Havasu Dave's - "Mini Bike" - (Just For Fun)
Dave...I like what you are doing here! That mount is awesome! ...and yes, Vince is a great guy to deal with and has great parts!
As a thought...I believe the reed block on that engine can be flipped over and the carb can have a straight pull for the throttle, but that will put the bowl at the top, which some guys don't care for...they say it will leak into the crankcase...I dunno, just a thought. If you want to try it, I know a guy, that knows a guy, that has the gaskets for it!
As a thought...I believe the reed block on that engine can be flipped over and the carb can have a straight pull for the throttle, but that will put the bowl at the top, which some guys don't care for...they say it will leak into the crankcase...I dunno, just a thought. If you want to try it, I know a guy, that knows a guy, that has the gaskets for it!
Yes sir, that reed block can be flipped over, giving the throttle a straight shot "up." I even have the fancy billet mount and ferule clamp. However, since I heard that low speed (idle) works better with the inlet on the bottom, I ordered a 90 degree throttle entry, and fabricated a carb mount to fit it. The cool one had a threaded hole too large for the 90 degree fitting. A guy who knows a guy already sent me some gaskets and a reed set. But I may need another exhaust gasket. "may need," so you might as well toss it in the box headed this way. 
If I said I wasn't a little intimidated by this engine, I'd be lying, but so far, I find it extremely simple. (Jinxed it, didn't I)
Danford1, it was Rustoleum Metalic Finish. I have more costly paints, but this came out the best, since I wasn't going to actually chrome the wheels.
If I said I wasn't a little intimidated by this engine, I'd be lying, but so far, I find it extremely simple. (Jinxed it, didn't I)
Danford1, it was Rustoleum Metalic Finish. I have more costly paints, but this came out the best, since I wasn't going to actually chrome the wheels.
This 580 uses a Tillotson 189E single stack. Soaked it in Berryman's over night, scrubbed, blew, carburetor cleaner, new gaskets, and was surprised to find the fulcrum (which controls the fuel supply needle) was adjusted well below flush. I don't know how it pumped before, but I do know why it would quit for no reason. (I hope) :laugh: Good old fashioned Permatex shellac to seal the one plug.
I got this engine mount from California Vintage Karts. Vince is a great guy to work with. This particular mount is a re-pop from the setup used on the Go Kart Big Bear Scrambler in 1959.
I gained about 1.25 inches from the aluminum plate mount, and now have clearance for everything.
Setup before welding in place. Yeah, carb is hanging, and note that little brass nut and ferule I almost lost. (grin)
I got this engine mount from California Vintage Karts. Vince is a great guy to work with. This particular mount is a re-pop from the setup used on the Go Kart Big Bear Scrambler in 1959.
I gained about 1.25 inches from the aluminum plate mount, and now have clearance for everything.
Setup before welding in place. Yeah, carb is hanging, and note that little brass nut and ferule I almost lost. (grin)
:grind:
No, I cut and coped the tube and then welded the plate on with the engine fitted. Irony- the tube is a piece from my Flexo project a few years ago, and the mount originates from a 59 go kart cycle big bear, which is where the Flexo originated.
Form follows function. The big expanse will shrink once the clutch, chain and chain guard are in place. Now if I needed lightening holes, and could get away with them strength wise, I certainly would. This is lighter than the aluminum engine mount was. So that's a plus.
Thanks. It was my last idea, before I sold the engine and went with a Briggs flattie three. :laugh:
No, I cut and coped the tube and then welded the plate on with the engine fitted. Irony- the tube is a piece from my Flexo project a few years ago, and the mount originates from a 59 go kart cycle big bear, which is where the Flexo originated.
Form follows function. The big expanse will shrink once the clutch, chain and chain guard are in place. Now if I needed lightening holes, and could get away with them strength wise, I certainly would. This is lighter than the aluminum engine mount was. So that's a plus.
Thanks. It was my last idea, before I sold the engine and went with a Briggs flattie three. :laugh:
I've disassembled the engine and stripped off both the original paint, and the "Ebay Seller Rattle Can paint. I use paint stripper, 3M pads, and elbow grease. No blasting is used on my bikes, or engines.
Once the crankshaft had been removed, I decided it would be prudent to replace all bearings and seals. The PTO bearing needs to be pressed out, or pulled. I seated the crank in a jig and tapped the bearing off with a cold chisel. This area of the crank will be machined down to accept the new bearing without applying pressure. It is held in place with a C-clip.
The PTO Bearing Part Number is 127910-2, and the PTO Seal is Part Number 31146.
The magneto side needle bearing and seal will also be replaced. It is necessary to heat the aluminum to 150F to facilitate this. The Magneto side Needle Bearing, is a Torrington, Part Number B-126, and the Magneto side Seal is Part Number 2770146-1.
Member OND gives a good write up on some of these aspects in his thread here as far as tearing these down and removing C clips and rod bearings.
I have been trying to come up with paint designs for the engine. I am not a fan of polishing aluminum, because no matter what, at some point, you are going to be polishing it again, even though it looks stunning. Clear coat will dull the polished aluminum, and paint looks like....paint. This is a US Motor product, not a West Bend, Chrysler Power Bee, etc. So it was painted silver with a black recoil right out of a Tecumseh.
But at least I am THINKING about it, LOL. Also wondering if I should go with a Black Mamba cam, or a CL-1, and just use 18 LB valve springs. :innocent:
Almost forgot- Louie Figone has exchanged countless emails with me on various aspects of this. He is setting the carb pop off pressure for me as well. Should be good, as I used original spring, but nice to have a master look at that carb for me.
Once the crankshaft had been removed, I decided it would be prudent to replace all bearings and seals. The PTO bearing needs to be pressed out, or pulled. I seated the crank in a jig and tapped the bearing off with a cold chisel. This area of the crank will be machined down to accept the new bearing without applying pressure. It is held in place with a C-clip.
The PTO Bearing Part Number is 127910-2, and the PTO Seal is Part Number 31146.
The magneto side needle bearing and seal will also be replaced. It is necessary to heat the aluminum to 150F to facilitate this. The Magneto side Needle Bearing, is a Torrington, Part Number B-126, and the Magneto side Seal is Part Number 2770146-1.
Member OND gives a good write up on some of these aspects in his thread here as far as tearing these down and removing C clips and rod bearings.
I have been trying to come up with paint designs for the engine. I am not a fan of polishing aluminum, because no matter what, at some point, you are going to be polishing it again, even though it looks stunning. Clear coat will dull the polished aluminum, and paint looks like....paint. This is a US Motor product, not a West Bend, Chrysler Power Bee, etc. So it was painted silver with a black recoil right out of a Tecumseh.
But at least I am THINKING about it, LOL. Also wondering if I should go with a Black Mamba cam, or a CL-1, and just use 18 LB valve springs. :innocent:
Almost forgot- Louie Figone has exchanged countless emails with me on various aspects of this. He is setting the carb pop off pressure for me as well. Should be good, as I used original spring, but nice to have a master look at that carb for me.
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Oh I have that wrench in the photo so everyone thinks I know what I am doing. Trying to look all mekanikal and stuff. You're right, at 80 inch pounds, either I get an owie in a joint, or the entire engine spins off the bench. :laugh: I stuck the crank in the freezer for three hours, then pressed on the ball bearing. (By press, I mean hit the mofo with a five pound sledge will supporting it in a couple pieces of frame)
In between sharing smarmy, angry old man posts on the internet, I decided to shoot the shroud purple. The overlaying theme of the bike color will be a purple, and I had this laying around for a few years. It is an acrylic enamel (Ful Cryl from Nason) which is a single stage paint. What single stage means is that there is no top coat of "clear" urethane required over it. It is catalyzed chemically with a "hardener" at an 8:1 ratio. It is fuel proof. Contrary to what might be out there, nothing vintage was ever painted using these chemicals in the 70's, except for European cars, and a very few customized, high end after market jobs in the US. The reason for this was that mottling occurred in early US attempts at using this, or it's urethane cousin.
Vintage mini bikes were generally painted with enamel, sprayed or dipped, and usually baked.
This particular color I think I found on a chip at Napa, but I cant recall. It's got both metallic and the smaller pearl in it. Photo doesn't do it justice. It is just as smooth and shiny as a two stage application would have been. Do not waste your expensive clear coat when you can use single stage. Do not assume you can't do this on your own, in the privacy of your own home. It is easier than using a hardware store rattle can. Trust me. The only bad part is cleaning the gun. Cleaning the gun sucks owl shit, and is a necessary evil.
Vintage mini bikes were generally painted with enamel, sprayed or dipped, and usually baked.
This particular color I think I found on a chip at Napa, but I cant recall. It's got both metallic and the smaller pearl in it. Photo doesn't do it justice. It is just as smooth and shiny as a two stage application would have been. Do not waste your expensive clear coat when you can use single stage. Do not assume you can't do this on your own, in the privacy of your own home. It is easier than using a hardware store rattle can. Trust me. The only bad part is cleaning the gun. Cleaning the gun sucks owl shit, and is a necessary evil.