The Evil Tweety Bird

I posted in the General forum my story and how I ended up here, so I'll just move on to the meat of the rebuild.

So begins the story of the Evil Tweety Bird.

Managed to pick up a Bird Thunderbird, for free.:thumbsup: "Just needs a motor" Okay, that and a ground up restoration.:scared:

What I've got is the basic frame/forks/wheels. Everything else is missing or shot, so I'm really going to need some help from you folks to get her back up and running.

Tear down about 95% complete, amazing what a soaking of PB Blaster will do to rusted fasteners.

Only thing not apart is the forks, they appear to be frozen. Won't compress or extend. More PB or maybe some heat?

Okay first thing on the missing list. An engine, Harbor Freight Predator looks like a winner, and it's on sale!

Now then, what else is missing and where to get it?

Fuel tank, Bird style or something similar?

Wheel bearings?


Tires 2.50 x 10's on it?

Thanks in advance for any leads,directions, tips or tricks you can provide.



I'll be watching. This was my first bike build. You've got the essentials there. 2.50-10s are the right tire. I will tell you that a 6.5 Predator is going to be WAY too much engine for that frame (if it even fits). Your sprocket looks good and it's an 78 or 80 tooth, if I remember correctly. The Pred will put you up and over in a nano-second with stock gearing. You might want to search for a Tecumseh HS40 (ebay had a couple)--H35s were the original motor. With the angled engine mount, people hunt for a slanted intake but I had no problems with a stock one. Tanks can be hard to come by but I was able to adapt a tear drop tank to mine (old style Manco T-Bird tanks do fit). Your bike is way better shape than mine was--so good be a fun build.
Not sure what is going on, tried posting multiple times today, and every time I do I get a warning about excessive URL's and not to be used words checked?

I'm not using any URL's, and I'm pretty sure no bad words used, not even a photo, yet it won't let me post any progress reports...:hammer:
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Okay progress report. All paint gone via a visit to the stripper, she took it all off.
Followed by the evil plastic stripper wheel of death, to remove the rust.

Note: it also does a great job on removing fingernails.:scared:
Caught one and it snapped about 3/4 of the nail off. Of course it was the one that had finally grown back from a year ago when I nailed it with a prop.

Some nasty words, and a lot of blood later, (I'm on blood thinners) and I'm back at it.

All except the forks have been primed and sanded, ready for paint. Even got all the dings out of the fenders.

I'm gaining ground on the forks, got them to expand another 1/2" with just PB Blaster.

Picked up all new mounting hardware. Some of the old stuff I just didn't trust after getting all the rust off. Especially the fork clamp bolts. They looked like hour glasses when cleaned up. Probably would have snapped trying to tighten them.

Lastly was a real joy getting the old tires off. Dry rotted rubber does not like to stretch. But I succeeded. Even managed to not damage the tubes, which look good and hold air. Wheels have been through the same treatments, and sit primed and sanded.

Colors? Thinking a bright medium blue metallic. With white stripes on the fenders, and wheel spokes.
Will do, on the photos.

Question, was thinking of using a piece of an old inner tube to act as a vibration damper, between the engine and mount plate?
Cut out a section the size of the engine foot print, and have holes for the bolts to go through. Might help with some vibes, and be thin enough to not have the engine tilting around under torque.
Alright, close your eyes kiddies, naked parts shown.:scared:

And have emptied the wallet this week. OldMiniBikes is getting a lot of it. Clutch/chain, foot peg covers, switches, cables, bearings and such.
Tires from local dealer, and Harbor Freight just loves me.

My employer is quite happy too, hardware, primer, chemicals, battery, light, and paint.

Lord, it's like building another race car.


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Hey was picking my order at OldMiniBikes, and wanted a combo on/off and kill button for the handle bar.

Found this one, no info other then it's a two position with kill switch. Don't want to guess on a part, and Victoria @ OldMiniBikes doesn't know.

Anyone familiar with this and would it work for what I want? Would be running a pair of led lamps, so amp draw would be minimal.
Nobody? Oh well, I'll order it and see what I get.

Anywho, picked up the new engine today. And it's a Hemi!
It's sitting outside breaking in, and hopefully driving the neighbor crazy. Gave it a pull, switch off, to get some oil spread around, turned on the switch and choke, and she fired on the first pull. Seems to be running really smooth, was expecting it to dance all over the place.



Well-Known Member
That Pred is a lot of motor for that bike...and without real brakes it will be handful! The rubber isolator will do nothing...skip that part! That switch will work fine for you! I built one for the wife...she's never ridden it! Sorry to hi-jack

...and the rear brake on mine is more for looks than anything....does not work for :censure:
^^^^CarPlay is right...I posted earlier in your project the Pred is going to be way too much for this bike. Your rear sprocket is 78 or 80 teeth and the torque is going to flip you right off (In addition to the Bird, I did a Manco T-bird with a Honda GC160--with an 80 tooth sprocket-- and it was scary dangerous). With the gearing you're going to have--about 7.5 to 1 at the sprocket, you'll hit max speed nearly instantly with VERY little throttle control--you'll have to feather it. The scrub brake is going to be at it's limit, too. I'm sure somebody can hook you up with a Tecumseh HS40 which will pull you just fine with that gearing.

Just friendly advice...:scooter: