gilson/monkey wards rear sprocket

I know the question has come up before so others will need to add-in. What is wrong with what you have now?
The rear sprocket is wore out. Odd enough the jackshaft looks fine. What I did ride around before I blew it all apart I was happy with the factory gearing with a 4hp. Going to a 5hp I didn't think I would need to regear it.

Thanks and I left it out but I would prefer a steel gear (needy I know).
If you are going for stock replacement, the chain and sprocket are #35, 36T respectively. The first two I found are steel. I don't think you are going to do better unless someone here has a parts bike...
I buy the 60 tooth blanks from OldMiniBikes. I have an old 36 tooth sprocket like yours that I use as a template for the bolt holes. I like the OldMiniBikes sprocket because it accepts a 1 3/8" bearing so the wheel has two bearings and the sprocket is supported by another bearing and helps mitigate the problem of too much torque ripping the bolts from the wheel (with the 1" spacers on each bolt). I generally use a 13/14t jackshaft sprocket to get the output ratio down in the low 4s. I try to get the final drive ratio about 5.86 with a big block Tec and 6.33 with an HS50.

BTW here is the one in question

Yes I cleaned it up and painted it while it was apart.
What am I looking at here? Is this from a single-speed 424? Neither my V424 nor the 2-speed 525 have cogs that look like that...

Looks more like a JS sprocket with those holes so close to the teeth.
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^That's the sprocket listed in post #2. OP wants steel but why swiss cheese when 36T comes in blanks? I read back to the older posts about not being able to find this disk- Google shows me two sources right off the bat. I guess I'm confused so I'll back out.
Thanks guys. I didn't know if an replacement was out there as an off the shelf part.

I was really trying to fight swapping out the jack shaft right now. The the bearings and sprockets on it all all good and trying to keep the cost down. Later on I was gonna do it when swapping to a torque converter. Around here with the dirt, dust, mud, and rocks the aluminum sprockets don't live long. I've been through that with a go cart when I was a kid.
^ I've always liked your mini (upside-down peace sign too). Can you tell if the front fender brace is original or did someone add it after-the-fact. I've seen a few now with those trailing-edge braces...
Best I can tell everything on mine was as it came factory. The front fender brace looked to be made of the same metal as the rear braces. They all had the factory color on them under the poured on house paint. Funny, there was no primer on them and where the braces were bolted under their respective parts they were left bare steel. Was like they were added after the fact and then the whole bike was painted at once.
^Right no discrete primer coat was used. I am learning that Gilson made these bikes with subtle changes over the few years they were produced. The braces were needed from the get-go...
If you would like I can get good pictures and detailed measurements off them. Matter of fact the whole bike is blown apart and if anybody wants detailed info on any part its a good time. The only thing I can't help with it the clutch guard. The original owner still says they think it's in the shed/lean to where the bike was and if they find it they will give it to me. That shed is a cluster pluck and they won't ever get to it so I've given up hope on it.

The original owner did get a good look at the bike and started crying. She was over joyed I was taking the time to restore it.
I'll be honest, aside from the seat, the originality of it was attractive all the way down to the peace sign. I would have bought it if you were selling. I started life with a custom Gilson Trail and nothing about it sent the message "nostalgic". So, I swung back in the other direction and sought-out only completely original examples. I don't use the custom, I'm not interested in it anymore.

Stickers, little bit of trail damage,mud/dirt, seat seam rips because of heavy use, normal rust because, well, they didn't care about surface prep back then- all tell a story about life in the 70s. Some complain about vibration, that's what they did back then. Hot summer day, sitting in the street waiting for traffic (and sometimes cops) to clear, brake lever dancing around. It's all part of the past now.

Time to bring it back.
I know a few with the keep it original mentality and I can understand it to a point. I blame the over played out rat rod craze for the fact I'm sick and tired of rust. I think it's stupid how rust and "patina" now drives the price of items up. Now if it was a George Barris personally hand built mini then by all means save it as he touched it as much as you can.

This being a common mid range/optioned mail order mini there isn't anything special except it's survived all these years with one (2 now) owner. She gave it to me to "fix back up" for my son. If the house paint on it wouldn't had been slathered on so haphazard I might have tried harder to save it. The rust under the factory paint was getting so bad everything I tried to remove the house paint the factory paint came with it. Under those stickers was so pitted I had to use body filler to smooth it out. Thats why I said screw it and went in full bore stripping it to bare metal and putting a good paint job on it.