT. But with a hammer or a file it is to them.

i am with hent on this.
i own one china torque converter and nothing interchanges when it comes to shaft/bearings and this was installed on a higher hp motor and only took one short summer to eat up the belt too.
it might be worth spending the extra and getting a real comet setup in the furture.
for example: you purchase a china unit thinking your going to save money? and now you have to buy a yellow spring and pay for shipping?
comet you would of just bolted it on and go....

 

[FirePowerMinis]

hent
i am with hent on this.
i own one china torque converter and nothing interchanges when it comes to shaft/bearings and this was installed on a higher hp motor and only took one short summer to eat up the belt too.
it might be worth spending the extra and getting a real comet setup in the furture.
for example: you purchase a china unit thinking your going to save money? and now you have to buy a yellow spring and pay for shipping?
comet you would of just bolted it on and go....

I agree that quality counts, and costs. But, doesn't the Comet come with a green spring?

 

[danford1]

hent
i am with hent on this.
i own one china torque converter and nothing interchanges when it comes to shaft/bearings and this was installed on a higher hp motor and only took one short summer to eat up the belt too.
it might be worth spending the extra and getting a real comet setup in the furture.
for example: you purchase a china unit thinking your going to save money? and now you have to buy a yellow spring and pay for shipping?
comet you would of just bolted it on and go....

Am I missing something here? If a guy buys a complete Chinese unit for $63.75 GO KART TORQUE CONVERTER KIT CLUTCH 3/4" COMET TAV2 30-75 218353A 12T #35 10T 41 | eBay
and has to buy a yellow spring for $14 plus $8 shipping, he is worse off then paying $196 for a Comet tav?
My math says he has about $86 invested. Comet unit https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/tav2-1-drive-12t-35-c218352a.html
I come up with a $110 savings.
I may be missing the point. If I am , please correct me. I get confused easily sometimes.

Danford1

 

[delray]

FirePowerMinis,yes comet comes with green spring and for most of us would just use the green and would not have to change it. maybe the position. for example the 1,2or3 hole.

 

[delray]

Danford1, not so much the big savings. quality of the product. something that is advertise has replacement comet torque converter and really isn't. bearings/shaft. parts will not fit in a real comet unit.
here is picture of a chinese belt one summer on my bike and it just got worse. inside and outside just tore up bad.
look i see a red spring......:chinese:

now running a comet belt and had no problems.

like they say,get what you pay for...:facepalm:

 

[minibikin']

There are plenty of guys running the China TAV with a Comet belt and some tuning. Are they better then Comet?? The quality differences and tolerances can be noticed. However that doesn't mean you can't get one to work decent. The big hang up with the genuine Comet on the Hondas and Predators was fitment. Having to grind away the driven support area on the back side due to cylinder head interference.


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[SAS289]

Don't rev em too high. This guy's drive pulley blew apart at speed.[video=youtube;U1hg-PxAv8E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1hg-PxAv8E[/video]

 

[rickou812]

Don't rev em too high. This guy's drive pulley blew apart at speed.

Thanks for the heads up, BUT the driver looks to be intact with exception of the lost parts. It appears that either the crankshaft bolt backed out or broke causing the pulling to come off the crankshaft.

Question. Is the crankshaft bolt broke, piece still in the crankshaft?

 

[super nate]

I run a tav 30 series with a seven inch driven pulley yellow gartner springs in the driver, stock spring in the #1 hole on the pulley,with a bando 203591 belt...this little modified 212 launches at 4000rpm on the wheelie bars and turns 7800rpm in the eighth mile trap at 60mph...never had a problem.....setup is everything with these torque converters...ya just don't bolt them on and go...they have to be straight and the belts and sheeves need to be aligned

 

[SAS289]

Thanks for the heads up, BUT the driver looks to be intact with exception of the lost parts. It appears that either the crankshaft bolt backed out or broke causing the pulling to come off the crankshaft.

Question. Is the crankshaft bolt broke, piece still in the crankshaft?

He didn't say. But he did say the bolt broke.

 

[rickou812]

I run a tav 30 series with a seven inch driven pulley yellow gartner springs in the driver, stock spring in the #1 hole on the pulley,with a bando 203591 belt...this little modified 212 launches at 4000rpm on the wheelie bars and turns 7800rpm in the eighth mile trap at 60mph...never had a problem.....setup is everything with these torque converters...ya just don't bolt them on and go...they have to be straight and the belts and sheeves need to be aligned

Cool, What is the 1/8 mile ET?
I am running a 6", but have not been able to prevent OD from coming in too early pulling the engine down to much. I may try the 7" driven. I would like to step up to a polar type converter but can't talk myself into spending $700+ on just the clutch..

 

[super nate]

the 30 series is a great torque converter when set up right... stronger garnter springs will give you a higher launch rpm and there are different shoes also to effect launch rpm. there are springs for the pulley to control the first gear hold... haven't been able to get small blocks to pull past the over drive on the six inch pulleys..the seven will launch like its on nitrous and go one to one on top end allowing your motor to rev...the high dollar polar and shockwave converters are not necessary on small block or big block motors unless your making over 50hp...I run a 40 series converter on my 390 with a highly modified driver that launches at 5500 with a 7/8 belt that will scare the crap out of you...I make custom parts for the 40 series driver for that purpose.

 

[danford1]

For the 6" driver and overdrive. To stop it from going into overdrive, can't you add a spacer to limit how far the sheaves come together?
That would keep it at one to one or lower if revs are desired.
Danford1

 

[Hent]

Just remember, these were designed for 3-8HP Engines...

 

[SAS289]

Just remember, these were designed for 3-8HP Engines...

One guy on you tube commented "Tavs are kids toys. Not for performance applications".

 

[delray]

from a dead stop straight line hard acceleration.

super nate

the 30 series is a great torque converter when set up right...

danford1

For the 6" driver and overdrive

might be wrong on this guys? wouldn't you be better off with a 20 series. both sides of the belt are v , not like the 30 series where only one side is v and the other is flat. making it more prone to slip? also the 6 inch on a 20 series does not act like a over drive?

 

[super nate]

if you use a bando Kevlar belt, stiffer garnter springs and have your sheeves aligned up correctly the 30 series is a very dependable converter for racing...I use them on all my small blocks with no problems they hit hard launch on the wheelie bars and go like they are supposed to... most people that have them are not aware of the high performance parts available for the 30 that allows you to customize the launch rpm and the ratio transition...the 20 series has a six and seven inch pulley that works just like the 30 the two are very similar except for the belt...

 

[danford1]

if you use a bando Kevlar belt, stiffer garnter springs and have your sheeves aligned up correctly the 30 series is a very dependable converter for racing...I use them on all my small blocks with no problems they hit hard launch on the wheelie bars and go like they are supposed to... most people that have them are not aware of the high performance parts available for the 30 that allows you to customize the launch rpm and the ratio transition...the 20 series has a six and seven inch pulley that works just like the 30 the two are very similar except for the belt...

What is the Bando belt number needed for a 30 series TAV2 with 6" Driven?
Thanks
Danford1

 

[Kleyny]

Would also love to know the bando belt part number..

 

[Kleyny]

For the 6" driver and overdrive. To stop it from going into overdrive, can't you add a spacer to limit how far the sheaves come together?
That would keep it at one to one or lower if revs are desired.
Danford1

I'm trialling a sheave to stop the driver coming all the way together to get into "overdrive". My first test was 8mm and it didn't get into overdrive but wasn't1:1 either. Do I have now made the sheave 6.5mm to see how this goes. When the tc was not modified it my engine would only rev to 3700 and do 50km/hr. With the 8mm it hit 50km/hr but at 5000rpm. Hopefully at 6.5mm it will rev out to 5000 but be faster. I have also changed my red spring position from the center to the harder one to try and get it to rev a bit longer before it goes up in gear ratio.