i just got three parts engines from a guy at work. one is complete and fires on spray. it is a 5hp briggs with a 3/4 shaft. what is differant to me is the carb setup. the carb is mounted to the tank with a tube feeding directly to the carb into the tank. straight pipe straight down from the carb that is part of the tank. i cant find any numbers on the motor except for it clearly says briggs 5hp. any ideas? im thinking i just scored a motor that will run with a little carb work. just gotta find a source for a carb kit for this odd ball design.
briggs...carb mounted to gas tank. wierd?
- Thread starter hoppy
- Start date
- Tags briggs...carb mounted tank. wierd?
here is the motor. cleaned the carb alittle and it actually "runs" now. however someone did some "welding" to the carb. i suspect this could potentially be part of the issue. tank has a pinhole leak in it at the bottom also. here are a few pictures of the setup.
is this a pulse line? if so that would be cool for a tilly that has an internal pump and needs it.if you look closely by the screw for the clamp for that hose you can see that is the area the carb must have been cracked and was welded in.
restore kid.......do you bolt those tech carbs right up to the block or do you have some kind of "Spacer" or tube?
i have three tilly HL's. Two are brand spanking new. Can any of these be used? HL263A,HL108A,HL285A? two appear to have pulse fittings and one just has the one fuel inlet.
is this a pulse line? if so that would be cool for a tilly that has an internal pump and needs it.if you look closely by the screw for the clamp for that hose you can see that is the area the carb must have been cracked and was welded in.
restore kid.......do you bolt those tech carbs right up to the block or do you have some kind of "Spacer" or tube?
i have three tilly HL's. Two are brand spanking new. Can any of these be used? HL263A,HL108A,HL285A? two appear to have pulse fittings and one just has the one fuel inlet.
HOLY :censure:!!!!!!! what are the model numbers off from that engine? :drool: That thing has ALL the makings to be a dual bearing engine.. :drool: Is the a sideways J on the back side of the motor in the valve keeper area? :drool: Theres a HELLA GOOD CHANCE thats a dual bearing motor.. :drool:
Those are at least the best Pulsejet carbs they ever made.. :laugh: Whatever good that is.. :laugh: They run pretty good though.. :shrug:
If theres pin holes rusted in the tank and just by looking at it I'd say it's sat outside neglected for a while and needs a complete carb going through.. Tank obviously needs fixed...
From the looks of it I would tear the head off and every thing off and check every thing out, clean everything up, reasemble iit all like it's supposed to be...
Then it will run.. :thumbsup: I did two of them this morning that looked WAY worse than that one.. One I had to beat the piston loose with a 2X4 and a hammer.. :laugh:
Those are at least the best Pulsejet carbs they ever made.. :laugh: Whatever good that is.. :laugh: They run pretty good though.. :shrug:
If theres pin holes rusted in the tank and just by looking at it I'd say it's sat outside neglected for a while and needs a complete carb going through.. Tank obviously needs fixed...
From the looks of it I would tear the head off and every thing off and check every thing out, clean everything up, reasemble iit all like it's supposed to be...
Then it will run.. :thumbsup: I did two of them this morning that looked WAY worse than that one.. One I had to beat the piston loose with a 2X4 and a hammer.. :laugh:
im going out to the shop now to see if i can find any numbers. the only numbers i think i saw were stamped into the flywheel cover. ill look more closely. im assuming from your reaction that the dual bearing briggs are good motors. i recently just ordered a 7hp Kohler comand pro that has dual bearings. cant wait until it arrives. that is for another project however. ill get the numbers back to you asap.
as for the techy carbs on the briggs motors.....what are you running between the carb and block? tube? or just gasket and bolt up and go?
i have a few H60's. so i have those as an option. id like to throw a tilly on it though as im used to those from sleds i have also.
thanks for the help man i appreciate it. just trying to make heads from tails with this little briggs. the only other machine i own that has briggs is a tiller and thats almost brand new and runs like a top so i have yet to really mess with a briggs.
as for the techy carbs on the briggs motors.....what are you running between the carb and block? tube? or just gasket and bolt up and go?
i have a few H60's. so i have those as an option. id like to throw a tilly on it though as im used to those from sleds i have also.
thanks for the help man i appreciate it. just trying to make heads from tails with this little briggs. the only other machine i own that has briggs is a tiller and thats almost brand new and runs like a top so i have yet to really mess with a briggs.
Yeah they are just harder to find and worth a lot more because they are so much stronger and you can do more with them.. Most of the old Kohlers are dual bearing.. Just standard equipment.. :laugh: I use the Tecumseh H35 intake manifolds and ream the holes out some to line up right with the briggs..
alright after some further digging im convinced this pulsa-jet carb is el-junko.
the carb somehow got cracked on the tube side. someone prior to me decided some welding, and gasket sealer between the tank and gasket and the carb and gasket was the fix. i removed the carb from the engine and tank(P.I.T.A.) freeking linkage rods everywhere. cleaned the carb out good. What i also found was the needle is heavily pitted and looks like crap. the point is rounded off and the tip is just bad looking. that being said i put it all back together and back on the machine. she fires up real easy but still runs like a tird. spittering and spattering. seems to be alot of fuel blowing out also. not sure that crack was properly welded and sealed so could be sucking air. that needle isnt helping to. so what am i to do now?
I have a intake i can use off another briggs that had a walbro bowl carb on it.
carb is junk but intake is good. i have a few HL tillys and a few tech H60's.
From what ive been told both could work. My biggest concern with mounting up a new carb is what do i do with the governor linkage and such?
ditch the governor, bolt up a intake and new carb and just run a throttle cable and manual to cold start? the motor runs, its clean inside. problem is the carb. ideas or advise?
the carb somehow got cracked on the tube side. someone prior to me decided some welding, and gasket sealer between the tank and gasket and the carb and gasket was the fix. i removed the carb from the engine and tank(P.I.T.A.) freeking linkage rods everywhere. cleaned the carb out good. What i also found was the needle is heavily pitted and looks like crap. the point is rounded off and the tip is just bad looking. that being said i put it all back together and back on the machine. she fires up real easy but still runs like a tird. spittering and spattering. seems to be alot of fuel blowing out also. not sure that crack was properly welded and sealed so could be sucking air. that needle isnt helping to. so what am i to do now?
I have a intake i can use off another briggs that had a walbro bowl carb on it.
carb is junk but intake is good. i have a few HL tillys and a few tech H60's.
From what ive been told both could work. My biggest concern with mounting up a new carb is what do i do with the governor linkage and such?
ditch the governor, bolt up a intake and new carb and just run a throttle cable and manual to cold start? the motor runs, its clean inside. problem is the carb. ideas or advise?
hmy: You have the wrong cover.... 132232 is the Dual Bearing engines.. :drool: It should be either a ball bearing block or at VERY least a DU bushing in the front.. :drool: YES the already made to fit intake is exactly what you want.. The modern carb IS JUNK the day it was born, but you should be able to bolt on something FAR better...
Yeah I would pull the governor completely out of the engine.. BUT MAKE SURE to ad a billet conecting rod so you don't blow it up and ruin that block and crank... :hammer:
That will also allow ya to pull the crank and see whats holding it in place on the front journal... :drool: I say ball bearing.. :drool:
Briggs Dual Bearing - Steel Bore | eBay