Help! Removed governor then cannot start/very hard to turn engine over... Binds?

#1
Hi all, new member here. About 2 months ago I got a Baja Warrior from a local Tractor Supply Co to have some backyard fun! I loved the riding style/feel of the Warrior and it did very well in the backyard "tracks" I have tried so far.

The stock engine (Honda GX200 clone) almost always started on the first pull and was very easy to turn over with the rope start.

Absolutely no complaints about build quality of the bike at all. However, the top speed was a little slow for me.... (and many others I'm sure). I watched several YT vids and read lots of forum posts to ensure I would use a complete method to remove the governor. I removed both the governor arm and the governor gear inside the case (and associated small parts like their washers, etc). The process involved removing the engine from the frame, removing the flywheel, removing the engine side cover, etc. The two holes in the case where the governor parts went through were plugged with 1/4-20 cap screws (with a little loctite on them). I fashioned a throttle connection using most of the remaining mechanism that came stock with the bike.

Reassembled the engine and went to test fire it up on a stand next to the bike frame.... Boy that thing was hard to turn over!!! I ended up breaking the rope pull start mechanism! I tried quickly google searching for "sources of binding in small engines", but wasn't able to find anything... I then researched how to use a power drill as a starter and was trying that today....I used a method of grinding down a bolt and then force fitting it into a socket that fits the flywheel nut and then securing the other bolt end into the drill.

I almost burned up 2 corded (3-Amp) drills today!!!! There were some points where it seemed like it would spin freely (for maybe 20-30 revolutions) but it never fired up.... And it never seemed to turn as freely as it did when it was stock....

Looking back at the governor removal process, I can't think of what I may have done/damaged that would be causing it to e so hard to turn over and seemingly bound somehow... I made sure to be very careful (even though this is a clone engine and they can be had for $100) because this was the first time I've delved into playing around with engines in such manner... I made sure not o hit the flywheel at all.


The only thing I can think of is that something got tweaked when I was removing the stock flywheel. It was very hard to come off and certainly id not come off with such slight pressure from a large flatblade screwdriver beneath it a slight tap on the flywheel nut threaded onto the shaft... I had to carefully tap the flatblade into the space between the flywheel back and the case and then tap the flywheel nut and do this in a few different places around the wheel b4 it finally popped lose.... Looking at the back of the flywheel after removal it did not seem damaged. I checked it again today for clearance issues with the points and the gap seemed fine - seemed same as before I first removed it....


I am at a loss guys and hope you can help!!

NOTE: I do plan on getting a billet rod and billet flywheel before I started riding the bike with the modded engine installed. I did not install these items yet bc I wanted to see if the engine simply started up again....
 
Last edited:

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#2
Have you removed the spark plug and tried to turn it over by hand? Did you install the flywheel with the key inserted? Did you line up the cam and crank gears correctly? One tooth off make a big difference! If you pull the cam out, did you set the valve lash correctly? Lots of variables here
You mention clearance issues with the points. I don't think you have points!
 
#6
I have to agree with CarplayLB, pull the plug. If it's spins okay, them check the flywheel key. After that it's cam timing or the compression release...


Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...
 
#10
check your valve lash. Did you remove the cam when you did this? If so, check the timing. These guys know their stuff, and their advice seems spot on to me. I know my valve lash was off only a little bit, and I had the same thing happen to me. It nearly ripped my hand off when trying to start it.
 
#11
Loosen your rockers take the cam out and push your lifters all the way up, put the cam in line up the dots then set your rockers it should fire right up
 
#12
Have you removed the spark plug and tried to turn it over by hand? Did you install the flywheel with the key inserted? Did you line up the cam and crank gears correctly? One tooth off make a big difference! If you pull the cam out, did you set the valve lash correctly? Lots of variables here
You mention clearance issues with the points. I don't think you have points!
Thanks for the quick replies everyone. In reading your possible causes, I feel I may have done multiple things wrong....:doah:

When I took the side cover off, I also removed the cam gear/shaft to take a look at it. Upon reinstalling it, I made sure to line up the cam and crank dot to dot and that they meshed properly before putting the cover back on.

I did not know that the valve lash could become messed up by removing/reinstalling the cam. Please enlighten me about what this is and how to adjust it.

