Moe's Motovox drag mini.

#41
Dukmang,

I like my motovox. I like the lines of the frame and I think it's form is good for a drag bike. I got the brake cable routed and connected last night. I took some better pics this time. A kill switch and chain and I will take it out for the first ride since last year. June 30th is the next race out at Milan Dragway. I will be ready by then and hopefully with some time on the bike to work out the bugs.
 
#45
Made more progress this weekend and had some set backs. Got it together and took it for 3 short rides up the driveway and back, making small adjustments each time. Fourth time I look down to see oil coming out of the side cover. I know for a fact I torqued those bolts to 95 in/lbs. All of the bolts were loose. I retorqued them to 110 in/lbs, took it for a short ride and then checked the torque. They all started to loosen up again. A side cover stud kit is on the way from OMB. I hope that solves the problem. For now I did what I have always read you should not do and put blue locktite on the bolts. I did that last night and put it away to make sure the locktite sets up. I will hit it again tonight. Below is a pic of the chain tensioner I made up using the old motovox chain roller. I had to adjust the spring tension some. I won't know it this works until I ride the bike again tonight.
 
#46
For now I did what I have always read you should not do and put blue locktite on the bolts. I did that last night and put it away to make sure the locktite sets up. I will hit it again tonight.
That is a confusing statement Moe. Who told you not to use Loctite on your side cover bolts, and what was the reason given?
 
#48
That is a confusing statement Moe. Who told you not to use Loctite on your side cover bolts, and what was the reason given?
Well, I could not name names now, but seems like I've read a lot of comments basically saying if you properly torque those bolts no locktite is needed. Do you locktite on your side cover bolts Dave? I should know tonight if that fixed my issue, but either way I am still going to stud the side cover and will probably do the head too if/when I ever need to take it off again.
 
#49
I really like how it came together. Very straight forward stretch. I'm assuming you made the forks? Did you make the triple trees as well?
Thanks man! Yes the forks we made. We reused the triples. The old forks were really too wide for the little pocket bike wheel so I redrilled just inside of the old fork tubes. In hind sight I wish I had just remade everything. It would not have taken that much more time and I would then have a spare set of forks for the bike or another project. Got to get the bugs worked out this week. The next race at Milan Dragway is June 30th and I plan to be there!
 
#50
Well, I could not name names now, but seems like I've read a lot of comments basically saying if you properly torque those bolts no locktite is needed. Do you locktite on your side cover bolts Dave? I should know tonight if that fixed my issue, but either way I am still going to stud the side cover and will probably do the head too if/when I ever need to take it off again.
There is a big difference between someone telling you that "you should not" use Loctite on your side cover, and someone saying "you shouldn't need to." I agree with the later if using lock washers. But these days, I pretty much Loctite everything.

Note that according to ARP, the application of Loctite on steel bolts going in to aluminum threads will serve as an anti-galling compound.

Your fasteners were loose in your side cover. That should tell you all you need to know Moe.
 
#51
Well, I could not name names now, but seems like I've read a lot of comments basically saying if you properly torque those bolts no locktite is needed. Do you locktite on your side cover bolts Dave? I should know tonight if that fixed my issue, but either way I am still going to stud the side cover and will probably do the head too if/when I ever need to take it off again.
95 in/lbs? I thought the side cover got 17 ft/lbs which is about 205 in/lbs ?

And I can't think of any reason that a mild locktite like 242 shouldn't be used there. You don't have to use it, but it wouldn't hurt anything if you did.
 
#52
95 in/lbs? I thought the side cover got 17 ft/lbs which is about 205 in/lbs ?

And I can't think of any reason that a mild locktite like 242 shouldn't be used there. You don't have to use it, but it wouldn't hurt anything if you did.
Ok, just last Thursday CarPlayLB (Eric) put together a predator on his facebook live show. I could not remember the torque spec so I referred back to his video and he stated 94 in/lbs.

