converting from points to electric

[Mr X]

so i have a honda g200 on a minibike and it seems to backfire way too much. when i go full throttle and then let off it backfires not once but like non stop. i did some reading on it and thought that it was running too rich so i leaned it out which made it abit better. i also read that timing could be a factor, so i want to replace the points and condenser stuff with an electronic ignition system. a local store sells this
electronic ignition kit | Gas Engines | Gas Engines | Engines | Princess Auto

so im wondering how this works, do i just take out the condenser and the points and all that stuff then connect this to the magneto and then ground the other contact. or is there something else that has to be done to convert.

im aware that i can maintain the points but i just dont want to deal with that stuff all the time.

 

[125ccCrazy]

so i have a honda g200 on a minibike and it seems to backfire way too much. when i go full throttle and then let off it backfires not once but like non stop. i did some reading on it and thought that it was running too rich so i leaned it out which made it abit better. i also read that timing could be a factor, so i want to replace the points and condenser stuff with an electronic ignition system. a local store sells this
electronic ignition kit | Gas Engines | Gas Engines | Engines | Princess Auto

so im wondering how this works, do i just take out the condenser and the points and all that stuff then connect this to the magneto and then ground the other contact. or is there something else that has to be done to convert.

im aware that i can maintain the points but i just dont want to deal with that stuff all the time.

You sure that it has points?? if it's anewer engine I'd think it's already electronic... If not all you have to do is bolt the new coil on considering it has an external coil and hook a ground wire to the tab on the coil for a kill switch and from the other side of the kill switch to a ground source on the engine (i.e a bolt)...

 

[Mr X]

yes im sure the engine has points because the manual says to adjust them. and today i was riding having lots of fun and then the engine died completely, not even a pop. i took it apart and there is a bunch of fresh gas in the cylinder and the engine has no spark. im thinking the points or something got wet and stopped working because i accidentally went through a mud puddle. or maybe the magneto moved from all the impacts that happened today.

as for the electronic thing im going to buy it then and replace the points and hopefully that fixes it.

and this engine is from the 80s

 

[Strigoi]

check your plug and you'll be able to tell if it's running too rich/lean. the white part around the electrode should be a tan color if it's ok. if it's white, it's too lean and black means too rich.

 

[125ccCrazy]

yes im sure the engine has points because the manual says to adjust them. and today i was riding having lots of fun and then the engine died completely, not even a pop. i took it apart and there is a bunch of fresh gas in the cylinder and the engine has no spark. im thinking the points or something got wet and stopped working because i accidentally went through a mud puddle. or maybe the magneto moved from all the impacts that happened today.

as for the electronic thing im going to buy it then and replace the points and hopefully that fixes it.

and this engine is from the 80s

well I would think that a coil off a newer engine (electronic) should bolt on and take care of the points problem..... I was assuming this was a newer
g200, didn't realize they were made that far back.... Learn something new everyday..

 

[Oldschool]

Looking at my clones I can see where parts for the points mounted.

As I recall the GX motors came out in the mid 80s, but I don;t know if they were out even earlier and had points. The G motors of the same era had points.

 

[Motra]

The GX's didn't ever have points but the G's did. Some of the later G engines came with a CDI ignition though.

 

[Mr X]

i dont know if mine has a cdi ignition, i took it apart and it had points that work by having an oval crankshaft at that point and when the high part reaches the lever it comes together and creates a spark. but i took all of that out and bought a resistor sorta thing that says it eliminates the need for points. i installed it and it fit in the same spot the points were at. but the problem is that my engine still doesnt have a spark and i cant take the flywheel off now to check. its stuck on there pretty hard, anyone got ideas on taking it off safely?

so this spark problem is probably the magneto but i will take it apart again and make sure that nothing is grounding or anything like that.


i would really like to fix this engine so i can ride my bike but the worst part of all is that there is a gx200 clone for sale at a local store for 140 canadian brand new. im really tempted to buy it but i dont really have the money for it but my credit cards are both empty so i dont know and i still have to pay for school.

