Old Comet Driven unit Stuck

Mark G

Mark G

#5
#5
2SlickNick said:
Anyone have experience with these older driven units?
Click to expand...

Yep, sure do. Take an old jack shaft and chuck it in your bench vice, then slide the driven unit on it. (make sure you use a keyway so it won't spin). Now wrap a strap wrench around the cam and turn counter clockwise and use a GOOD penetrating oil like PB blaster or Aerokroil (not WD40). You may have to work it back and forth a litte bit at first but it is meant to come off.
 
2SlickNick

2SlickNick

Well-Known Member
#6
#6
Mark G said:
Yep, sure do. Take an old jack shaft and chuck it in your bench vice, then slide the driven unit on it. (make sure you use a keyway so it won't spin). Now wrap a strap wrench around the cam and turn counter clockwise and use a GOOD penetrating oil like PB blaster or Aerokroil (not WD40). You may have to work it back and forth a litte bit at first but it is meant to come off.
Click to expand...
thank you!!!!!
I will try that soon. Thanks again I will post with update when I get home tomorrow.
 
2SlickNick

2SlickNick

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
Yay!
It does unscrew Joker and thank you again Mark!
I did as you said except after strap wrench slipping some I gave it a few taps with hammer and it came loose.
Now on to cleaning and replacing the spring. Do you think I can just replace with a new spring from the newer 20 series inboards? or are they different size?
 
thejoker

thejoker

#9
#9
Man I'm good lol. I literally have never messed with one before. I have a million Comet parts thought. I bought what was left from a kart shop that closed. Let me know if you need any thing. I'm sick of tripping on the stuff.lol
 
2SlickNick

2SlickNick

Well-Known Member
#10
#10
thejoker said:
Man I'm good lol. I literally have never messed with one before. I have a million Comet parts thought. I bought what was left from a kart shop that closed. Let me know if you need any thing. I'm sick of tripping on the stuff.lol
Click to expand...
Lol!
I am always looking for torque converter stuff.
Would you guys happen to know if the 1" bore driver is suppose to come with the brass bushing ( the belt sits on )like the newer ones?
Mine didn't come with it.
And the belt actually wore about a 1mm indention into the stationary sheave.
 
Docdc

Docdc

#12
#12
2SlickNick said:
Lol!
I am always looking for torque converter stuff.
Would you guys happen to know if the 1" bore driver is suppose to come with the brass bushing ( the belt sits on )like the newer ones?
Mine didn't come with it.
And the belt actually wore about a 1mm indention into the stationary sheave.
Click to expand...
I've spoke several times with a gentleman from Comet. He has told me on several occasions that the 1" bore drivers do NOT need a bushing and there isn't one made for it. The 3/4" bore units need them. I've been all over the internet searching for that 1" bushing and it appears it never existed.

This is just my experience.

Doc
 
2SlickNick

2SlickNick

Well-Known Member
#14
#14
Docdc said:
I've spoke several times with a gentleman from Comet. He has told me on several occasions that the 1" bore drivers do NOT need a bushing and there isn't one made for it. The 3/4" bore units need them. I've been all over the internet searching for that 1" bushing and it appears it never existed.

This is just my experience.

Doc
Click to expand...
Huhhhh......
weird.
If you look at at my vid approx 20 seconds in the driver is engaged at idle ( that is what I thought the bushing was for....
Honestly I am considering selling the 8hp tec and putting a 6.5hp un-gov predator on the mud bug.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6V8wZGYxJ0
 
Docdc

Docdc

#15
#15
2SlickNick said:
Huhhhh......
weird.
If you look at at my vid approx 20 seconds in the driver is engaged at idle ( that is what I thought the bushing was for....
Honestly I am considering selling the 8hp tec and putting a 6.5hp un-gov predator on the mud bug.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6V8wZGYxJ0
Click to expand...
Hey Nick,

Let's think about this. I looked at the video and at 20 seconds and again later there are good views of the driver. The driver is not engaged. The sheaves are fully apart at idle. The reason the driven is moving can be from one of two things. First, the belt may not be the correct length (too short) causing too much friction at idle and putting forceful energy into the driven. The other reason (if it is the correct belt) is that you have no resistance on the drive train therefore the driven will spin. I can go out in the garage and take the chain off of any of the converters and the driven will turn without that resistance on it. Put the chain on and the driven will not rotate until the driver sheaves begin to close at rpm. I absolutely don't recommend doing this but I have taken my hand and stopped the driven at idle. With no chain and no resistance, it will always spin.

I cannot for the life of me remember why the Comet guy told me the 1" did not require a bushing but the easy route would be to call Ron Kimbal at Powertec and he will tell you there is no bushing in the 1" but most important he will tell you why. As I get older my memory fades a little and I wish I could remember for you.

Doc
 
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