When I reinstalled the flywheel, I lined up the key and pressed it on. I did not know that the key piece can be removed. It looked like it was one piece with that end of the crankshaft....


Also, part of my earlier troubleshooting did involve taking the plug out to make sure it wasn't flooded and to ensure there was a spark. It was a lot easier to turn over (both by hand with the pull start before I broke it and with the drill).
 
#13
If you're sure the cam and crank dots are lined up, did the two lifters fall out by any chance ? If so you probably need to pull the valve cover and check the valve lash.
 
#14
How to check valve lash...pull the valve cover and the spark plug, make sure the lash cap is still on top of the exhaust valve. Roll engine over by hand and watch the piston come to the top if both valves and rocker arms are lose thats compression stroke and you can set valve lash now. If the piston is at the top and one valve is down, then roll the piston around again to the top ...both valves or rocker arms should now be lose. Use a feeler gauge and set valve lash to .002 Intake and .003 exhaust. Use the two nuts on top of the rockers to adjust..one on top is a jam nut and the one on the bottom is a adjuster nut . Hope this helps !
 
#17
How to check valve lash...pull the valve cover and the spark plug, make sure the lash cap is still on top of the exhaust valve. Roll engine over by hand and watch the piston come to the top if both valves and rocker arms are lose thats compression stroke and you can set valve lash now. If the piston is at the top and one valve is down, then roll the piston around again to the top ...both valves or rocker arms should now be lose. Use a feeler gauge and set valve lash to .002 Intake and .003 exhaust. Use the two nuts on top of the rockers to adjust..one on top is a jam nut and the one on the bottom is a adjuster nut . Hope this helps !
Thanks for this info. Later today I will check and adjust that.

When I took the cam out, the lifters did fall down. I did take the valve cover off before trying to start the engine to ensure that the rockers were centered over their respective valve spring and pushrod.

I will make sure to watch a few YT vids too on valve lash before I do anything.


Other posters have asked if i put the flywheel back with the key still in the shaft (which I did). How would that cause bind issues?
 
#18
Piston to valve clearance comes to mind Don't forget to check the pushrods it's possible they bent from trying to pull through the bind
Check them on a table just roll them they should roll smooth no wobble
Then set the lash
I would also check the air gap on the coil



Sent from my iPhone using Mores code
 
#19
Piston to valve clearance comes to mind Don't forget to check the pushrods it's possible they bent from trying to pull through the bind
Check them on a table just roll them they should roll smooth no wobble
Then set the lash
I would also check the air gap on the coil



Sent from my iPhone using Mores code
Update from today's attempts:

Current state of engine: valve cover removed, Air intake removed (carb is secured with provided nuts and spacers to slightly snug against the gasket there); blower housing off, flywheel off; side cover off

First thing I did was check the valve lash per above poster's/YT vids instructions. The lash for both valves was fine. I then removed the side cover and looked for any obvious signs of binds/foreign debris inside and couldn't find any.

I removed the flywheel to take a look at it and the key, shaft keyway and flywheel keyway all looked fine. Before removal, the air gap measured in several places between the rim of the wheel and the coil passed the "eyeball test". No obvious signs of bind and I will measure them more closely tomorrow.

I did not check the pushrods to see if they were bent, but plan to do tomorrow.

More observations and symptoms to help diagnosis:

  • There is no discernable endplay in crank when side cover is on
  • Saw some vids where they said at least 10-15 thousands endplay is ok
  • with no side cover, the 3 amp corded drill is able to easily turn over the engine; and furthermore there is noticeable endplay! about 15-20 thousandths by eyeball
  • however with the side cover just simply seated in place (cover bolts not even tight), the drill struggles to turn over the engine
  • I removed the cam and shaft to check the compression release mechanism and everything seemed to be in order there
  • after replacing the cam and rechecking the lash, the engine was again very hard to turn over when the spark plug was put in (I left the side cover off during this "test" and simply applied slight pressure to the camshaft end with my hand to keep it aligned/meshed properly

It seems like maybe the side cover bearing is perhaps putting too much of a drag on the shaft? I don't see how, but perhaps some damage or something occurred when I first removed the flywheel a few days ago...
 
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