Throttle linkage help

JohnnyTillotson

JohnnyTillotson

#1
#1
I am going to use this old Tecumseh on this bike (dubbed the Flying Grapefruit by my daughter)but its got the other kind of gov linkage in place for when it had the updraft Tillotson carb. Just wondering if anyone has converted this set up to the regular one. Can I just take it all out and put the long gov lever on? How should I do that?






I would like to use this black throttle bracket with a long neck gov lever.

 
KustomKartKid

KustomKartKid

Administrator
#3
#3
I've never seen a wind vane governor in a Tecumseh. That lever is connected to the governor.... it's a fly-weight governor driven by the camshaft inside. Without seeing it in person I can't say for sure but it looks like you might be able to re-position that arm so it points at 12 o'clock and hook it up using the conventional linkage. Not sure because the hole and the end of the shaft are usually squared or "D" shaped.
 
JohnnyTillotson

JohnnyTillotson

#4
#4
KustomKartKid said:
I've never seen a wind vane governor in a Tecumseh. That lever is connected to the governor.... it's a fly-weight governor driven by the camshaft inside. Without seeing it in person I can't say for sure but it looks like you might be able to re-position that arm so it points at 12 o'clock and hook it up using the conventional linkage. Not sure because the hole and the end of the shaft are usually squared or "D" shaped.
Click to expand...
Correct. Evidence I had though pointed to a missing air vane gov when I found a long piece of linkage leading behind the blower housing and connected to nothing. But I got a chance to look up the parts diagram to the H35P 2404 and there is a spool in there. Part 107.



So should I take thick spring off the lever and turn it straight up and put a regular Size lever on and go on with my lifeM
 
KustomKartKid

KustomKartKid

Administrator
#5
#5
JohnnyTillotson said:
So should I take thick spring off the lever and turn it straight up and put a regular Size lever on and go on with my lifeM
Click to expand...
That's what I would try except the rod sticking out of the block may have a flat or crimp on the end that is 90* from what you need. The little bolt clamps it to the flat to keep it locked in position. The actuating rod or whatever it's called may be different.

Better zoom in on the micro-fiche and check the Lauson part number vs the Tecumseh ....:detective:
 
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KustomKartKid

KustomKartKid

Administrator
#6
#6
The other thing you could try is leave the lower clamp portion the way it is...swap to the longer linkage arm...and rotate it to the 12 o clock position. If you play around with it you might get it to work although it will swing in a different arc :shrug:
 
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Stangrcr1

Stangrcr1

New Member
#7
#7
Same conversion I did on my H35. Swap to the longer governor arm, align it so it points 12 o'clock. Spring from the throttle goes to the holes centered on the long governor arm, then a short link from the top of the long gov arm to the carb butterfly.
 
JohnnyTillotson

JohnnyTillotson

#10
#10
KustomKartKid said:
what you need. The little bolt clamps it to the flat to keep it locked in position. The actuating rod or whatever it's called may be different.
Better zoom in on the micro-fiche and check the Lauson
Click to expand...
Do you mean the part number of the pin that comes out of the block? Yeah because im wondering if it will rotate enough to get the lever straight up. I feel like theres usually not that kind of play in that pin. I guess the other option is putting the Tillotson E7A back on and trying to hook the throttle to it the way it was meant to be. I put the Tecumseh carb on to make the throttle hook up easier. Ha!
 
KustomKartKid

KustomKartKid

Administrator
#11
#11
JohnnyTillotson said:
Ok great. So i should be able to rotate that pin straightup and mount the longer gov lever?
Click to expand...
NO you cannot just rotate that pin...that is the end of the governor. The flats are clocked 90* from what you need. You could try to leave the clamp in the position it's in.... install the longer arm..and rotate the arm only so it points at 12 o'clock. But it will swing in a different arc. The only other thing that might work is to get a jewelers file and file a horizontal slot in the red clamp that will allow you to install it in the 12 o'clock position...then swap the arm.

Or you could try swappping in the governor actuator lever from a later motor....but I'm not sure it would be a direct swap you'd have to look at it. This would be the "correct" way to fix it.
 
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JohnnyTillotson

JohnnyTillotson

#12
#12
KustomKartKid said:
NO you cannot just rotate that pin...that is the end of the governor. The flats are clocked 90* from what you need. You could try to leave the clamp in the position it's in.... install the longer arm..and rotate the arm only so it points at 12 o'clock. But it will swing in a different arc. The only other thing that might work is to get a jewelers file and file a horizontal slot in the red clamp that will allow you to install it in the 12 o'clock position...then swap the arm.

Or you could try swappping in the governor actuator lever from a later motor....but I'm not sure it would be a direct swap you'd have to look at it. This would be the "correct" way to fix it.
Click to expand...
I dont understand then how stranger1 got his pin that way then He said he did the exact same conversion. Thats why i put em side by side. I guess his motor didnt start from the same point as mine. This is a 1960 Lausen.

I think im going to go with what u said about filing a horizontal notch into a new long lever. Then use wire insteag if c. the only way that
 
JohnnyTillotson

JohnnyTillotson

#14
#14
The gov pin did indeed turn all the way straight up. Since im going to set up all linkages with z bended wire to over ride it and not springs, it shouldnt matter which directon is governed and which is not right?
 
JohnnyTillotson

JohnnyTillotson

#17
#17
KustomKartKid said:
Take a video of it running and governing...I don't think it can possibly function like that.

But I have been wrong before..:shrug:
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No that's just it, It don't care if it governs. I just wanted to use it as a means for linkage. I will replace the bottom linkage from spring to wire to make sure of it. As long as you don't use springs at any point, you will override the govenor right?
 
Stangrcr1

Stangrcr1

New Member
#18
#18
Mine had the crosspin vertical to start with. Later motor. Yours will probably not work correctly without the pressure of the governor. That is what closes the throttle.

In fact, if your governor is still in there, it may come apart when running without the lever against it. Better to turn it back where it was and file a cross in the clamp to hold it as described by KKK.
 
JohnnyTillotson

JohnnyTillotson

#19
#19
Stangrcr1 said:
Mine had the crosspin vertical to start with. Later motor. Yours will probably not work correctly without the pressure of the governor. That is what closes the throttle.

In fact, if your governor is still in there, it may come apart when running without the lever against it. Better to turn it back where it was and file a cross in the clamp to hold it as described by KKK.
Click to expand...
Having trouble visualizing why there wouldn't be pressure against it because it is turned straight up. Isnt this way just forcing it not to effect the carb throttle plate and will still be spinning as it usually does inside the engine? I was thinking of doing what KKK said with turning just the arm up 90 degrees snd leaving the pin horizontal. That still gives plenty of height to use with the tecumseh carb.
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#20
#20
Here's what happens internally if you rotate the gov 90 degree's

standard setup


When you rotate it 90 degree's


Now there is still clearance here.......but not much, and thats just checking the cam, not the crankshaft/connecting rod. And this is also a 1970 block, I dont know if they used fat cam lobes and short lifters on a 1962 or even if the arm possibly has a different bend or flare to it internally.

KK mentioned this, simply loosen the bolt holding the arm and rotate IT 90 degrees not the shaft. you can set it wherever you want so you can still adjust it so its justout of the way of the flyweight if you dont like to be governed, but still in a pretty safe zone internally clearance wise and enough that if the gear was to come apart somehow that arm is still going to prevent it from riding off the shaft.




With all those thousands of engines you have, you should probably pull one apart and see "how it works" :laugh:
 
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