The 7" Tav-30 driven doesn't fit on backplate?
- Thread starter manco12
- Start date
- Tags backplate? doesn't driven tav-30
I just have a Serengeti Puma with a torque converter - with the 6" driven. I want to keep a reliable and governed bike and figure it'd be a good way to improve performance without losing any top end. At some point I may want a different engine, but I really like the clone so I'm keeping it for a while.
could you elaborate more? It doesn't have to do with belt length but belt alignment, right? Is the 7" driven "wider"?
could you elaborate more? It doesn't have to do with belt length but belt alignment, right? Is the 7" driven "wider"?
If No.
There is no correct length belt that fits a 30 series with 7 inch secodary on a TAV back plate.
You need this
Clutch Mount with Jackshaft (03191), www.bmikarts.com : BMI Karts & Supplies : Go Karts Parts : Racing Go Kart Parts : GoKarts : Versailles, Ohio : USA : Indoor Track : Tips
Use that your engine bolts on top then use the correct belt. ( 91 I think )
If I were to do it all over again I have some thoughts.
I would build a third generation angle mount to tilt th engine 15 deg foreward and build the beraing suport and jack shaft into the mount for more strength.
I might even consider upgrading to the 3/4 inch jack shaft but that introduces a sproket issue.
You may find you want to use a 9 tooth even with the larger 7 inch secondary.
A lot depends on how much power your engine can produce and where it makes that power.
A built clone with a wide flat torque curve that pulls to 6000 rpm with the 7 inch and 9 tooth has the potential to make very good low end torque and with 20 inch tyres the absolute top end limit around 50MPH.
Thats fast man REALY fast but stil climbs like a monkey.....
There is no correct length belt that fits a 30 series with 7 inch secodary on a TAV back plate.
You need this
Clutch Mount with Jackshaft (03191), www.bmikarts.com : BMI Karts & Supplies : Go Karts Parts : Racing Go Kart Parts : GoKarts : Versailles, Ohio : USA : Indoor Track : Tips
Use that your engine bolts on top then use the correct belt. ( 91 I think )
If I were to do it all over again I have some thoughts.
I would build a third generation angle mount to tilt th engine 15 deg foreward and build the beraing suport and jack shaft into the mount for more strength.
I might even consider upgrading to the 3/4 inch jack shaft but that introduces a sproket issue.
You may find you want to use a 9 tooth even with the larger 7 inch secondary.
A lot depends on how much power your engine can produce and where it makes that power.
A built clone with a wide flat torque curve that pulls to 6000 rpm with the 7 inch and 9 tooth has the potential to make very good low end torque and with 20 inch tyres the absolute top end limit around 50MPH.
Thats fast man REALY fast but stil climbs like a monkey.....
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checked my numbers again.
Stock clone.
Thats still a good combination with stock tyres.
You will loose some top speed maybe 35.
But getting there it will have tyre spinning torque.
Let me tell you something.....
Nearly everyone uses the standard TAV2 with a stock clone on these bikes.
They are geared TOO high and stock clone sjust don't have the torque to fully open the clutch.
You don't have the torque and these bikes are all about torque not speed.
once you drive something thats geared correctly you will understand what I mean.
They are a real pleasure to drive after. They have torque you never use and they are easier on the belts.
Thats what you REALY want.....
Gear it low use the full pontential of the 30 series
Stock clone.
Thats still a good combination with stock tyres.
You will loose some top speed maybe 35.
But getting there it will have tyre spinning torque.
Let me tell you something.....
Nearly everyone uses the standard TAV2 with a stock clone on these bikes.
They are geared TOO high and stock clone sjust don't have the torque to fully open the clutch.
You don't have the torque and these bikes are all about torque not speed.
once you drive something thats geared correctly you will understand what I mean.
They are a real pleasure to drive after. They have torque you never use and they are easier on the belts.
Thats what you REALY want.....
Gear it low use the full pontential of the 30 series
I thought there were a bunch of size belts, just assumed one would be right I guess.
I agree that they're geared too high. I got a 8 tooth sprocket and plan on getting a UNI and exhaust. I don't feel that it's worth going beyond that with a clone unless for competition to see who can build a clone better. Since I'd rather get an animal and mod it or even better just get the world formula if I wanted all that power. That would still require a lot more maintenance and cost though. Makes me think, keep the clone on the Puma, and build a smaller bike for speed haha.
So I take it you agree that the 7" and jackshaft would be a good investment when I get some more money?
I agree that they're geared too high. I got a 8 tooth sprocket and plan on getting a UNI and exhaust. I don't feel that it's worth going beyond that with a clone unless for competition to see who can build a clone better. Since I'd rather get an animal and mod it or even better just get the world formula if I wanted all that power. That would still require a lot more maintenance and cost though. Makes me think, keep the clone on the Puma, and build a smaller bike for speed haha.
So I take it you agree that the 7" and jackshaft would be a good investment when I get some more money?
I think its your money and you decide based on your own experience.
Since you already noticed the TAV needs the 8 tooth I think you will agree the 7" - 9 combo is close to that with room for further reduction.
I would not waste my money on an animal.
Put a 14cc head on that engine and tweek the governer, add a header, rejet and uni filter and adaptor and and it will perform like an animal with no other changes.
Spending money is complicated.
You need to look atthe whole package and what you are trying to do.
Since you did not tell me exactly what kind of riding or racing I made some very generic sugestions.
That TAV with a modified clone is a real jack of all trades.
Its got great excelleration from a dead stop and the potential to go pretty fast.
Its not going to run with the same comparable engine and good high end clutch geared drag racing or for flat track racing.
Those are two different bikes and geared accordingly.....
But the 7 inch 30 series and an engine that can throw 12 to 14 hp at it will do very well for itself.
In a perfect world I would mate the TAV to a small 2 planetary gear box with a band clutch to widen that torque range even further ( to my knolege no such box exists though ).
I would love to have a stump pulling low range and an eyeball melting top end. That would win races for me....
Since you already noticed the TAV needs the 8 tooth I think you will agree the 7" - 9 combo is close to that with room for further reduction.
I would not waste my money on an animal.
Put a 14cc head on that engine and tweek the governer, add a header, rejet and uni filter and adaptor and and it will perform like an animal with no other changes.
Spending money is complicated.
You need to look atthe whole package and what you are trying to do.
Since you did not tell me exactly what kind of riding or racing I made some very generic sugestions.
That TAV with a modified clone is a real jack of all trades.
Its got great excelleration from a dead stop and the potential to go pretty fast.
Its not going to run with the same comparable engine and good high end clutch geared drag racing or for flat track racing.
Those are two different bikes and geared accordingly.....
But the 7 inch 30 series and an engine that can throw 12 to 14 hp at it will do very well for itself.
In a perfect world I would mate the TAV to a small 2 planetary gear box with a band clutch to widen that torque range even further ( to my knolege no such box exists though ).
I would love to have a stump pulling low range and an eyeball melting top end. That would win races for me....
Torque Converter Go Kart Cart Minibike 7" Driven TAV TAV2 30 Series 3/4" #40 41 | eBay
Is this what you are trying to do?
Obviously the 203589 belt for the 6" won't fit, with a 7" driven 6 5/8" - 6 11/16"
But a 203591 belt should work, 6 13/16" - 6 7/8"
See the chart,
http://www.bmikarts.com/item/30-Series-Comet-Torque-Converter-Drive-Belt-203589-203599-217248-3509
Is this what you are trying to do?
Obviously the 203589 belt for the 6" won't fit, with a 7" driven 6 5/8" - 6 11/16"
But a 203591 belt should work, 6 13/16" - 6 7/8"
See the chart,
http://www.bmikarts.com/item/30-Series-Comet-Torque-Converter-Drive-Belt-203589-203599-217248-3509
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I don't know what that is you found Big Jim...
I have never seen a TAV2 with a 7 inch....
Itrs Chinese parts and probably Chinese back plate.
They may have tweeked them to fit a standard belt.
As far as I can tell there is no fit for the standard TAV with 7 inch
With the Yerf Dog jack shaft you can grind the holes if needed to fudge the C to C.
You could also do that with a bolt on TAV30 but I never considered that.
Not sure about that belt.
1/8 does not sound like much difference but its still long and might slip.
I have never seen a TAV2 with a 7 inch....
Itrs Chinese parts and probably Chinese back plate.
They may have tweeked them to fit a standard belt.
As far as I can tell there is no fit for the standard TAV with 7 inch
With the Yerf Dog jack shaft you can grind the holes if needed to fudge the C to C.
You could also do that with a bolt on TAV30 but I never considered that.
Not sure about that belt.
1/8 does not sound like much difference but its still long and might slip.
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Bigger problem is the primary will have to open wider to engage the belt.
This means with a belt too long you might actualy loose some of the reduction the TAV offers at low speed.
Combine that with belt wear and things might not work as designed.
I just had a thought...
What if this TAV with a 7 inche driven is just something that vender assembled out of parts?
Notice no belt is sold with it.
What if he is just trying to sell parts he had left over and could not move?
A 7 inch secondary is not a big seller for minibikes.
This means with a belt too long you might actualy loose some of the reduction the TAV offers at low speed.
Combine that with belt wear and things might not work as designed.
I just had a thought...
What if this TAV with a 7 inche driven is just something that vender assembled out of parts?
Notice no belt is sold with it.
What if he is just trying to sell parts he had left over and could not move?
A 7 inch secondary is not a big seller for minibikes.
I was thinking a 203592. if you read different caculations on the chart it figures out to be 1 approx different in length from shaft to engine from 6 to 7 driven. the pic on ebay shoes a 6" the 7" will stick out of the tav. even if you do a cut out on the cover the belt will still slap the cover and tear it off. Not just that its a POS china crap. Use a comet tav. and if needed the little sprocket on the tav go to 1 size smaller. you will loose top end but it will work. option #2 Use comet tav buy the tighter driver spring. rpm will boost a bit and give you the torque you want for your power band.
Yup.
Sums things up.....
I have said this before several times though.
The Chinese stuff is cheap.
I mean it 60% to 70% cheaper than Comet
And not all of it is bad.
Remember a lot of people myself included bought chinese parts from BMI when there was nothing else to be had.
Atill works just fine and unlike the realy bad knock parts everything interchanges.
Buyer however beware.....
Sums things up.....
I have said this before several times though.
The Chinese stuff is cheap.
I mean it 60% to 70% cheaper than Comet
And not all of it is bad.
Remember a lot of people myself included bought chinese parts from BMI when there was nothing else to be had.
Atill works just fine and unlike the realy bad knock parts everything interchanges.
Buyer however beware.....