Moe's Motovox drag mini.

#61
[MENTION=57637]moetrout[/MENTION] , use the stud kit , I put studs a tad past 17 ft lbs and used Red Loc-tite on the studs and on the nuts , I blew an engine ( well the block anyways ) at Mini Bike Mania the same way , I know my shit was torqued but with a ton of HP it blew all the bolts loose . That dang Goat Guy :laugh: But nobody caught him Thursday night :doah:
 
#62
Well, in my own defense I did say I referenced a video made by Eric at OMB. I have also emailed him to let him know of a potential mistake. Eric is a great guy and I fault nobody but myself. Time to remove those bolts redo the locktite and retorque them to 17 ft/lbs.
I didn't know Eric had made a mistake. I assumed that SAS289 made a mistake and posted head torques for side cover torques. I have never touched a Predator, and I was not the one who mentioned the torque in the first place!

I do know who on OMB are "great guys" and who are not. My ONLY point in even posting in this thread was your comment that you shouldn't use Loctite, and me correcting that comment.

Thanks Moe, Dave is loving this!
Your comments in the video matched the specifications posted on OMB's website. I did not post them here as evidence of something "wrong," only that Moe used the right values. How in the hell do I know what the torque values are for a Predator? This is too funny! I post OMB numbers here as PROOF you did it right in the video, and you and Moe are on my ass!

The fact that you would assume I posted OMB's published specifications here was an effort to discredit you speaks volumes. I have no wish to see you fail. Even if I knew your video and the OMB published numbers were wrong, I would have kept my mouth shut, like I have done on several other issues here, all the way around.
 
#63
Got everything torqued, a couple of short runs, then retorqued and now feeling much better about it. I finally hit it good and hard and the tach said 6480 rpm at which point I had to let off because the gas tank let go and slid backwards into my lap! Time to fix that issue for good and down to the farm I go for a couple of spot welds. I am still shooting for 7000 rpm!
 
#64
I have fitted a proper gas tank mount! Sucks that I had to weld on it after having painted, but I taped it off and redid the paint on just the top rails. I think it turned out pretty good! I bought some rubber bushings too. I should have the tank remounted tonight and take another test run.
 
#65
One thing I bought a long time ago that really helps is a heavy duty welding blanket. Double fold it and put it on top of that motor and sparks won’t get to it. This is one reason I left my bike in primer lol having to go back and weld on the frame. In fact I had to go back and weld on gas tank bracket myself same as you. And also notch one of the upper bars for spark plug.

Are you going to need wheelie bars on this bike? Maybe not since motor is so far forward?
 
#66
One thing I bought a long time ago that really helps is a heavy duty welding blanket. Double fold it and put it on top of that motor and sparks won’t get to it. This is one reason I left my bike in primer lol having to go back and weld on the frame. In fact I had to go back and weld on gas tank bracket myself same as you. And also notch one of the upper bars for spark plug.

Are you going to need wheelie bars on this bike? Maybe not since motor is so far forward?
The rear wheel has been relocated 7 inches back and 3 inch up (lowered the frame) . No wheelie bars needed. When I watch the mini bike drag videos there a lots of guys with cool looking wheelie bars but most of them never raise the front wheel and don't need them. To me it was just added weight. Weight has been a big consideration in everything I have done to this bike.
 
#67
The rear wheel has been relocated 7 inches back and 3 inch up (lowered the frame) . No wheelie bars needed. When I watch the mini bike drag videos there a lots of guys with cool looking wheelie bars but most of them never raise the front wheel and don't need them. To me it was just added weight. Weight has been a big consideration in everything I have done to this bike.
Only reason I ask is my 100ft drag bike is on the bars the entire 100ft. But I am running stock Arco frame not stretched not widened. Rear wheel was raised about an inch, front raised 3”. My wheelie bars are super light as well very thin tubing and built to flex a little bit. My bike was only like 80lb with centri clutch but is now about 100lb with Polar clutch setup.

It’s prob better to not need the bars to be honest, more stuff to go wrong lol
But if you don’t need them, no reason to have them like you said.

With 1/8 mile the gearing on a centrifugal clutch for top end means a slower take off so you prob don’t need them.
 
#68
Only reason I ask is my 100ft drag bike is on the bars the entire 100ft. But I am running stock Arco frame not stretched not widened. Rear wheel was raised about an inch, front raised 3”. My wheelie bars are super light as well very thin tubing and built to flex a little bit. My bike was only like 80lb with centri clutch but is now about 100lb with Polar clutch setup.

It’s prob better to not need the bars to be honest, more stuff to go wrong lol
But if you don’t need them, no reason to have them like you said.

With 1/8 mile the gearing on a centrifugal clutch for top end means a slower take off so you prob don’t need them.
Not yet. It seems like a lot of the guys that need them drag racing are using a TAV. I may explore that option in the future. For this year I am just trying to get my bike to do 60+ in the 1/8 mile at 7000 rpms. I believe I can do that with my cheapo Max Torque clutch. Beyond that I think I will need a better setup.
 
#69
Oh yeah you should see 60mph in the 1/8 no problem. Bike looks great and will run strong no doubt.
I think you may end up seeing the shortcomings of a fixed gear ratio, if you decide to take it further.
It’s always a compromise between launch and top end. But with variable ratio there is no compromise, you can have both.

That is just my experience going down that rabbit hole, sounds like you are off to a great start.
 
#70
Gas tank was mounted last night with rubber bushings. Took it out for a test run on a bumpy road and the chain bounced off. I put it back on and then went to start the bike and the 3 out of 4 bolts for the pull starter shroud had vibrated out. I am off to the hardware store for replacements and maybe a couple of spares. I will now be looking for what else might vibrate off so I can put locktite on all these bolts.
 

I74

Active Member
#72
Love the blue paint, moetrout ! :thumbsup:

What's the brand & color description by chance ??
Pretty much the color I have planned for on my MM80 frame.
 
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#80
No, I go watch the live band on Fridays at the OG in Milan. Besides that my shit still is not ready for the track. My motor developed a oil leak, I believe it's the crank seal behind the fly wheel. My chain tensioner does not work and the chain comes off. I am going to remake that using steel instead of aluminum and a threaded rod to hold tension instead of the spring I am using. I also suspect my motor plate is flexing so I am going to weld steel ribs on the bottom of the plate. I hope to have it ready for the super Saturday race at
Milan on August 11th.
 

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