Rupp 2 Speed clutches exact copys
They are a close copy to the original 1969 Roadster, with some very slight improvements; obviously they use modern day clutch technology, but with the same second gear shift point! The distance between 1st and 2nd gear has been opened up slightly, so the master links will no longer rub together. Lastly, the key is not built into the sleeve like the original one, it is a separate part.
All of the original parts from a 1969 Roadster will interchange with this reproduction set up. The 2nd gear clutch and drive sprocket use a roll pin the secure them just like the original.
The set up will come completely assembled on the jackshaft, with both clutches, and all hardware and installation instructions. The only thing the buyer will have to supply is the two out side frame 5/8 bearings, and the two chains.
All of the original parts from a 1969 Roadster will interchange with this reproduction set up. The 2nd gear clutch and drive sprocket use a roll pin the secure them just like the original.
The set up will come completely assembled on the jackshaft, with both clutches, and all hardware and installation instructions. The only thing the buyer will have to supply is the two out side frame 5/8 bearings, and the two chains.
Hey..just chiming in on this based on memory
The Lil Indian and Rupp original 2 speed set ups utilized a one way roller clutch bearing in the 1st gear sprocket.( there are 2 styles of roller clutch bearings). The bearings with basically 3 sets of needles within the width of the bearing are best. Stay clear of the single type needles. This would require thrust type bearing washers on the outside of the sprocket. To take care of axial load on the bearing and shaft. Operation of the first gear: Locks up in forward motion to get the jackshaft in the 2800 + RPM range. When this is realized, the centrifigul force of the secondary clutch overides the 1st gear hence shifting into second speed. At this point, the 1st gear free wheels until the RPM drops. i.e. going up a hill. On flat surfaces the secondary clutch will remain engaged. ( top end speed). If using a roller clutch type bearing, it is important to know that the shaft surface the ID of the bearing rides on requires a specific Rockwell C hardness as well as knowing what the final surface finish of the shaft or adaptor should be. Tolerances are tight.
My opinion: This type of set up exceeds the Comet 2 speed unit whick utlizes the sprag type 1st gear and a secondary clutch which has exposed shoes that would allow dirt etc. to enter the clutch area and reduce performance.
The Lil Indian and Rupp original 2 speed set ups utilized a one way roller clutch bearing in the 1st gear sprocket.( there are 2 styles of roller clutch bearings). The bearings with basically 3 sets of needles within the width of the bearing are best. Stay clear of the single type needles. This would require thrust type bearing washers on the outside of the sprocket. To take care of axial load on the bearing and shaft. Operation of the first gear: Locks up in forward motion to get the jackshaft in the 2800 + RPM range. When this is realized, the centrifigul force of the secondary clutch overides the 1st gear hence shifting into second speed. At this point, the 1st gear free wheels until the RPM drops. i.e. going up a hill. On flat surfaces the secondary clutch will remain engaged. ( top end speed). If using a roller clutch type bearing, it is important to know that the shaft surface the ID of the bearing rides on requires a specific Rockwell C hardness as well as knowing what the final surface finish of the shaft or adaptor should be. Tolerances are tight.
My opinion: This type of set up exceeds the Comet 2 speed unit whick utlizes the sprag type 1st gear and a secondary clutch which has exposed shoes that would allow dirt etc. to enter the clutch area and reduce performance.
I understand the gear with the sprag, that's first. The clutch on the jack shaft is what is confusing me, the second gear chain off the engine clutch should be driving the frictions (the innerds) on the jack shaft, not the drum (the outside) The drum should be driving the jack shaft for second gear when the frictions get up to engagement RPM.
Different clutches are a possibility, but, right now to keep the price down we are going to stay with the stock 2nd gear clutch. I am going to offer optional rear drive gears.
If interested please email me, pdlsa10@aol.com. As of now, I am only making 25 sets, if I have enough demand, I will make an additional run.
I really put a lot of pride in making sure that these parts are of the highest quality possible. The machinist I am working with Jim, has many years of experience and exceptionally high standards. Also Jim from Max Torque has been extremely helpful determining the correct clutch configurations to make the setup work as it did originally. They are both real great guys! I appreciate them helping me make available these parts to help in the restoration of minibikes, and letting the next generation experience American engineering!
If interested please email me, pdlsa10@aol.com. As of now, I am only making 25 sets, if I have enough demand, I will make an additional run.
I really put a lot of pride in making sure that these parts are of the highest quality possible. The machinist I am working with Jim, has many years of experience and exceptionally high standards. Also Jim from Max Torque has been extremely helpful determining the correct clutch configurations to make the setup work as it did originally. They are both real great guys! I appreciate them helping me make available these parts to help in the restoration of minibikes, and letting the next generation experience American engineering!
