Help buying clutch

T

Tator

New Member
#1
#1
I need some help on a new clutch I don't know anything about them or what would be the best for my build. I'm going to be running a Hemi Predator with the OldMiniBikes stage 1 kit and a 60T sprocket and a OldMiniBikes clutch brake with 6" wheels if any of that matters. Thanks for any help this is my first build and I'm trying to learn as I go and I done several searches and didn't really find anything :confused:
 
cheezy1

cheezy1

#4
#4
Tator said:
what is the difference in the more expensive one's like the Max Torque Box stock and some of the others ?
Click to expand...
The link I posted is a basic standard clutch. If taken care of and maintained..it will last many years. The more HP and performance motors need better grade clutches normally due to all the power transmitted through them and the heat. For your application and set up...a standard would serve your purpose. That is just my opinion...and I am sure more will chime in with their opinions.
 
J

jbrocks

New Member
#8
#8
Tator, I'm using the same engine, mods and rear sprocket as you. I started initially with the basic Max-Torque clutch and I had problems with the clutch engaging at idle, or staying engaged when I wanted to stop. It was not the idle setting. It was hell figuring that out but switching to the "black" spring solved that.

Later, I had occasion to meet Jim Donovan, owner of Max-Torque, and based on my size (6'4" 215lbs) my engine setup, hilly terrain, and the performance I wanted; he suggested I use the Box Stock/Clone clutch (which engages at a higher rpm) with 11t, PLUS replace the shoes with heavier wedge shape shoes (about $12) for less slip, better grab. This produced all the happiness in the world and killer performance. I use this setup on three of my minibikes.:thumbsup:
 
T

Tator

New Member
#11
#11
jbrocks said:
Tator, I'm using the same engine, mods and rear sprocket as you. I started initially with the basic Max-Torque clutch and I had problems with the clutch engaging at idle, or staying engaged when I wanted to stop. It was not the idle setting. It was hell figuring that out but switching to the "black" spring solved that.

Later, I had occasion to meet Jim Donovan, owner of Max-Torque, and based on my size (6'4" 215lbs) my engine setup, hilly terrain, and the performance I wanted; he suggested I use the Box Stock/Clone clutch (which engages at a higher rpm) with 11t, PLUS replace the shoes with heavier wedge shape shoes (about $12) for less slip, better grab. This produced all the happiness in the world and killer performance. I use this setup on three of my minibikes.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Thanks Jbrocks that sounds like what I will be doing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top