Tilliston Hemi STUD SNAPPED IN BLOCK

Colemanman

Colemanman

Member
#1
#1
Guys i need your help. I have a tillitson 212 hemi i bought early this summer. I dont frequently change exhausts and i didnt over torque the nuts on the studs. I use a torque wrench. i went to remove the header and put on the stock muffler for noise reasons. So i tightened it up, and I felt it give way and i knew exactly whag happened. The fuckin stud snapped in the block just under level with the block. I need advice on the best course of action to solve this.

Thanks to the people who do reply
 

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desert rat

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
Use a center punch to make sure you are drilling in the hart of the stud. Then use LEFT hand drills starting with 1/8 inch to drill it out. Make sure to use a good cutting oil as the stud will be brittle. If you are living right the bit will bite on the third step up and unscrew on it's own if not you will now need to use an easy out. The best ones to use are strait cut. You can get the drills and easy outs as a set. Tap the easy out in the hole only enough to "bite" into the stud and try to unscrew it. If it's still not working heat the area with propane torch enough to melt a kids crayola crayon All colors work the same haha. be libral with the crayon. while it is still warm tap the easy out back in and turn it out. Replace both studs while you are at it , the other one will go soon. Good luck.
 
SAS289

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#4
#4
If you are drilling into the stud you should find out the maximum depth to drill. You can get the idea by removing the other stud. Then wrap tape around the drill bit for reference.

Most difficult thing for me was drilling the hole dead center. Start with small bits then go larger. If the easy out isn't working drill as large as you can without ruining the threads. This weakens what is left of the stud or bolt.

Heat never worked for me. It's not like steel where you can heat it red hot. I had a few that I had to drill out and tap for a heli-coil. Most of what I did was trying to save transmission cases.
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#6
#6
Colemanman said:
Guys i need your help. I have a tillitson 212 hemi i bought early this summer. I dont frequently change exhausts and i didnt over torque the nuts on the studs. I use a torque wrench. i went to remove the header and put on the stock muffler for noise reasons. So i tightened it up, and I felt it give way and i knew exactly whag happened. The fuckin stud snapped in the block just under level with the block. I need advice on the best course of action to solve this.

Thanks to the people who do reply
Click to expand...
Weld a washer to the stud by welding through the hole in the washer. Don't use a cheesy Chinese washer that is thin. Use an SAE washer that is thick and will hold the weld. Once you have the hole in the washer filled weld a nut to the washer and then screw the stud out after it cools. Welding heat will make the stud expand. When it cools and shrinks it will free itself from the threads and should screw out with minimal effort.

https://www.jtech.org/bolt-extraction-from-a-cylinder-head-using-a-mig-welder/
 
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mustangfrank

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
Colemanman said:
Guys i need your help. I have a tillitson 212 hemi i bought early this summer. I dont frequently change exhausts and i didnt over torque the nuts on the studs. I use a torque wrench. i went to remove the header and put on the stock muffler for noise reasons. So i tightened it up, and I felt it give way and i knew exactly whag happened. The fuckin stud snapped in the block just under level with the block. I need advice on the best course of action to solve this.

Thanks to the people who do reply
Click to expand...
Good luck, one of the most frustrating things to deal with EVER. When you get it fixed check your torque wrench for proper operation/get it calibrated or tested if possible. I had a good quality 80s Craftsman inch pound clicker torque wrench give me fits snapping trans pan bolts before I figured out the wobble head/spring/ball bearing had dried out and was essentially turning it into a 10" solid breaker bar at medium to low settings. Luckily my AF base had a torque wrench "dyno" at the time, don't know where to look for civilian use though.
 
Colemanman

Colemanman

Member
#8
#8
Thank you guys for the replys and advice. Ill have to pick up some ez outs soon and see if i can get someone witth experience to help me out. Ive never used a easy out before, so definitely i do not wanna mess it up. I will be replacing both studs. I was told on a fb minibike group that these studs are grade 5 and not grade 8, is this true? Could you use bolts instead of studs if their high quality or would they wear out the threads more from having to come off when changing exhaust?
I was running a fairly long headsr but will not be after this lol

Thanks to all of you
 
Colemanman

Colemanman

Member
#9
#9
mustangfrank said:
Good luck, one of the most frustrating things to deal with EVER. When you get it fixed check your torque wrench for proper operation/get it calibrated or tested if possible. I had a good quality 80s Craftsman inch pound clicker torque wrench give me fits snapping trans pan bolts before I figured out the wobble head/spring/ball bearing had dried out and was essentially turning it into a 10" solid breaker bar at medium to low settings. Luckily my AF base had a torque wrench "dyno" at the time, don't know where to look for civilian use though.
Click to expand...
What do you torque your studs to? I believe the spec was 17 ft lbs if i I remember correctly.
 
Colemanman

Colemanman

Member
#12
#12
To be honest i have no idea which one would be a better option. Id think studs bc you wouldnt remove the stud every time to change exhaust and the bolt wouldnt go in and out keeping the aluminum threads in good shaps. What do guys think i should go with?
 
Colemanman

Colemanman

Member
#13
#13
So I found the solution to my problems well half of them lol, im putting my 420cc Hemi predator on it witch a jackshaft. Put a different air cleaner and exhaust on it as well as removing the gas tank. It barley fits. I have a extra engine plate im going to weld it in to fit the big block bolt pattern it will raise the motor about a inch. Which is needed because the valve cover hits the rear fender. Even a 1/2 inch would remedy that. Im going to gear it for the same top speed as the tillitson 212 and cvt setup, which was 53mph, but in will be able to get there alot faster. Im going to be using a clutch and jackshaft so i dont have to worry about belts and so I get pretty much 100% power transfer.
 
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