adjustable jet carb for Tecumseh H35
- Thread starter chazdaddy
- Start date
- Tags adjustable carb tecumseh
Hello george3,
Thanks, for comment. Yes, appears to be aftermarket, Tecumseh OEM costs a lot more $'s and not sure it is any better.
I looked at/ researched the OEM carb that came off my H35 for hours. I finally figured out how the idle circuit gets gas and can see why these carbs have problems. There are a lot of posts about people having trouble getting their engine to idle.
There is a very small hole (approx .010") that goes from (a) where the main jet screws into, to (b) the drilled and plugged hole for the idle jet (hole where the rod rattles). It is very difficult the clear out this hole if it is clogged. Maybe the purpose of the rod that rattles is to force gas through this hole and help clear it, if you can get it to rattle. Problem is the ball plugs that could allow access are not supposed to be removed. As it is, you probably can't see this hole anyway if it at the bottom of a thread that holds the main jet, which it appears to be the case on my carb. I think I will get some carb cleaner and soak this carb for a month, then try again.
Appears OLDMINIBIKES sells aftermarket carb too.
I am not saying you are wrong, just saying not sure OEM is better at this point, unless you want an exact replica.
Thanks, for comment. Yes, appears to be aftermarket, Tecumseh OEM costs a lot more $'s and not sure it is any better.
I looked at/ researched the OEM carb that came off my H35 for hours. I finally figured out how the idle circuit gets gas and can see why these carbs have problems. There are a lot of posts about people having trouble getting their engine to idle.
There is a very small hole (approx .010") that goes from (a) where the main jet screws into, to (b) the drilled and plugged hole for the idle jet (hole where the rod rattles). It is very difficult the clear out this hole if it is clogged. Maybe the purpose of the rod that rattles is to force gas through this hole and help clear it, if you can get it to rattle. Problem is the ball plugs that could allow access are not supposed to be removed. As it is, you probably can't see this hole anyway if it at the bottom of a thread that holds the main jet, which it appears to be the case on my carb. I think I will get some carb cleaner and soak this carb for a month, then try again.
Appears OLDMINIBIKES sells aftermarket carb too.
I am not saying you are wrong, just saying not sure OEM is better at this point, unless you want an exact replica.
You guys use tag wire too? :laugh: I thought that was just me.. :lol:
For all the kids out there that don't have tag wire.. The steel wire in a twisty tie on a bread wrapper is about the same stuff.. Melt or peal the plastic coating off and clean the wire up.. :thumbsup:
Yes I have one of the newer style carbs on my Rupp.. For SOME reason... When it's cold, you GOTTA choke it and pull from two to more like 5 or 6 times, before it fires.. It runs excellent once it's going.. And if it's warm it takes right off and idles low with no help on the first pull.. :shrug:
Probably float level or something... But then again it was on my other Rupp engine in a slanted frame and it ran the exact same way so probably not float level.. :laugh: I don't know.. :laugh: It was also found at the scrap yard, sold by a school class room we got in town that teaches kids how to work on small engines.. It was probably bought new, then rebuilt 450 times, but never ran.. :laugh:
I dunno.. it runs good.. :shrug:
I'm tech carb guy around here.. I buy them by the hundreds from the junkyard to save them from certain and permanent death, because I like them..
I usually offer em up at 25 bucks for great used actual Tec / Lauson carb.... :thumbsup: Iffin ya do it on Evilbay, they start at 25 and end up 45 or 55.. :laugh: But thats one less carb I have to offer to OldMiniBikes... And who the hell wants to support Evilbays Evil ways?
For all the kids out there that don't have tag wire.. The steel wire in a twisty tie on a bread wrapper is about the same stuff.. Melt or peal the plastic coating off and clean the wire up.. :thumbsup:
Yes I have one of the newer style carbs on my Rupp.. For SOME reason... When it's cold, you GOTTA choke it and pull from two to more like 5 or 6 times, before it fires..
It runs excellent once it's going.. And if it's warm it takes right off and idles low with no help on the first pull.. :shrug:Probably float level or something... But then again it was on my other Rupp engine in a slanted frame and it ran the exact same way so probably not float level.. :laugh: I don't know.. :laugh: It was also found at the scrap yard, sold by a school class room we got in town that teaches kids how to work on small engines.. It was probably bought new, then rebuilt 450 times, but never ran.. :laugh:
I dunno.. it runs good.. :shrug:
I'm tech carb guy around here.. I buy them by the hundreds from the junkyard to save them from certain and permanent death, because I like them..
I usually offer em up at 25 bucks for great used actual Tec / Lauson carb.... :thumbsup: Iffin ya do it on Evilbay, they start at 25 and end up 45 or 55.. :laugh: But thats one less carb I have to offer to OldMiniBikes... And who the hell wants to support Evilbays Evil ways?
Carb replacement
I have sent you several P.M.'S about your need to replace your stock carb. The one I told you that I have is the one that will work for your project! I will offer it to you again, and will sell it to someone that could use it. You will spend more money to buy the same carb that I offered you. I will be posting most of my extra frames and parts soon, I will get pics as soon as I can. Thanks,Owen
I have sent you several P.M.'S about your need to replace your stock carb. The one I told you that I have is the one that will work for your project! I will offer it to you again, and will sell it to someone that could use it. You will spend more money to buy the same carb that I offered you. I will be posting most of my extra frames and parts soon, I will get pics as soon as I can. Thanks,Owen
Yeahhhh that rattle thing needs to be omitted from the forum... :hammer: I have a briggs and Stratton 5 horse that doesn't squeal when ya kick it either, but it runs like a bitch.. :shrug:
The rattle is just a little tube that helps meter overall fuel flow.. Hell some of em don't even have it...
Rattle = zero, NO rattle = zero.. :shrug:
NEW non adjustable carb pretty well always = trash though...
Your BEST bet would be find a good deal on a KNOWN TO BE A RUNNER used original adjustable carb... And ta hell with the nonsense.. :laugh: Keep the junk carb for spare parts (float, bowl, gasket, throttle shaft, butterfly)
The rattle is just a little tube that helps meter overall fuel flow.. Hell some of em don't even have it...
Rattle = zero, NO rattle = zero.. :shrug:
NEW non adjustable carb pretty well always = trash though...
Your BEST bet would be find a good deal on a KNOWN TO BE A RUNNER used original adjustable carb... And ta hell with the nonsense.. :laugh: Keep the junk carb for spare parts (float, bowl, gasket, throttle shaft, butterfly)
metal man, carb is drilled to the side of and parallel to the main jet and plugged with ball. I am thinking it should rattle. There is no hole drilled above idle jet, the plug is in the threaded hole where the idle jet goes.
I have a Tecumseh carb off HS50 that didn't run or rattle until I cleaned it. Now it rattles, and runs better, although needs some more work. I think there is something to rattle thing.
Does anyone know anything about the idle jet plug? I guess I will try to take it out, appears this carb is junk anyway. :shrug:
I have a Tecumseh carb off HS50 that didn't run or rattle until I cleaned it. Now it rattles, and runs better, although needs some more work. I think there is something to rattle thing.
Does anyone know anything about the idle jet plug? I guess I will try to take it out, appears this carb is junk anyway. :shrug:
