Gabrielle (Daniel) Coop's - "G Thang" Motovox MBX10 - (Chinese Class)

#61

Shocks showed up... These are actually the second pair, because the first ones I ordered showed up black with orange springs and were not adjustable. These nice aluminum body shocks are light, adjustable and the correct color. These shocks measure 8" eye to eye.

Nothing left, but to make it happen...
 
#62
Looks cool..are you gonna hinge the under seat tubes and cut away the down tubes or..should ride nice whatever you do..:thumbsup:
 
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#63
Looks cool..are you gonna hinge the under seat tubes and cut away the down tubes or..should ride nice whatever you do..:thumbsup:
That is exactly my plan. Seems like it should be pretty straight forward. My only concern is that I have no clue what the spring rates are on these coilovers. Don't know if it'll be too stiff to actually give me the suspension or if It'll end up interfering with the under seat exhaust. Just have to build up my nerves a little bit to cut into this pristine new frame.
 
#65
Well you could always make longer tabs for shocks to compensate if an issue..in fact you could make tabs with multiple mount holes or at least 2
 
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#66

My GX200 showed back up today from Childish Concepts Racing out in WI via FedEx with some of it's original parts in the box. Amazing how much lighter this thing is with that PVL flywheel. Stock GX200 cam, valve springs and rockers anyone? Lol. Couldn't wait to get it back in the bike. Went ahead and shortened the throttle cable to length and cut myself a proper length or chain. Kill switch is wired, only thing keeping this from ripping down the street is oil and gas, but...
My wife won't let me bring it back in the house with oil and gas in it. Did it mainly to take care of loose ends and have it in for cutting the seat. Want to make sure I have clearance and the seat won't smash down on the exhaust. I don't think I will run the front fender. Looks cheap and bulky, but the back end looks silly without the fender.
 
#67
Looks good:smile:..you sure rear fender away from exhaust.i just beat the mounts down a bit and bent mount holes back w a vice grip to lower the fenders...I've seen tons of melted ones one ytube..ya could cut front fender down a bit if you not like it.or take it off if you ride street not needed..i really like the raked shape of the top frame tubes..took me awhile to warm to to them..i love my mmb80..yours does have more engine space..
 
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#68
Looks good:smile:..you sure rear fender away from exhaust.i just beat the mounts down a bit and bent mount holes back w a vice grip to lower the fenders...I've seen tons of melted ones one ytube..ya could cut front fender down a bit if you not like it.or take it off if you ride street not needed..i really like the raked shape of the top frame tubes..took me awhile to warm to to them..i love my mmb80..yours does have more engine space..
Thanks for the suggestion Raskin. I will try lowering the fender. Part of the issue is I need to un-tension the chain and slide the motor forward another centimeter or two. The valve cover is touching the rear fender, causing it to pop up in the back a little. Today I was beat from working 34 hours out of the last 48, but managed to finalize the engine details in full, so now I truly do only need oil and gas.

I added a UNI breather filter and created a convenient hold down for it at the perfect length for the factory breather hose, using a longer shoulder bolt and a small spacer I cut to length, bolted through the throttle linkage arm.

I also plumbed all new red fuel line through the recoil housing in it's original insulation in the factory intended location to an inline fuel filter with enough slack to remove the tank for filling.

Hopefully, the extra little loop of fuel line won't interfere with the gravity fed fuel system, but I have a Mikuni fuel pump on hand just in case.

I also used my cut off wheel to relieve the throttle cable compression fitting bracket to completely clear the fuel tank which was hitting before and partially led to the clearance issue between the tank and frame.

Something was bothering me about the stock Motovox handlebars... They look a little dorky in my opinion. They're too high and look like they came off a cheap BMX bike.
I had already decided that I wasn't running the front Motovox fender too, so I removed it and the brackets and it really cleaned up in my opinion. I went out to my garage to see what I had for options for new handlebars. In the far corner of my garage was my daughter's old broken and forgotten Razor MX250 electric dirt bike. The handlebars on it looked like they might do the trick, with their lower slung profile. So I robbed them from the POS and on my way back in the house, something on my Honda Ruckus scooter caught my eye. So now with 2 parts in hand from 2 different bikes, one from my "street legal" mini bike,(Ruckus) I went in and tore off the original Motovox bars and installed the new ones and my Fox Racing pad from my scooter, along with the new red Super Grips.

Because the Super Grips are longer than the factory grips, I ran out of real estate for the kill switch, so I relocated it to in-between the handlebar clamps

I like it a lot! I think it really gives the bike a whole new attitude. And the best part is, outside of the $7 I think I spent on the grips, it was a free mod!
 
#70
As suggested, I lowered my rear fender about as 1/2" by bending the brackets. I can almost get my hand between the muffler and fender. Hopefully it is enough to avoid a melted fender
 
#71
If you could tweak the pipe uphill a few degrees it would help. It looks like the pipe is slightly down hill and that might level it a little better. I know there will be a fine line between the sprung seat and the fender to find the sweet spot...

Bike is looking good.
 
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#72

Got the suspension seat done... Mostly. Still have to get some nuts and proper length bolts.

As lovely as the springs and shocks look, the springs are much​ too stiff.
vintage Triumph motorcycle shock spring
cut evenly in half.
Try them out tomorrow.
 
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#73
A couple of last minute things attended to before breaking it all down for powder coating. Removed the VIN plate to re-rivet back on later and deleted the plastic chain guard mounting tab
Those forks were a pain in my... Off to the powder coater
 
#74
Nice progress..:thumbsup: i like the lean in forward riding posion of those frames..the mmb80 like that...if you pop a wheelie your seat is really level..:laugh:
 
#75
So... My cut Triumph motorcycle shock spring didn't work out as planned, but I managed to order another set of 200mm shocks with 200lb springs instead of the 500-700lb springs on the rear shocks now. Hopefully it'll work. If not, I will be stuck spending $300 to have a local company make some proper springs... The frame should be about done and I expect it tomorrow and will thrash to get it assembled. Tomorrow is Gabrielle's 10th birthday and I am down to the wire. Luckily for me, she's only hoping it'll be done by this weekend when her Birthday party is. At this point it's all about final details...
Painted the bare metal new front spacers and the original black rear spacers to match the wheels. Also disassembled the hydraulic brake kit and painted the caliper red with caliper paint
 
#77

Was excited and anxious to pick up the frame from the powder coater who called to say it was done. Went in to pick it up and he informed me he had to redo one of the fork legs but let me take the rest of it to get busy. Love the color, but it's not without issue... There's a couple of spots on the bottom of the frame where the powder is thin to put it lightly. Worse yet, I forgot to remove the steering stem bearings, but he told me he'd pop them out for me no problem when I dropped it off. Apparently he couldn't get them out, so instead, he tried sealing them up and went to strip the paint off and powdered over them. I don't know if it was the stripper or the oven, but the bearings got baked and are now missing the seals and are ruined. Now I have to try getting them out of a freshly powder coated frame where they have been sealed in with powder... Ugh! Not making my deadline for myself and my daughter's birthday which was the 18th. Happy Birthday Gabrielle Rose... We'll get her done
 
#78
Easy task, Iv done several stems like so.......get a long metal stake. I used a lawn stake from HF I had laying around. Insert it from the top, then angle to assure you touching bottom bearing surface. 1 hard hit with small sledge and out she flies. Now insert stake from bottom and again angle to contact upper bearing anywhere really, and wack! Up she flies... don't worry minor chipping on the upper and lower bearing holder, you won't see that small ring area.
I only use method when bearing are cheap like 3 bucks each.

Also, that finish looks rough, almost like a wrinkle finish. If it's not suppose to be wrinkle finish, I'd say it looks painted. Did he blast it first?
 
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#80
After pounding out was was left of the bearings, I had a few chips in the frame, and with a couple of thin spots on the bottom of the frame, an ugly black bugger showing through a weld on rear fender bracket and a small spot on the fork leg that was missing powder, I took back the offending pieces for another coat of powder. They had it all fixed and back to me in half a day.
I'm not sure why the light texture on the finish, since it's only the 2nd bike I've done and had coated. My white stretched DB30s has a similar texture, and I guess I thought maybe it was because of the flat finishes? Now I am curious... Either way, me and Gabby like it and will go ahead with final assembly after I get a couple bearings for it tomorrow morning. Surprisingly, the only place I could find them locally is a little more than a half hour away at Whistler Bearings and Drives. The same place that made my custom brake lines on my DB. And yes, it's pink like I warned...lol
 
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