Start at 28:40 into the video he says 94 in/lbs:

https://www.facebook.com/OMBWarehouse/videos/2145800188831875/

Which is it? 94 in/lbs or 17 ft/lbs? If it's 17 ft/lbs then that probably explains my problems.
 
#54
Forget where I found it, but I used 17ft-lbs

I am moving the 30th...maybe i'll be done in time to head to Milan. Haven't been out since I've warmed over my hemi...
 
Last edited:
#55
Now wait a minute.

Eric says 94 inch pounds in his video, and OMB has these specifications posted:

When re-assembling the Predator 212cc engines, use the following torque specs
Connecting rod (stock): 108 inch lbs
Side cover bolts: 94 inch lbs
Head bolts: 17 foot lbs or 204 inch lbs
Rocker studs: 17 foot lbs or 204 inch lbs (NOT rocker arm adjusters!)
Rocker adjuster nuts: 94 inch lbs
Flywheel nut: 54 foot lbs

:laugh:

Moe, go on ebay and buy the biggest bottle of Loctite blue 242 you can find. Then use it. And stop using specs buried in internet forums. Use a book, or a trusted source, like ARP, OMB, etc. Then you can fault them if it's wrong.
 

SAT

Active Member
#56
Moe,
It’s worth it to minimize the galling and loss of thread profile. Threaded bolts and machine screws easily disassemble for me when heated a bit with a vintage pistol grip soldering gun or a pinpoint mini torch.
Hope this helps, see you in Milan.
What time Saturday?
Steve
 
#57
Moe,
It’s worth it to minimize the galling and loss of thread profile. Threaded bolts and machine screws easily disassemble for me when heated a bit with a vintage pistol grip soldering gun or a pinpoint mini torch.
Hope this helps, see you in Milan.
What time Saturday?
Steve
Gates open at 2pm, test and tune starts at 3pm, eliminations start at 7pm. I will be there when the gates open.
 
#58
Now wait a minute.

Eric says 94 inch pounds in his video, and OMB has these specifications posted:

When re-assembling the Predator 212cc engines, use the following torque specs
Connecting rod (stock): 108 inch lbs
Side cover bolts: 94 inch lbs
Head bolts: 17 foot lbs or 204 inch lbs
Rocker studs: 17 foot lbs or 204 inch lbs (NOT rocker arm adjusters!)
Rocker adjuster nuts: 94 inch lbs
Flywheel nut: 54 foot lbs

:laugh:

Moe, go on ebay and buy the biggest bottle of Loctite blue 242 you can find. Then use it. And stop using specs buried in internet forums. Use a book, or a trusted source, like ARP, OMB, etc. Then you can fault them if it's wrong.
Well, in my own defense I did say I referenced a video made by Eric at OMB. I have also emailed him to let him know of a potential mistake. Eric is a great guy and I fault nobody but myself. Time to remove those bolts redo the locktite and retorque them to 17 ft/lbs.
 
#59
Wait a minute Ladies! The Gray Goat may have been mistaken. I researched several well know sites for those specs. BUT! I digress and will be the first to tell you when I am wrong.
I AM WRONG!
The OEM Honda spec for a GX200 is at 17 FOOT pounds for the side cover bolts

My apologies [MENTION=57637]moetrout[/MENTION]
 
#60
Now wait a minute.

Eric says 94 inch pounds in his video, and OMB has these specifications posted:

When re-assembling the Predator 212cc engines, use the following torque specs
Connecting rod (stock): 108 inch lbs
Side cover bolts: 94 inch lbs
Head bolts: 17 foot lbs or 204 inch lbs
Rocker studs: 17 foot lbs or 204 inch lbs (NOT rocker arm adjusters!)
Rocker adjuster nuts: 94 inch lbs
Flywheel nut: 54 foot lbs

:laugh:

Moe, go on ebay and buy the biggest bottle of Loctite blue 242 you can find. Then use it. And stop using specs buried in internet forums. Use a book, or a trusted source, like ARP, OMB, etc. Then you can fault them if it's wrong.
Thanks Moe, Dave is loving this!
 

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