Cloning a Lighted Tec H-50 minibike motor "How To"

#23
No there is an intake manifold.. They are about 3/8 inch long plate with two bolt patterns.. one is strait accross from each other with two special screws bolted in from the back :facepalm: for the carb, then another pattern on like 45 degree angle, that bolts the intake to the motor with.. Bolt the carb to the intake, screw the intake to the motor...

screws rust a tiny bit, gotta saw the intake in half to save the carb.. :facepalm:

ALLLLLLLLLWAYYYYYYYYYYYYSSSSS when putting together an H, make sure BOTH carb screws and nuts are near perfect shape, and perfectly clean, spins on perfectly perfect.. :mellow: THAT WAY you can get your carb back off without taking off the intake.. Just shove the carb sideways and bind the bolts up to keep them from spinning.... :anon.sml:


Yes, the dreaded H40 intake manifold... NOT one of Lausons better ideas.. :doah:



the very first post actually shows the original intake still on the long block before I started
Just had the pleasure of fightin' with one of these today, I'm glad I had read this post last week so I knew what I was dealin' with! The two screws holding the intake to the block are rounding off, looks like I'll be drillin' off the heads, I'm hoping there should be enough of what's left of 'em to heat and twist out with some Vise grips. Nope, not one of Lauson's better ideas! :hammer:

Man, you do beautiful work, always an inspiration.
 
#24
I usually spray the screws down from the backside.. One is deep into the block, but the shroud side is open to exposure, so shoot that one with penetrating lube, then I usually stick the biggest phillips you can find into the screw head, and blast it with a hammer a couple dozen times to try and crack the rust loose.... Even try tightening it first, just to get it to move.. An impact driver works good too.. The screwdriver one that ya smack and it drives it on as it turns the screw just a little, ya know?? :shrug:

Yeah.. they are a bitch sometimes..
 
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