 

[Strigoi]

flywheels are a bitch to take off if you don't know how.

watch this video and around 6:40 into it he shows how to get the flywheel off (it doesn't matter that it's a clone in the video). i normally use a medium size pry bar and a sledge hammer. one solid hit (not too hard) is all it takes to get it loose. all you're doing is knocking it off the taper.

YouTube - how to get a 6.5 hp clone engine race ready part 1 of 4

 

[minibikedude]

You must have the old Honda engines that are a flat head design. Much like a Briggs copy if its a Honda g200 motor, The GX200 are over head valves here the USA. I have purchased one of those breaker less points kits to try in a older Tecumseh motor. The unit did not fit inside the points case like I thought it would, So I never used it. I would also check you air gap between the magnets on the flywheel and magneto. Use a business card to set the gap. and replace the points and condenser if there old and a fresh plug. If set up correctly points work fine. Also check spark plug lead for cracks that could be shorting to the block. Use the advice on checking if the engine is running too rich or lean that was posted earlier. hope this helps out a little.

 

[minibikedude]

You should also post some pictures of you engine and the points/flywheel your working on.

 

[Mr X]

the point systme mounting is alittle different on this engine then a briggs, inside its all flat there is no cut outs to fit all th eparts they are bolted on. this module just fits inside the case its a tight fit buit everything clears. the problem still is that i cant take the flywheel off still. i tried a hammer like the video and it didnt work i also tried a 20 pound sledge hammer and it still didnt work. i even sprayed very good lubricant in the taper to help it slide off. i dont want to take it to a shop because thy will charge me money, if im going to be spending money on this i might as well buy that clone engine for 140 and be done with it. a guy i know said he has a honda flathead 5hp engine which hes willing to give to me so maybe that will work out and i wont have to mess with this.

as for the magneto adjustments there isnt any, it has studs that fit into the block and you cant adjust it like a briggs engine.

also on a sidenote my friends bike has a 3hp briggs i/c engine which went through exactly the same abuse and it works perfectly. his engine sat outside for 3 years until last week when i cleaned the carb and sanded down the flywheel magnets and it started right up. this is also kinda sad because the engine is basically new and it shouldnt be having these problems.


so i will try to take the flywheel off what i have with some other ways i saw on you tube and if it doesnt work im going to give it away to someone.

 

[Oldschool]

The Intake port on the G200 is absolutely brutal. Its a great engine for reliability but your going to need some devcon and patients to make the thing breath

 

[Mr X]

so i ended up getting 2 honda g150 engines today on these barrel mowers. i cut the motor plates from the mowers and threw them out and took the engines off. one runs and is dirty the other is seized but is clean and used very little. so im going to run this 3.5hp motor for now and fix up the g200 with a magneto from the spare seized motor and modify the g200 abit. make some sort or free flowing exhaust and maybe port the intake and exhaust and remove the governor.

 

[Oldschool]

As carb spacer I used a 1 inch chunk of Phenloic ( was actualy an old spacer forma Q jet the piece in the center had just enough material to make the adaptor ) The nice thing about that stuff is its heat resistant not a particularly good conductor of heat and easy to shape with air tools. ( ran the HL 166 and a larger one can't recall what it was ). I don't recal how or what I did to make the Honda stud location match the Tilley carb...

Your going to feel a sharp corner inside the intake left side of the runner. There's a lot of metal there you can cut so don't worry but just round it. The right side of the runner aproaching the bowl is basicly a pocket and your going to have to fill that hole with some Devcon HR and reshape it.

I completely removed the governer.

Header was a home fab.

I recall shamfering the aluminum around the valve seats witha bearing scraper. Cutting the head down and polishing it and the deck and thats about it.

I maybe confusing that engine with an EY25 I built around the same time but I think the valves were soft on those Hondas and the ends around the retainers would mushroom.

I removed the key and run a little advanced timing and set the gap wide onthe points I don't remember the details....

Nothing else jumps out at me. I ran a stock rod. I even had a new undersize around here untill I gave the kart away.....

That particular modded G was a smooth running egine but blew up from abuse.