First basic clone build

#1
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but I have been interested with minis for a few years. I built my Doodle Bug with a blue Greyhound 6.5hp swap and a Comet clutch about 4 years ago and I finally think it's time for a lil hop up. I have been very easy on this engine and it has not been rode much so it's seems to still be in very good shape. Here's the things I've done and parts I've ordered so far.

-Removed governor
-Removed low oil sensor
-I'm going to drill/tap the side cover and install a nipple and drain hose to vent the block

PARTS Ordered
-self tapping bolt to plug governor hole
-ARC billet flywheel that I'm goin to lap
-4 degree timing key
-Uni air filter and adapter
-90 and 92 jet, I'm going to see which one runs better
-stage 2 mini bike header
-18lb valve springs
-Bosch platinum 4 plug
-all new gaskets except head since it's not getting removed
-solid case dowels
-Max Torque modified clutch
-Tiny Tach so I can keep an eye on RPM's since I'm using a stock rod for now
-last but not least, a hydrolic brake upgrade kit so I can stop

Do you guys think this is a good setup for now? What do you think I should limit my RPM's too with a stock rod?

I'm open for any opinions/comments/ideas.

Thanks,
 
#2
i wouldnt spin a clone rod over 4200 rpm, best off getting a billet rod, seeing as any gains you make will be negated b the fact that the engine cant spin any faster
 
#3
Okay thanks, I'm also going to brace the engine mounting plate and use rubber washers on the engine mount bolts because it really vibrates bad at mid RPM
 
#4
If I did install a billet rod I would prolly go ahead and install a Honda flat top piston, Honda wrist pin and new rings.

Would it be worth it installing these extra along with a new head gasket and heavy duty bolts or studs? It adds up fast :doah: $$$
 
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#5
If I did install a billet rod I would prolly go ahead and install a Honda flat top piston, Honda wrist pin and new rings.

Would it be worth it installing these extra along with a new head gasket and heavy duty bolts or studs? It adds up fast :doah: $$$
yes. get a honda piston and rings, wrist pin and clips, and the billet rod. worth the money. i would also get an extra exhaust valve retainer and lash cap, and use it on the intake valve. that way both valves are locked in slightly better.

just my opinion.
 
#8
Yea I just might do that. Another thing I'm going to do is fabricate a steel plate that mounts flush under my seat. Just in case of explosion.


yeah one time i was ridin mine and it exploded, piston hit me in the :censure: , im lucky it wasnt hard, i mean the piston not my :censure: .....
 
#9
yeah one time i was ridin mine and it exploded, piston hit me in the :censure: , im lucky it wasnt hard, i mean the piston not my :censure: .....
Oh yeah?..... Well one time mine exploded and we couldnt find the crank shaft for weeks.



.........Guess where it was :laugh:
 
#10
hahaha funny :wink: . But I'm serious about the steel plate lol.

I believe I'm going to go with the ARC billet rod, Honda flat top piston, new rings, new head gasket, and new heavy duty bolts or studs.

I do have a couple of questions more to ask though.

First: If I put new rings in should I have to hone the cylinder? I've always heard you're supposed to so the rings will seat. My engine is in very good shape and hatch marks are still present ?

Second: Should I go with heavy duty bolts or studs ? From AGK studs are a lil more expensive and it doesn't seem that they come with nuts/washers ? I think that heavy duty bolts coated in some moly lube and torqued to 17-20ftlbs? would be good enough since I'm only runnin a flat top piston compression wise.

Thanks for your input,
 
#11
hahaha funny :wink: . But I'm serious about the steel plate lol.

I believe I'm going to go with the ARC billet rod, Honda flat top piston, new rings, new head gasket, and new heavy duty bolts or studs.

I do have a couple of questions more to ask though.

First: If I put new rings in should I have to hone the cylinder? I've always heard you're supposed to so the rings will seat. My engine is in very good shape and hatch marks are still present ?

