briggs 5 horse ?

trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#1
#1
got this engine off a job site and realy have no clue . has been spray bombed a couple times originaly orange by the looks of it recoil is shot but i do not even know where to start with this because i can not find any numbers on it i am sure someone here knows what it is and if it is worth fixing or if it just a boat anchor:thumbsup:
thanks in advance
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#3
#3
sorry for the bad pics :doah:these are a little better. can I use another cover / recoil on this thing if so where do I find one ? does any one have a carb for it laying around ? think that is all I need to get it up and running:shrug:
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#5
#5
after tearing this down a little bit carb is good .took it all apart cleaned and put back together tank is nasty though needs good cleaning. so all I am going to need is a cover/recoil anybody have one:shrug:
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#8
#8
ok so it runs for sure got it started after cleaning carb and tank real well. starts right up:thumbsup:but now i need some help noticed when i took the carb off the tank the long pick up tube was in the tank not on the carb so when i put it back together seemed to be nice and tight and ran fine but then when i took it apart again it was loose again is there some kind of trick to this :shrug:
 
The Restore Kid

The Restore Kid

New Member
#9
#9
They just press fit in.. if it doesn't like to stay like it should you can like crunch the tube slightly out of round, so it's all pinched back to round in the hole and it fits tight..

The shroud looks like a 4 horse to me.. The numbers are on the cover..

MODEL 10xxxxx is 4 horse MODEL 13xxxx is 5 horse..

there should also be a 10 or 13 cast into the head and block, which tells ya cubic inches.. The block is marked in the valve pocket, and sometimes on the outside of the jug like in around the ports, head is in the corner like muffler area, in between the first and second cooling fins..
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#10
#10
thank you restore kid that's why five horse ? I was asking not saying it was :thumbsup:but I will look for #s once I get the four coats of paint off:laugh:
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#11
#11
hey restore kid you and morta are right about the hp has a 10 in between the fins but no numbers on the cover . should I crimp the tube before I put it in or while it is in the hole to keep it from falling out :shrug: thanks for the help :thumbsup: I am not to familiar with these briggs motors
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#12
#12
thank you got the tube to stay but now I have a problem put it all back together and would not start pour gas in the carb starts right up take the tank back off no gas in upper chamber tubes are both clear checked with carb cleaner :thumbsup:put gas in upper chamber put back together runs like a champ what the:censure: please some one give me a short explanation of how this works or a link
 
WrenchDad

WrenchDad

Active Member
#14
#14
trinik7597 said:
thank you got the tube to stay but now I have a problem put it all back together and would not start pour gas in the carb starts right up take the tank back off no gas in upper chamber tubes are both clear checked with carb cleaner :thumbsup:put gas in upper chamber put back together runs like a champ what the:censure: please some one give me a short explanation of how this works or a link
Click to expand...
Unless I'm wrong The carb pulls fuel from the tank thru the long tube and dumps it into the little chamber and then is sucked up thru the little tube once you have fuel in the upper chamber it should continue to run especially if you had the tubes cleared, (with no fuel in the little chamber it cant create suction thru the big tube)filling the little chamber is like priming it.

Also if your recoil just has a broken spring you can buy new ones for like 5-10 bucks and the install instructions are right on the package ,it's easy to do.

keep us posted.
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#15
#15
no I did not replace the diaphragm but it seemed to be In good shape no rips or tears . what tines are we talking about think the problem is its not picking up fuel from the long tube not real familiar with these carbs:doah: thanks mb how was jamaica:thumbsup:
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#16
#16
thanks wrenchdad that's what I thought too so maybe I do not have a problem once I put some fuel in the upper tank it ran fine but had to shut it down quick since I moved all my stuff from the garage to the basement for winter no heat in the garage:doah:
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#18
#18
the cover where the recoil spring attaches the hole where it locks in is all messed up and i do not really like the extra piece of trim on the cover but its cool think another member has one for me :thumbsup: really liking the flat heads lately figured this one would be good to learn on:laugh:
 
WrenchDad

WrenchDad

Active Member
#19
#19
OK I understand now, If the hole is jacked up that's a little harder to fix but not impossible. A lot of the snow blower engines (as mentioned by another member) had those shields on them to keep snow out of the recoil. My Big block Tec from a snow blower had one but it was a bolt on(slid in under the recoil)
 
The Restore Kid

The Restore Kid

New Member
#20
#20
Yes that thing is a shield.. theres a just a few spot welds holding it on..

If it's not pulling fuel, the diaphragm could be bad.. but the

VERY IMPORTANT part is

you gotta make sure that diaphragm cover is dead nuts perfectly flat (which they never are) and make sure the carb body is all clean and level rite there, because if it's not all perfect, it'll leak air and not work...

http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/b...s/59393-tech-trueing-your-diaphram-cover.html
 
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