Predator 212... still not working right

F

Firebutt

New Member
#1
#1
First of all, thank you to all the people who have taken their time to help me, I've put up 4 or so of these posts so far because I honestly cannot figure out what's wrong with my engine.

So if you've followed my posts, or tried to help me, so far this is what has happened.

- The engine wouldn't start. This was fixed by me figuring out that I had to give it some throttle.
- Then the engine died when I stopped giving it throttle, it wouldn't idle.
- Then I turned in the idle screw and it came alive, but it only idled when the choke was engaged, when it was set to "run" the engine revved up and started going.
- I was told it could be the clutch, so I lubed the clutch, and the chain, and took of the clutch to check, and the clutch wasn't stuck or anything...

So my problem has been idling this whole time, and now that the clutch is off, I tried experimenting.

I left the idle screw where it was, and then started the engine, it started on the first pull with the choke engaged, then I flipped it to "run" and the engine revved up all the way by itself... I stopped the engine immediately because it seemed as if the engine was going to max out.

I then tried various positions of the idle screw, starting with screwing it out a lot then in slow increments in until I found a place where it would start without sputtering. Then I did the same, I turned the choke lever to "run" and it revved out again, causing me to stop the engine.

Then I turned the idle screw out a bit, and engaged the choke halfway, because it shouldn't rev up, right? Nope. This time a flame shoots out of the exhaust making a loud popping noise, and scares me half to death, leaving me back at the beginning with an engine that doesn't idle when on "run"


So what could my problem be? Sorry for the long post, I just felt as if you should know what I've tried before helping me.
Once again, Thanks!!!
 
gumpit

gumpit

#3
#3
I would let it run with the choke on until it is warm. Then turn the idle all the way down and try to start it in the run position. Just keep turning the idle up until it starts and idles.. Let it cool and see if it starts with the choke. If it does you know you can turn it to run and it will be at idle.
 
creia

creia

#4
#4
trinik7597 said:
how long have you had it ??? and is it all stock ??? i would say take it back and exchange it for another :thumbsup: if you can
Click to expand...
X 2 ^^^^ Quit screwing around with it.
Some of these HF engines are duds. We have had 2 that ended up going back and the replacement/exchange engines started, idled, and ran perfectly.
Michael
 
F

Firebutt

New Member
#5
#5
The engine is around 8 months old, but I bought it with the bike, from the previous owner, around 2 months ago. Therefore I don't have the receipt... and I don't have a way to return it...

For now I'm going to try what gumpit said, as it sounds way more logical than what I was trying to do
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#6
#6
go buy a new one !! stick that one in the box and return it :laugh: only joking but it is hard to tell from what you are describing and you dont know what the previous owner did to it . sounds more like the gov might have been messed with than the carb . ihow is the throttle hooked up ? does it still have the stock lever on it ?
 
Go_Mizzou99

Go_Mizzou99

New Member
#7
#7
gumpit said:
I would let it run with the choke on until it is warm. Then turn the idle all the way down and try to start it in the run position. Just keep turning the idle up until it starts and idles.. Let it cool and see if it starts with the choke. If it does you know you can turn it to run and it will be at idle.
Click to expand...
I have to do this (above) with one of the Murray Trak 2 minibikes I am redoing. I am bringing it to a small engine repair shop next week because I don't have the time to rebuild the carb. I am pretty sure the float is roached along with the rest of the carb...safe bet when the air filter looked like this:

 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#8
#8
Go_Mizzou99 said:
I have to do this (above) with one of the Murray Trak 2 minibikes I am redoing. I am bringing it to a small engine repair shop next week because I don't have the time to rebuild the carb. I am pretty sure the float is roached along with the rest of the carb...safe bet when the air filter looked like this:
Click to expand...
hell of a lot cheaper to just buy a new carb rather than taking it to a shop :thumbsup:
 
naterater

naterater

Member
#9
#9
i use a 22mm mikuni carb on my pred , and they can be a pain in the arse. i have considered getting a tillotson, but im not rich. one thing i noticed if i used a cheap curved manifold for the carb , the intake gasket doesnt fit properly and causes gas to back up in the manifold and acummulate somewhat. your problem most likely is the governor , the crappy part is i cant remember exactly what causes this , ive had it happen too, but i do know its related to the governor assembly and throttle linkage. you may have to replace a piece or remove it completely, warning though if you take it out, you had better get a aluminum flywheel and piston rod, you dont want your leg blown off and a piston where the sun dont shine. check for cracks on the head and block , these hf engines are notorious for cracking from shock , and if your engine is already modded , check it for cracks everytime before you start it. usually the puddle of oil underneath the bike says it all but sometimes they crack on top.these hf engines pump out great power but are like women, high maintenance.
 
naterater

naterater

Member
#10
#10
at first when i saw the pic of that air filter , 1st thought was huh mine are pretty clean 2nd thought was how many packs of cigarettes did that bike smoke? looks like the carb might have cancer xD
 
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