Second: Should I go with heavy duty bolts or studs ? From AGK studs are a lil more expensive and it doesn't seem that they come with nuts/washers ? I think that heavy duty bolts coated in some moly lube and torqued to 17-20ftlbs? would be good enough since I'm only runnin a flat top piston compression wise.

Thanks for your input,
IT would be a good idea to do your mods with your eventual goal in mind. You can spend a lot of money on little things that wont bring performance... but will bring longevity. Especially if later you are wanting to add more power.

So far you have not really added much power to the build. Prob 10 hp or so. If you want power I would go with an isky engine kit.
 
#12
IT would be a good idea to do your mods with your eventual goal in mind. You can spend a lot of money on little things that wont bring performance... but will bring longevity. Especially if later you are wanting to add more power.

So far you have not really added much power to the build. Prob 10 hp or so. If you want power I would go with an isky engine kit.
I agree. I'm on a budget so I'm just trying to make a lil more power now and mainly make it stout (reliable).

I found that I can get a ring expander, ring compressor, and cylinder hone at harbor freight for a pretty good price. So I'm going to lightly hone it just so the new rings seat well.

Thanks for the advice,
 
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#13
Just ordered an ARC billet rod, Honda flat top piston, Honda wrist pin, wrist pin clips, .010 head gasket, head stud kit and heavy duty side cover bolts.

I'm plannin on spraying some copper gasket sealer on the headgasket, Do you think this is a good idea?
 
#14
Just ordered an ARC billet rod, Honda flat top piston, Honda wrist pin, wrist pin clips, .010 head gasket, head stud kit and heavy duty side cover bolts.

I'm plannin on spraying some copper gasket sealer on the headgasket, Do you think this is a good idea?
No I would not use any sealer.
 
#15
hahaha funny :wink: . But I'm serious about the steel plate lol.

I believe I'm going to go with the ARC billet rod, Honda flat top piston, new rings, new head gasket, and new heavy duty bolts or studs.

I do have a couple of questions more to ask though.

First: If I put new rings in should I have to hone the cylinder? I've always heard you're supposed to so the rings will seat. My engine is in very good shape and hatch marks are still present ?

Second: Should I go with heavy duty bolts or studs ? From AGK studs are a lil more expensive and it doesn't seem that they come with nuts/washers ? I think that heavy duty bolts coated in some moly lube and torqued to 17-20ftlbs? would be good enough since I'm only runnin a flat top piston compression wise.

Thanks for your input,


copenhagen59, i think u should weld angle iron underneath of ur plate, and put small pieces of strap on the side to fill in the gaps and weld it , and that should hold.
 
#18
Does anyone know how much I should hone the cylinder ? I'm just going to use a hone from harbor freight...
Very little....

just enough to break the glaze on it ( if it has run already )

Look at the cylinder see where the cross hatch is polished from the rings running VS where the rings have not touched.

Just hone enough to get rid of that and make it all the same.
 
#19
Very little....

just enough to break the glaze on it ( if it has run already )

Look at the cylinder see where the cross hatch is polished from the rings running VS where the rings have not touched.

Just hone enough to get rid of that and make it all the same.
Okay thank you for the info.

A certain person told me I should hone it well because the Honda flat top would be tight and I could see some scarring of the cylinder wall....

Was he right ?
 

RobK

New Member
#20
I don't see any reason the flat top piston should be any tighter than the stock one. Hone the cylinder until you get a nice consistant cross hatch pattern on the whole thing. Assuming the cylinder bore is not in bad shape, this should be pretty easy, with a minimal amount of honing. Use plenty of oil, a slow drill speed, and don't over do it. If you pull the hone to far back while it's turning, the three arms are going to fly out. We used to use a Flex Hone "dingleberry" hone instead of the three legged spring loaded ones. I thought they were easier to use, and did a nice job, but you have to have the right size.
 
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