Here you go, guys. I'm waiting to totally finish before I post more pictures and a video. I'm making some changes to the pedals in order to get them more accessible to my feet. When done, I'll post pics and a video. By the way, the seat is not so pinkish as it appears in the pictures. Charles, what does "12.5k views" refer to?
Here you go, guys. I'm waiting to totally finish before I post more pictures and a video. I'm making some changes to the pedals in order to get them more accessible to my feet. When done, I'll post pics and a video. By the way, the seat is not so pinkish as it appears in the pictures. Charles, what does "12.5k views" refer to?
It's a straight through muffler so it wouldn't do much muffling, but it would look good!
In the "Projects & Rides" index, it provides number of replies and views.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/projects-and-rides/
In the "Projects & Rides" index, it provides number of replies and views.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/projects-and-rides/
OND, jeep, and dmetalf69, thanks a lot for your comments. Jeep, I don't know about how well it works yet but maybe tomorrow I'll be ready to take it for a spin. Since I finished putting all of the pieces together I found I needed help to get the bike off of the workbench. So I got a bike lift from Harbor Freight, #61632 (there is another that looks like this one but doesn't go as low). Less than a hundred bucks plus a trip to the hardware store for a missing screw, and it works great for my purposes.
I have ridden the bike several times and there is more than enough power, to say the least. The engine has always started instantaneously and after some carb tweaking the engine runs great. If I had it to do again, I would probably go with 80 or 100cc max. Drop the clutch a little too quickly and it wheel stands right now.
As the pictures show I've modified the pedals, and they work fine now. The shift lever is longer, and its now 1/4" instead of 1/8" thick in order to prevent it from twisting. The brake pedal end is now larger.
Art first I thought the chain tensioner spring was supposed to be active in tensioning the chain so I left it slightly loose. Wow, it was like driving a car with completely shot U-joints. It works much better when using the spring as a pre-tensioner and then tightening the tensioner solid. I built in some adjustment slots for the tensioner spring end and lucked out with the middle slot being just right. Now I need to add a toothed or Nord lock washer to the chain tensioner bolt as it slips a little no matter how tight I make it.
When I turn off the ignition the engine keeps running. I need to replace the single-pole ignition switch with a double-pole type so that the charging circuit, along with the battery supplied 12 volts, can both be disconnected in the off position. The kill switch is connected to the ignition module and works fine.
The "neutral" LED light failed. I used the recommended resistor in series with it but it was super bright. I suspect one will last longer with more resistance.
Lastly, the tachometer appears to program properly for single-cylinder use but doesn't work. The wiring diagram shows that the trigger input should be connected to the negative side of the coil. That also happens to be ground, which seems wrong to me. I'm going to give Speedhut an old fashioned phone call and see if someone is available to discuss this.
I hope to have my girlfriend take a video this weekend.
As the pictures show I've modified the pedals, and they work fine now. The shift lever is longer, and its now 1/4" instead of 1/8" thick in order to prevent it from twisting. The brake pedal end is now larger.
Art first I thought the chain tensioner spring was supposed to be active in tensioning the chain so I left it slightly loose. Wow, it was like driving a car with completely shot U-joints. It works much better when using the spring as a pre-tensioner and then tightening the tensioner solid. I built in some adjustment slots for the tensioner spring end and lucked out with the middle slot being just right. Now I need to add a toothed or Nord lock washer to the chain tensioner bolt as it slips a little no matter how tight I make it.
When I turn off the ignition the engine keeps running. I need to replace the single-pole ignition switch with a double-pole type so that the charging circuit, along with the battery supplied 12 volts, can both be disconnected in the off position. The kill switch is connected to the ignition module and works fine.
The "neutral" LED light failed. I used the recommended resistor in series with it but it was super bright. I suspect one will last longer with more resistance.
Lastly, the tachometer appears to program properly for single-cylinder use but doesn't work. The wiring diagram shows that the trigger input should be connected to the negative side of the coil. That also happens to be ground, which seems wrong to me. I'm going to give Speedhut an old fashioned phone call and see if someone is available to discuss this.
I hope to have my girlfriend take a video this weekend.