so my briggs is in desperate need of a rebuild and im not in the position to perform that task anytime soon, and well I was at the local slick kart track in Oregon the other day and happened to drive a kart with a HF clone engine in it, needless to say I liked the power delivery and torqyness so much I have decided to purchase a clone motor for my minibike. Like many before me on this site I do have some questions, I was looking at getting this motor from ARC DJ-1015 and wanted to know what you guys think? If I remember correctly I read on somewhere on here that the clone motors come with a plastic cam? please correct me if im wrong and also if you remove the gov that its a good Idea to put a billet rod in. I guess this is a question to ask ARC but if they removed the gov on the motor I listed do you think that they put a billet rod in or left the stock one in,they dont give very good details about it, also has anyone had a problem with their TAV hitting on a candy cane header?. I was also thinking about just buying a stock HF clone and disconnecting the oil sensor and riding the piss out of it. any advice is is aprecciated thanks. :thumbsup:
I'd go ahead and go with one of the package 1's from nr-racing, they seem to be the most bang for the buck I've found.
NR-Racing.com
Oh, and btw what area of oregon do ya live in?
NR-Racing.com
Oh, and btw what area of oregon do ya live in?
Jay,
Welcome. You are confused about the governor gear. It is a plastic gear. The cam must be steel. The Arc billet connecting rod w/ bearing will insure the weak point of the motor is beefed up. For go karts it's a must. For Mini Bikes that weigh less, there is less stress on the rod. Heavy springs also need to be installed. 18 lb. for mild engines, 26 lb, for full mods. Take out the Governor and read Affordable Go Karts - Home page - AGK - http://www.affordablegokarts.com site for directions. www.nr-racing.com is building my motor, no tax and free shipping..CA and OR.
It is critical to know TDC and how to remove the oil sensor, plug the hole with a self tapper screw, plastic governor gear and clip holding the plastic gear on so, read first and perhaps have a new gasket. I run Mobil 1 synthetic 5-30 wt.
Do not forget to set the valves at TDC both valves loose and dots lined up on crank and cam. Take off side cover and ask more questions you don't understand. :smile:
TT out shopping rust! :thumbsup:
Welcome. You are confused about the governor gear. It is a plastic gear. The cam must be steel. The Arc billet connecting rod w/ bearing will insure the weak point of the motor is beefed up. For go karts it's a must. For Mini Bikes that weigh less, there is less stress on the rod. Heavy springs also need to be installed. 18 lb. for mild engines, 26 lb, for full mods. Take out the Governor and read Affordable Go Karts - Home page - AGK - http://www.affordablegokarts.com site for directions. www.nr-racing.com is building my motor, no tax and free shipping..CA and OR.
It is critical to know TDC and how to remove the oil sensor, plug the hole with a self tapper screw, plastic governor gear and clip holding the plastic gear on so, read first and perhaps have a new gasket. I run Mobil 1 synthetic 5-30 wt.
Do not forget to set the valves at TDC both valves loose and dots lined up on crank and cam. Take off side cover and ask more questions you don't understand. :smile:
TT out shopping rust! :thumbsup:
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Green Jelly I live in California, but I was in the Medford, Ashland, and Grants Pass area in Southern Oregon visiting family. I found out more info on the ARC motor it has the gov removed with the stock rod and nylon cam gear left in. Tacoterminator do you know if your NR racing motor comes with a fuel pump? I dont mind spending the extra money to get the ARC motor thats just a bolt in and go kind of deal. I am leaning away from getting a box stock clone and doing the work myself because its less of a headache and more practical to get one of the kit motors that already have everything done for you.
thanks again guys :thumbsup:
thanks again guys :thumbsup:
If you got the money get the best you can buy. But if you think it's less of a headache you are in for a surprise. Engines break, parts come loose, and there's maintenance. Again if you got the money go for it. A nice thing about building your own engine is you get a feel for it. Are you okay riding 20+ miles and something comes loose?
For $300 plus shipping just go to a HF and get an engine on sale, usually $109-$129, and for the other $200+ you will spend on that engine with shipping you could get a billet rod, cam, valve springs, mikuni carb, flat top piston and have a lot better engine.... $300 for a stock engine with a nylon cam, stock rod and just an air filter, crappy muffler is a bit over the top IMO... My HF stock clones both came steel cams..... didn't know they used plastic cams but you sure don't want one for any kind of abuse...
The lash on the lash on the valves may change after break in so they will need to be reset... It's not a bad idea to use green loctite on rod bolts, intake bolts, head bolts... DONT use the red, you'll have one heck of a time getting it back apart..Pretty much loctite all the bolts except the valve cover...
125 thanks for the offer but I think im going to purchase a HF clone in Oregon for $100 when they go on sale again and remove the oil sensor and gov. is it nessasary to install 18lb springs or can I get by with the stock ones? also I dont plan on installing a billet rod because I only use my minibike about 4 times a year at race events and it only revs to about 5000 in the dirt, oh and if you remove the stock tank do you have to run a fuel pump?
here are the parts I want to put on my clone
here are the parts I want to put on my clone
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you don't need to run 18lb springs if you remove the gov. without it you'll encounter valve float with the stock springs. it would be a good idea to get some if you're already buying parts. they're only an extra $8 and easy to install.
as for the tank, as long as it's above the carb you'll be fine with it gravity feeding.
as for the tank, as long as it's above the carb you'll be fine with it gravity feeding.