Comet Drive Problems - Alsport Tri-Sport
Thanks, Rocco! I've heard of rope in the cylinder to hold the valves closed in an OHV motor to change a valve spring without removing the head, but it never occurred to me that it would would also work to lock the engine (and take less rope for a flattie!) :thumbsup:
All right, that's my next step - take the driver apart and see what's up with it. I seriously doubt I'll get to it tomorrow, so it might be a couple days until I report my findings.
While we're all here, though, I think I'll throw out another question. This one is specific to Tri-Sports, possibly even only to this engine/drive package. The shaft that the driven pulley and the drive sprocket for the chain to the jackshaft go on is supported by 2 bearings that fit in either end of a tube. The bearing on the non-drive end is a (very) light press fit in the tube and has a circlip groove in it's OD. The circlip keeps it from going all the way into the tube. It is sealed on the outside (the side with the circlip groove) but not on the inside. Here's what that end looks like (topmost nut):
The bearing behind the pulley and sprocket, while it has a groove on the OD like the other one, is turned with the groove to the inside and it fits (with no circlip) into the tube, where it seems to bottom on I'm-not-quite-sure-what. (There's no discernable shoulder in the tube or anything.) Meanwhile, it's sealed on one side too, but on the side opposite the groove. It ends up looking like this:
Does this look right? Is there maybe something missing? The main reason I ask is that I had to put a couple additional washers - about 3/16" worth - between the bearing and the sprocket to get the sprockets and pulleys lined up correctly. Something just doesn't strike me as right about the way that bearing just sticks 2/3 of the way into the hole like it does. ??
All right, that's my next step - take the driver apart and see what's up with it. I seriously doubt I'll get to it tomorrow, so it might be a couple days until I report my findings.
While we're all here, though, I think I'll throw out another question. This one is specific to Tri-Sports, possibly even only to this engine/drive package. The shaft that the driven pulley and the drive sprocket for the chain to the jackshaft go on is supported by 2 bearings that fit in either end of a tube. The bearing on the non-drive end is a (very) light press fit in the tube and has a circlip groove in it's OD. The circlip keeps it from going all the way into the tube. It is sealed on the outside (the side with the circlip groove) but not on the inside. Here's what that end looks like (topmost nut):
The bearing behind the pulley and sprocket, while it has a groove on the OD like the other one, is turned with the groove to the inside and it fits (with no circlip) into the tube, where it seems to bottom on I'm-not-quite-sure-what. (There's no discernable shoulder in the tube or anything.) Meanwhile, it's sealed on one side too, but on the side opposite the groove. It ends up looking like this:
Does this look right? Is there maybe something missing? The main reason I ask is that I had to put a couple additional washers - about 3/16" worth - between the bearing and the sprocket to get the sprockets and pulleys lined up correctly. Something just doesn't strike me as right about the way that bearing just sticks 2/3 of the way into the hole like it does. ??
to get the crankshaft bolt off i usually just grab a hold of the pulley with one hand and wrench it off with another. or two hands if you have a helper. they usually arnt crazy tight and tend to not rust. I believe those jackshaft bearing tubes do have a small shoulder inside on the ones i have but i dunno yours might not
Alright, problem solved. Congratulations to jeep2003 for the correct diagnosis, with an assist to james c. One of the 2 springs was off (jeep)because it had broken (james). One of the end loops was off. The spring ended up in the outer corner of the outside plate and was keeping the inner plate at least 5/16" out from fully retracted. I bent another coil out for a new hook and voila!
I cleaned everything up and put some Dri-Slide on the areas specified. Now it retracts most of the way when the engine slows down (without the belt on). HOWEVER, even with it opening all the way, the 3/4" wide belt would not bottom in the pulley, so it still wouldn't work. I had to go retrieve the 5/8"-wide Comet belt that I'd returned before. It works fine (at least on jackstands - it's snowing here and I don't feel like installing the ski:wink
, so I guess the driver isn't a 30-series?
The belt could maybe stand to be a tad shorter (it's the same length as the 203589A), as it doesn't quite open the front pulley all the way (but close) and has more slack than absolutely necessary when disengaged. But it will suffice for all the use this thing's going to get!
In fact, my sister's talking about selling it. Any ideas on a ballpark value for a non-street-legal Tecumseh-engined Tri-Sport in pretty good shape? (Especially compared to anything I've been able to find for sale in the last few weeks!) The red fiberglass body is crack-free, if somewhat weathered (whitish/cloudy compared to under the seat). The original seat had some seams coming apart and is off the trike in the pics I'm about to post.
