I had the same problem a few weeks ago ~ the bike started and got stuck at about 1/2 throttle ~ it did a donut in the garage and threw me off. Mine is an aluminum tube Chinese made (new) replacement throttle that had to be de-burred and sanded smooth then lubed so the return spring would have enough strength to move it to idle position. Yours might need the same attention.
I've bought 2 sets of th OldMiniBikes 1" English made ones and neither have a spring return. neither turn well freely is this normal
Or I did I get bad ones? I figured I would just fart about to make them twist better ad hoped that the heavier spring I've put on the motor end would pull it back.
Buck, what is the point in having that little clip thingy you say to get rid of? I agree that it does not seem like it does any thing really but would just like to know what the intent of that part it.
Or I did I get bad ones? I figured I would just fart about to make them twist better ad hoped that the heavier spring I've put on the motor end would pull it back.
Buck, what is the point in having that little clip thingy you say to get rid of? I agree that it does not seem like it does any thing really but would just like to know what the intent of that part it.
I had that problem with the 7/8 OldMiniBikes setup. Nothing seemed to help. Then I made this...
Giving the cable a straight shot into the housing and not rubbing on metal made all the difference in the world.... the return spring makes it snap back to the off position now.
Giving the cable a straight shot into the housing and not rubbing on metal made all the difference in the world.... the return spring makes it snap back to the off position now.
Michael
It's made of delrin. Slotted on the bottom side you can't see so it slips over the cable, counterbored on the entrance side for the cable sheath to sit in, stepped on the exit side to fit in the throttle housing. A hole thru for the cable itself to go thru.
The problem I had was that the cable entered the housing at an angle, & rubbed on everything along the way. This gives it a straight shot in, & if anything the cable only rubs on slippery delrin.
If you have a sticky throttle problem, try holding the cable so as to give it a straight shot in, you might be surprised. Mine now feels just like a MC throttle.
I made it on my mini lathe but it could easily be made with a drill press & hand tools.
:grind:
The problem I had was that the cable entered the housing at an angle, & rubbed on everything along the way. This gives it a straight shot in, & if anything the cable only rubs on slippery delrin.
If you have a sticky throttle problem, try holding the cable so as to give it a straight shot in, you might be surprised. Mine now feels just like a MC throttle.
I made it on my mini lathe but it could easily be made with a drill press & hand tools.
:grind:
I had this problem AFTER I reinstalled a twist grip on a bike I painted, that worked fine before i took it off. Turns out like others said the bar was too tight against the plastic tube for the spring on the throttle to pull back. I did take care not to push it all the way onto the fork but appently it wasn't enough as once everything was tightened down the housing was still pulling the plastic tube against the fork. I wound up backing the screws out just a tad and gently tapping the whole assembly outward from the fork, tightening and checking for free movement. Took about 2 or 3 tries till I got it right. Most surprising was that there was a line in the new paint where I first though it was set correctly and once I found the right "spot" I was about an eighth inch out from there. As others stated the plastic is cheap and has alot of slop, and when you tighten down it seemed (for me anyway) to clamp everything down better and pull the plastic inward.
Just to clarify - my friction point was between the end of the bar and the inside end of a solid tube, the tube spun freely on the painted bar when not in the assembly. I also had a hollow tube and had to take care to install that so that when tightened (and the tube pulled inward slightly) the bar did not protrude out past the end of the tube - thus the installed grip would then bind. Sorry I wish I would have taken pictures to explain better.
Kacz
Just to clarify - my friction point was between the end of the bar and the inside end of a solid tube, the tube spun freely on the painted bar when not in the assembly. I also had a hollow tube and had to take care to install that so that when tightened (and the tube pulled inward slightly) the bar did not protrude out past the end of the tube - thus the installed grip would then bind. Sorry I wish I would have taken pictures to explain better.
Kacz