Briggs and Stratton 2hp No Spark

#1
Minibikers

It sat for one year and started before that.

It's a Model 61200.

How do you determine whether there are points under the flywheel?

There's a kill switch wire running into general area.

Have shroud off. Will track down kill switch wire.

Why is kill switch wire bare no insulation for last foot?

It worked like that before.

Thanks!
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#3
I don't think any of the 2HP had Magnetron coils...I believe they all had points. Pull the flywheel and they will be under the round cover!
 
#4
Thank you for the responses.

Kill wire is okay. It's silver colored plastic insulation over copper wire.

It does lead behind flywheel.

There's a wire from coil going down that way so it does look

like it has points.

My Harbor freight puller is bolt type not jaws so I'm kind of

stuck for now removing flywheel.

Will sand bottom of coil and spot on flywheel and reset gap.

Thanks
 
#5
You do not need a flywheel puller. Do a Google Custom Search (top of this page) and enter the search words "Removing Briggs Flywheel". You will see lots of good techniques used by our members. Then, pull that flywheel and get in there and check (or better yet REPLACE) those points!
Michael
 
#9
Minibikers

What's under the aluminum part that the 5 ball bearings fell out of?

Thanks
Ruh Roh. Scooby says, "You broke the starter clutch and it'll cost $20 for a new one."

A Mini-biker says, "Clamp the engine to your work bench. There are two tabs which held screws to secure the screen to the starter clutch. Use a cold chisel with a hammer, secure the flywheel in place and gently tap the two tabs to untighten the broken starter clutch (counter clockwise). The clutch will eventually spin off. Underneath you should find a Bellville washer (it's cupped and should face down, mark the visible side with a magic marker). Tap the end of the crankshaft with a hard mallet or with a block of wood and a ball peen hammer (do not damage the crankshaft end). The flywheel should break free, and then you can get to the points."
 
#11
Doctor

I'll see about posting a picture.

3 Piece Three-Jaw Puller Set

Measured across the flywheel and it's 5 3/4".

Pullers go up to 6" so that ought to work.

Then I'll be good with hammering on end of puller main bolt while it's

under tension.

Thanks!

You shouldn't need the puller; just be careful when tapping the crank. It'll break free. Some of those old flywheels get brittle with age. Handle with care as a puller could have unintended consequences.
 
#15
There's a flywheel take off tool that cost 5$ slide it on the crank tap the end off tool couple times backs flywheel off then you should have the holder an wrench to put back on an torque ..if you need an another starter clutch pm I got one ...
 
#16
Yes, the old-old-old cast iron flywheels can get brittle. A wheel puller will put tension on the flywheel in a direction it was not intended to receive. Constant heating and cooling of cast iron can change its metallurgical properties leading to brittleness. Never seen a flywheel split in half? Way back when I was in college, we used to melt them down and do new castings.
 
#17
Minibikers

There were 6 not 5 ball bearings in that flange on crankshaft before the flywheel.

Found #6 stuck in flange.

It's a good idea to have pullers around to get to points anytime in the future.

Will report about pulling flywheel and how points look.

Have a nice day!
 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#19
Just to reiterate, Do Not hit the end of the crank with a hammer.
It causes bad, bad things.
Not that I would know or nothing.
 
#20
I must admit...after close to 60 years of servicing small engines, I've never seen it or heard of it. I do, however, agree that an abused flywheel will break.
Abso-tively agree about abused flywheels. A lot of the ones we had were missing fins and had been dropped or otherwise abused. Hidden blow holes in the casting didn't help either. My point for the original poster was NOT to use tools that were unnecessary and could lead to unintended consequences.
 
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