Comet TC questions?

S

shane73

New Member
#1
#1
This is my first TC I have ever seen or worked with so I am still learning here. The pieces all look to be in prety good condition to me. The springs have been in a round position for almost 30 years so they have kinda took that shape. Do I "REALLY" need to replace them? I am trying to not take out a second morgage to finish this project. I still have alot of parts I know for sure I am going to have to buy but I do want it to be done right. I think this is a CAT99 but I am not 100% sure. I do know it was made in or before 1986.




This is the belt that came with the TC. The guy said he had been running it for the last 6 months before he took the motor off to rebuild it so I know the belt was working. May not be the correct belt but it must be close.


I tried to measure and get a good picture of everything.





From looking at pictures of new ones online, the weight doesn't look to be wore much to me but I will let the professionals decide.



I went here to ID it - How To Identify Comet Torque Converters and it said if it was 5/8" then it was a CAT99 but I got more like 1/2" on the opening and the center shaft. When I put the belt on it with it closed, the top of the 5/8" belt is definitely wider than the opening. I seen on that site where it said there were washers used on some 5/8" ones to make them 3/4". I didn't know if I needed to add washers to make sure it was 5/8" or leave it alone. It doesn't look like anything is wore down to make it that way - it looks like it has always been 1/2"ish. I also didn't want to change the size of the drive and throw the driver off too.


You can see here that 5/8" is wider than the opening when fully closed.


Here is the space / void I asked about in my first post.



I found some drivers that came with what they call a pilot washer so I was curious if mine was missing this.

Driver 3/4" bore,Max-Torque

The guy I got it from said he does not ever remember one here. He also said I have all the parts to it and one was not with it. The few I seen online was only about 2% of all I seen. Half of them were for 1" too. Also looking at the original manual from Manco for this kart, it does not show nothing but a screw, flat washer, and lock washer. This is what came with it. I don't think I need the other type washer I was asking about here...
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/e...p-installing-torque-converter-drive-unit.html


The screw, lock washer, and flat washer seem to work fine.


My driven part I am still checking out. I do know it uses buttons like the 40 series does and they are white. I think it also has a red spring on it. Its rusted now but the guy I got it from said he thinks it was red too.



Where is the cheapest place to get the lube for these? I do not want to pay $25 plus $10 shipping for a couple sprays of lube. Is there somewhere like Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, Wal-Mart, Ebay, Target, Tractor Supply, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, or somewhere like that I can pick up a tube / can for like $5?

Will my garter springs be ok and work like they are supose to? If not where is the cheapest place with shipping to get some?

I know I will need 3 new wear buttons - 40 series and a red or green driven spring. Who has these the cheapest with shipping?

I may also need a bushing - mine has a small crack but it looks usable right now. Cheapest with shipping?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Harleys Papa

Harleys Papa

#2
#2
If you look here you do have the right belt Torque Converter Belts - Comet Belts
as the driver closes the driven opens and the belt slides in, that the best way I can descibe it. As for this space

The shaft on your motor is too short and you need to make a spacer from some 3/4 jack shaft with a hole drilled through it, its easy if you have use of a lathe. If not PM me I can make you one, as for the springs:shrug: I'm no expert maybe some one else will chime in on those:thumbsup:
 
MB165

MB165

Active Member
#5
#5
Harleys Papa said:
If you look here you do have the right belt Torque Converter Belts - Comet Belts
as the driver closes the driven opens and the belt slides in, that the best way I can descibe it. As for this space

The shaft on your motor is too short and you need to make a spacer from some 3/4 jack shaft with a hole drilled through it, its easy if you have use of a lathe. If not PM me I can make you one, as for the springs:shrug: I'm no expert maybe some one else will chime in on those:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Its ok like that, the hub driver will only catch the last 1/4" or so of the crank. my gx200 is looks the same. dont let the driver float on the shaft, it needs to be tight.
pete
 
S

shane73

New Member
#6
#6
Harleys Papa – I thought the shaft may have been too short too, plus I seen the part you are talking about here..

Driver 3/4" bore,Max-Torque

That’s the reason I got concerned. I didn’t want to mess nothing up. Then I seen the diagram / manual for this kart on Manco’s site didn’t show it. Then the friend I got it from said he doesn’t remember one ever being there either. So if he’s right, it’s been ran for decades without it. Still doesn’t mean it wasn’t left off at the factory. Thanks Harley – I will see if I can not find one of them washers somewhere and if not I will PM you.

Steven - never been called a Worry Wart but been called a perfectionist many, many times. I have found out in life its faster, cheaper, easier, and better to always do things right. It always saves time and money in the end. I am a contractor and a lot of my jobs is going in behind other people and fixing their original work for the customer. Now I do go a little overboard sometimes. Ok a lot from what my wife says. If it calls for .9985, I will try my best to get it between .99854 and .99856 thousands of an inch. I am always trying to engineer something better I guess :)
I will check that place out. I had it bookmarked when I first started this project but somehow I looked over it. I still hate the thought of $15 for lube though. I wished 3-in-one and WD40 worked on everything lol.

MB165 – yea I just noticed they had a lot of parts here and they seem to be very good on their prices too. If I can’t find one of those washer / jackshafts I may just run it like that. I have had a lot of people say theirs was like that. I know that special washer wouldn’t hurt but it may be ok without it too.
 
george3

george3

Active Member
#7
#7
Harleys Papa said:
If you look here you do have the right belt Torque Converter Belts - Comet Belts
as the driver closes the driven opens and the belt slides in, that the best way I can descibe it. As for this space

The shaft on your motor is too short and you need to make a spacer from some 3/4 jack shaft with a hole drilled through it, its easy if you have use of a lathe. If not PM me I can make you one, as for the springs:shrug: I'm no expert maybe some one else will chime in on those:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Most of the guys dont make that part because they are clueless, You have to make this or the outer bell will distort. It has to be flush so when you tighten the bolt the washer dosent warp. When the washer warps the outer bell floats and puts massave ware on the bell mounting area, also the drive hub will get damaged by having the bell loose and sloppy. I have seen alot of drivers that way. Use comet lube, not that cheap crap its way better, no compairison. If its |/ shaped like this on the pullys and 5/8 or under cat-99 if its the same but 3/4 its 30 series.
 
george3

george3

Active Member
#8
#8
For got to mention, lol. these mods is best done on a lathe. If done by grinding they will not be as square, It can be done that way but you better be good. Or it will cause excessave ware on the drive system because it constantly is moveing in and out.
 
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