Torque converter too much torque
I will be posting pictures of the driven today. But can anyone tell me what belt to buy with this description? The link is also at the bottom, thanks
Go Kart Torque Converter, #40/41 or #35 Gear included. Driver Unit is 3/4" Bore- Replaces TAV 2 and Manco 5957, Comet 219552, Yerf Dog Q43201W, for 3/4" Belt Asymmetrical Type, 1200 to 3100 rpm engagement. 8hp max. Very nice quality as pictured. Driven Unit is 5/8" Bore- Replaces TORQ-A-VERTER (TAV) 30 Series and Manco 5958, Comet 219456, 217610A, for 3/4" Belt Asymmetrical Type, 1200 to 3100 rpm engagement. 8hp max. Jackshaft is 5/8" X 6-1/2" with step to 17mm, 2-1/2" from end, 3/16" Key, Bolts, Nut, Spacer, washers, Snap Ring, #40/41 or #35 Gear included, get it right, either 3/8" spacing or 1/2" center to center on the chain links. As with all my auctions items are also for sale locally and subject to prior sale.Go Kart Torque Converter, #40/41 or #35 Gear included. Driver Unit is 3/4" Bore- Replaces TAV 2 and Manco 5957, Comet 219552, Yerf Dog Q43201W, for 3/4" Belt Asymmetrical Type, 1200 to 3100 rpm engagement. 8hp max. Very nice quality as pictured. Driven Unit is 5/8" Bore- Replaces TORQ-A-VERTER (TAV) 30 Series and Manco 5958, Comet 219456, 217610A, for 3/4" Belt Asymmetrical Type, 1200 to 3100 rpm engagement. 8hp max. Jackshaft is 5/8" X 6-1/2" with step to 17mm, 2-1/2" from end, 3/16" Key, Bolts, Nut, Spacer, washers, Snap Ring, #40/41 or #35 Gear included, get it right, either 3/8" spacing or 1/2" center to center on the chain links. As with all my auctions items are also for sale locally and subject to prior sale.
Torque Converter Kit CVT 3 4" for 40 41 or 35 Gear No Returns See Listing | eBay
Go Kart Torque Converter, #40/41 or #35 Gear included. Driver Unit is 3/4" Bore- Replaces TAV 2 and Manco 5957, Comet 219552, Yerf Dog Q43201W, for 3/4" Belt Asymmetrical Type, 1200 to 3100 rpm engagement. 8hp max. Very nice quality as pictured. Driven Unit is 5/8" Bore- Replaces TORQ-A-VERTER (TAV) 30 Series and Manco 5958, Comet 219456, 217610A, for 3/4" Belt Asymmetrical Type, 1200 to 3100 rpm engagement. 8hp max. Jackshaft is 5/8" X 6-1/2" with step to 17mm, 2-1/2" from end, 3/16" Key, Bolts, Nut, Spacer, washers, Snap Ring, #40/41 or #35 Gear included, get it right, either 3/8" spacing or 1/2" center to center on the chain links. As with all my auctions items are also for sale locally and subject to prior sale.Go Kart Torque Converter, #40/41 or #35 Gear included. Driver Unit is 3/4" Bore- Replaces TAV 2 and Manco 5957, Comet 219552, Yerf Dog Q43201W, for 3/4" Belt Asymmetrical Type, 1200 to 3100 rpm engagement. 8hp max. Very nice quality as pictured. Driven Unit is 5/8" Bore- Replaces TORQ-A-VERTER (TAV) 30 Series and Manco 5958, Comet 219456, 217610A, for 3/4" Belt Asymmetrical Type, 1200 to 3100 rpm engagement. 8hp max. Jackshaft is 5/8" X 6-1/2" with step to 17mm, 2-1/2" from end, 3/16" Key, Bolts, Nut, Spacer, washers, Snap Ring, #40/41 or #35 Gear included, get it right, either 3/8" spacing or 1/2" center to center on the chain links. As with all my auctions items are also for sale locally and subject to prior sale.
Torque Converter Kit CVT 3 4" for 40 41 or 35 Gear No Returns See Listing | eBay
I would say its the cheap belt :doah: Get this one :thumbsup:
Comet Belt for 30 Series 203597a
Comet Belt for 30 Series 203597a
TAV2 Replacement Drive Belt: Go Kart Parts: Racing Karts: Engines: Frames: Tires: Tips: Kits: Torque
This one may work as well.
If your alignment is messed up and belt on wrong, the torque will grab like a SOB.
This one may work as well.
If your alignment is messed up and belt on wrong, the torque will grab like a SOB.
Yeah, ill post pictures of my alignment soon, the bike is at my friend house. Also, when I was putting on my belt, it seemed tough, some videos ive watched people have just slid them on no effort. Here is an example, go to 4:50 minutes...
That's how hard it was to put on the belt. Also, how can you tell which side of the belt faces the engine? Both sides of my belt looked the same and felt the same, and didn't indicate which side to put up. Lastly, my driven pully moves on the shaft, im not sure if anyone knows why this is, but it doesnt seem right! Ill post a picture of this as well, thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGfbGCZTqtU
That's how hard it was to put on the belt. Also, how can you tell which side of the belt faces the engine? Both sides of my belt looked the same and felt the same, and didn't indicate which side to put up. Lastly, my driven pully moves on the shaft, im not sure if anyone knows why this is, but it doesnt seem right! Ill post a picture of this as well, thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGfbGCZTqtU
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I started working on mine last night.http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/doodlebug-minibikes/106894-doodle-devil-7-driven.html
Any TC I've put a belt on, loop it over the front, half loop it on the back, and roll the bike backwards and the belt pops on. Reverse to take it off. Takes all of 5 seconds with no grunting or effort.
If your belt is the same on both sides you have the wrong belt. Belt should be like this |_/ Flat on one side angled on the other. The flat side goes towards the motor.
If your belt is the same on both sides you have the wrong belt. Belt should be like this |_/ Flat on one side angled on the other. The flat side goes towards the motor.
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