Should I try a repair man or just get a new refrigerator.
- Thread starter f4radar
- Start date
I think you can adjust the temperature and airflow on most (maybe all?) of them, usually a couple of knobs inside, they're up high on the back panel of my antique Sears Coldspot. I bought my refrigerator well-used for $40 in 1988 (post-divorce, money was very tight), still using it! I think I replaced the fan motor once, myself, long time ago. Still friging so I've never even considered replacing it. I just took a quick look on Home Depot and they have several side-by-side refrigerators around $1100-1200 with free delivery, not cheap but considerably less than $1800, top-freezer models are a little lower.
There’s a you tube video from an Appliance Tech that says Buy American brands like GE and Frigidaire. Also the less bells and whistles, less can go wrong. Some have computer screens now! Unfortunately the Whirlpool model I bought 6 years ago and took a shit, had major and expensive issues with the control panel. I went with a Basic Frigidaire.
Also new frigs' insides are all plastic and will break way before the workings go bad. Replacements are usually very expensive. I think nowdays appliances are built for timed obsolesce after maybe 7-10 years. Our frig went TU and for some reason I bought extra years on the warranty (something I never do) and it had a month left. So they ended up replacing ALL the guts because they could not fighure out what was wrong. Also because there was a lengthy parts delay, we got a loaner which was placed out in the shed. They never came to pick up the loaner. It was small but useable. It now sits behind the bar downstairs. So I guess karma works both ways.
Good luck with yours. I think it needs a pressure check for leaks IMO>
Good luck with yours. I think it needs a pressure check for leaks IMO>
If the freezer temp is good and only the fridge section is 10 degrees too high its an air flow problem from freezer to fridge The refrigerator section works by getting airflow from the freezer. If there both high its likely low on refrigerant.
You can put some in with a bullet piercing valve and a gauge set. The valve only cost about $5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8J3M...crid=XA6DUPSUSFNJ&=&sprefix=piercing+valve
You can put some in with a bullet piercing valve and a gauge set. The valve only cost about $5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8J3M...crid=XA6DUPSUSFNJ&=&sprefix=piercing+valve
Well I tapped into the Freon line and I had about a pound of pressure. I gave it a couple short bursts and raised it to about 3 pounds. The freezer and refrigerator both still run about 15 degrees higher than it should. Now I’m thinking it maybe the temperature switch/sensor. That’s a 55 dollar part but easy to replace.
if its 134a 2-3 lbs on the low side should give you an evaporator temp of around 0 degrees which is actually a little high but close. If it were low on refrigerant low side would be in a vacuum , sounds like you have an airflow problem. If the evaporator is completely blocked up with ice you wont get the airflow you need. The defrost thermostat, heater and timer are common failure points. An easy test would be to unplug unit and let it defrost and if it works good after a day or so with the doors left open then its not defrosting automatically. Or you can remove the cover on the evaporator and have a look