The chrome has some blistering (all over) and peeling (on the rack above the engine) but should clean up to look halfway decent. Tires are great - very little wear and no cracking. And it has the ski. Is the ski something that should be sold separately, or does it increase the value of the trike more being with it? I have to get going; here are the pics of it:
I cleaned everything up and put some Dri-Slide on the areas specified. Now it retracts most of the way when the engine slows down (without the belt on). HOWEVER, even with it opening all the way, the 3/4" wide belt would not bottom in the pulley, so it still wouldn't work. I had to go retrieve the 5/8"-wide Comet belt that I'd returned before. It works fine (at least on jackstands - it's snowing here and I don't feel like installing the ski:wink
, so I guess the driver isn't a 30-series?The belt could maybe stand to be a tad shorter (it's the same length as the 203589A), as it doesn't quite open the front pulley all the way (but close) and has more slack than absolutely necessary when disengaged. But it will suffice for all the use this thing's going to get!
In fact, my sister's talking about selling it. Any ideas on a ballpark value for a non-street-legal Tecumseh-engined Tri-Sport in pretty good shape? (Especially compared to anything I've been able to find for sale in the last few weeks!) The red fiberglass body is crack-free, if somewhat weathered (whitish/cloudy compared to under the seat). The original seat had some seams coming apart and is off the trike in the pics I'm about to post.
The chrome has some blistering (all over) and peeling (on the rack above the engine) but should clean up to look halfway decent. Tires are great - very little wear and no cracking. And it has the ski. Is the ski something that should be sold separately, or does it increase the value of the trike more being with it? I have to get going; here are the pics of it:
Usually they dont like "HOW MUCH IS IT WORTH" QUESTIONS. But in my opinion even with the clutch issue. with the extra options of luggage rack,headrest and ski. I would say $500-$750 But that is just my opinion. I would replace the driver and belt first. It is easier to sell. With the good tires and running. Your best bet is to get it where people can see it. Then they will want it. I think the best way to sell it. Is to post it on Craigslist with a link to a YOUTUBE video of it running and driving and stopping. That is after you offer it for sale here first? :thumbsup: Randy Example... same trike with my fat ass doing wheelies...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIG2xD2-q0w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIG2xD2-q0w
Well the measurement of the fixed side of a 20 series driver is the same 13 degrees as the movable side for a 26 degree collective angle. So this system is symmetrical
The fixed side of a 30 series driver is not flat, it has a 2 1/2 degree pitch and the movable side has a 18 degree pitch and together they have a 20 1/2 degree collective angle. And with this there comes into play the one direction belt and the terminology asymmetric.
No mixing of parts but the drum and the shoe driver assembly share the same part number on the 30 and 20 series.
Steve
The fixed side of a 30 series driver is not flat, it has a 2 1/2 degree pitch and the movable side has a 18 degree pitch and together they have a 20 1/2 degree collective angle. And with this there comes into play the one direction belt and the terminology asymmetric.
No mixing of parts but the drum and the shoe driver assembly share the same part number on the 30 and 20 series.
Steve
Well, whatever series driver it is, it works great with the 5/8"-wide Comet asymmetric belt - I rode it around for quite a while this afternoon. Idles with absolutely no creep, takes off smartly (no wheelies, though!) and runs out way faster than it did with that 1/2" v-belt on it - no surprise there, eh?
The bushing is fine - most of that 'hashed' look was just discoloration from sitting for so long. It's smooth as can be, inside and out.
The only concern I have now, running-wise, is a lot of relatively-low-frequency, cyclic rrrr-rrrr-rrrr-rrrr-ing somewhere in the drive. It's been there the whole time, and is vehicle-speed-related (actually gets better the faster you go), so I'm thinking along the lines of axle bearing(s).
These things (Tri-sports) aren't just naturally noisy, are they? Or maybe it's overloaded with my 265 on it? :laugh:
The bushing is fine - most of that 'hashed' look was just discoloration from sitting for so long. It's smooth as can be, inside and out.
The only concern I have now, running-wise, is a lot of relatively-low-frequency, cyclic rrrr-rrrr-rrrr-rrrr-ing somewhere in the drive. It's been there the whole time, and is vehicle-speed-related (actually gets better the faster you go), so I'm thinking along the lines of axle bearing(s).
These things (Tri-sports) aren't just naturally noisy, are they? Or maybe it's overloaded with my 265 on it? :laugh: