Chain Setups for high performance setups

#1
I have a highly modified predator 212 non-hemi. It is on my PRC go kart. Whenever I drive it, if I accelerate the chain will break the master link off. I have checked on a stand and there is no resistance with the chain when rolling, so its not a bent sprocket. I am now about to just attach the chain without a master link and see if it's stronger that way. Also it is an RLV gold on black, or black on gold.
 
#2
I have a highly modified predator 212 non-hemi. It is on my PRC go kart. Whenever I drive it, if I accelerate the chain will break the master link off. I have checked on a stand and there is no resistance with the chain when rolling, so its not a bent sprocket. I am now about to just attach the chain without a master link and see if it's stronger that way. Also it is an RLV gold on black, or black on gold.
which way is the master link installed, have you tried installing it from the other end/direction?
 
#3
which way is the master link installed, have you tried installing it from the other end/direction?
maybe i should explain what im getting at, in case its not the problem...

if the master link is falling off and you have the open end of it pointed toward the rear sprocket, you may try turning it around where the closed end is toward the rear sprocket...

i did some research before putting the chain on the wifes kart and came across a thread with that info in it... seemed to work for the person in that case, sometimes it doesnt... i have it installed this way and have not had an issues as of yet...
 
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#4
maybe i should explain what im getting at, in case its not the problem... if the one on my wifes kart falls off, i will go to a chain without a master link... it has not fallen off as of yet, been over 50 mph at the track for hours of riding... not sure how much more modded your motor is, but this one has the typical upgrades (billet rod/flywheel, isky cam/springs, etc)...

if the master link is falling off and you have the open end of it pointed toward the rear sprocket, you may try turning it around where the closed end is toward the rear sprocket...

i did some research before putting the chain on the wifes kart and came across a thread with that info in it... seemed to work for the person in that case, sometimes it doesnt... i have it installed this way and have not had an issues as of yet...

Okay I have decided to just take the master link out, move my engine back farther and attach that chain with no master link. Better to be safe then sorry. I will be very proud of my engine if it can break this now! I have big valves, head work and a giant cam and carb so it is not the typical modded motor.:scared:
 
#5
Okay I have decided to just take the master link out, move my engine back farther and attach that chain with no master link. Better to be safe then sorry. I will be very proud of my engine if it can break this now! I have big valves, head work and a giant cam and carb so it is not the typical modded motor.:scared:
i wouldnt use a master link either and wont be on my mini bikes motor...
 
#7
It was my understanding that most of the racing kart folks didn't use master links. ?
made me think about that and double check the kart), in fact, i did use the chain that was already on the kart, and you are correct, there is no master link on it... the previous chain, is still on the mini bike project... so the info about it not falling off, doesnt apply! :anon.sml:
 
#8
I don't use master links. I have a standard kart chain (RLV) on my karts. I have one kart with two engines on it. The front engine makes 24hp, and the second makes a good 22hp (haven't dynod it with the current carb on it). The engines are hooked together with a chain, and a RLV chain connects them both to the sprocket.. No problems with the chain holding both engines.
 
#9
I don't use master links. I have a standard kart chain (RLV) on my karts. I have one kart with two engines on it. The front engine makes 24hp, and the second makes a good 22hp (haven't dynod it with the current carb on it). The engines are hooked together with a chain, and a RLV chain connects them both to the sprocket.. No problems with the chain holding both engines.
sounds awesome, how does it run?
 
#11
a master link SHOULD hold up.. Unless there is some kind of bind pushing the chain sideways, OR it was installed wrong..

Just like posted above, if the open end of the master link keeper is pointing forward, the link is about GUARANTEED TO FALL OFF... Just the chain pulling, will pop the keeper off..

Know what I mean? as the chain is rolling,,the CLOSED END of the keeper is first in line, and the slot trails behind... If it is the other way around, the chain pulls itself rite out of the keeper...

If it's all installed rite, it should stay together..
 
#12
a master link SHOULD hold up.. Unless there is some kind of bind pushing the chain sideways, OR it was installed wrong..

Just like posted above, if the open end of the master link keeper is pointing forward, the link is about GUARANTEED TO FALL OFF... Just the chain pulling, will pop the keeper off..

Know what I mean? as the chain is rolling,,the CLOSED END of the keeper is first in line, and the slot trails behind... If it is the other way around, the chain pulls itself rite out of the keeper...

If it's all installed rite, it should stay together..
I've noticed after a few times of slipping that keeper on, it starts to get easier and easier as it looses spring tension. Maybe that's the problem. With that chain tool we were talking about, it's not that big of an issue to not use a ML. IF there is a weak link in the chain, the ML is where it's at right?
 
#13
Well, I lied. I do have a chain with a master link. Its on my dyno, and I have never had a problem with it. Its running a 150lb flywheel (not counting the one way clutch, brake rotor, etc) at 4.5 to 1 ratio.
 
#14
Yeah I guess the master would be the weak link as it comes apart.. But if the chain is rolling strait, you'd need a million horse power to rip it in half, JUST BECAUSE it CAN come apart...

The LOAD on the chain is being pulled by the chain sides and the pins holding it together.. Side to side shouldn't come into play much...

If you have a chain tool just make a solid chain.. That'll fix it.. :laugh:
 
#15
Yeah I guess the master would be the weak link as it comes apart.. But if the chain is rolling strait, you'd need a million horse power to rip it in half, JUST BECAUSE it CAN come apart...

The LOAD on the chain is being pulled by the chain sides and the pins holding it together.. Side to side shouldn't come into play much...

If you have a chain tool just make a solid chain.. That'll fix it.. :laugh:
:thumbsup: So either the ML keeper is coming off, or the chain is so warped during operations that it's ripping the keeper off.
 
#16
:thumbsup: So either the ML keeper is coming off, or the chain is so warped during operations that it's ripping the keeper off.
that could be too.. If the chain is worn and stretch real bad, or those links are torn up from coming apart it could be problems too..

Also gotta make sure the link is TOTALLY SQUEEZED together... there is a notch in the pins, that the keeper locks into.. If the keeper isn't snapping in, it will fall apart too..
 
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