Some TriSport questions

[wjustice]

Did all of the different models use the same basic Peerless 100 series differential?
Has anyone converted a non-suspension to disc brakes? If so, pics? parts? It is a bit tight for room on the drive side of the engine. It also has a 3/4" axle and most parts seem to be available for 1". Does anyone make a 3/4 to 1" adapter bushing?
I have done a bit of searching and found plenty of needed info. However, is there any other places, web sites or forums that you can recommend? Thanks!

 

[Bill Ellerby]

Where do you need the adapters and for what purpose. If you got more pictures I'm sure that would help others in assisting you.

 

[james c]

i have not found any disks that fit the 3/4" axels i think they do make adaapter bushing to go from 3/4 to 1" but i can only find 5/8" to 3/4" Search

 

[wjustice]

Where do you need the adapters and for what purpose. If you got more pictures I'm sure that would help others in assisting you.

Well most of the available disks are for 1" axles and larger. I saw an adapter linked to in a forum (here I believe) but have not been able to refind it since then. I have some pics in my album that show my clutch setup. You can see the band brakes I have and the tight spacing there is to work with. I have been considering in the future adding a Northern Tool differential (if I need it and it fits) and possible a larger engine. This is why I asked if the diffs were all basically the same. I have a clutch but a 30 series TC is on order. The GTC converter is rated to 8hp with a 3/4" shaft and 8-13hp with a 1" shaft.

 

[Bill Ellerby]

Some of the Peerless 100 series diffs are 1" shafts. Try going to Lowes and in the hardware section in the multi-draws where their have the misc'oddball hardware they carry steel bushings. They do carry the 3/4" to 1" busings about 1 1/2 to 2" long and make and adapter from that. Cut a slot the width of the key and length required to match the key way set the bushing on the shaft with the key and weld together. Slide off bushing and grind/sand weld smooth. Now on the opposite end 180 out from the new key cut a slot to match the new key way needed. For less then $3 you just made your adapter. Any questions just PM me.

 

[james c]

bill "the man"

 

[jeep2003]

have you considered using the sprocket for a disk? Also i have a disk that bolts to the 4 bolt patern on these diffs if your intrested in it. you can put it on the side with the sprocket or on the other side as its bumped out. Although there are two different bolt patterns to watch for

 

[wjustice]

Well jeep, no I have not. The current dual band brake with a single lever is not very effective. They did real good today on a shakedown run, locking the tires with moderate effort. UNTIL, I hit a small puddle. After that they did more slowing then stopping. I am looking at a dual mechanical disk setup. Trouble is that the disks are mostly for 1" axles hence the need for adapters.
The other question of my post, about the diffs, I guess is if they can handle more power. If they were basically the same then stepping up in power should not be a problem. If they cannot handle it then a replacement such as the one from Northern is a consideration. It has 1" axles and I am back to the brake thing. May as well get 1" stuff to start with.

 

[steven Durham]

With dual disc on the axle's the load is taken off the differential's casting. With cable operated mechanical disc you will always have braking issues and add a bigger engine and more speed that get's multiplied so best to do it right the first time and go hydraulic disc off a single master cylinder. sure it takes more work to set up floating calipers but they stop you each and every time. after my first Tri-Sport a TS 150 with a 290 CCW.
I had had it with the band brakes and 3 handlebar levers and busted chains. Tri-Sport came out with the RTS series and I changed over to that and never looked back to a high powered machine without proper brakes.
Steve

 

[wjustice]

Well Mr Durham, do you have some suggestions for parts. This is a TS130 (I think) with solid rear suspension. I have talked to people that have good reports on the mech disc setups.
Also is there any GOOD way to identify exactly what model/year I have?

 

[gumpit]

Mechanical brakes do not work as good as hydraulic.Period. I am sure if they are using them they are going to say they work fine. BUT Steve is the ALSPORT expert. I would do what he says. Randy

 

[steven Durham]

Thanks Randy: I have done the Fred Flintstones approach to braking way to many times even with the hydraulic brakes that came with the RTS they were made by Borg Warner and just did not work 100% of the time.
So I went to 10 inch Martin 1/4 inch thick disc and used dual piston Wilwood calipers. Not expecting anyone to go that far but I would find a pair of 8 inch disc and use MPC ( Martin Products Company ) go kart brakes they work great and have a handle bar master cylinder.
BMI sells these parts at good prices. I don't ever go cheap when it comes to safety and even when it's not a high speed machine.
Steve

 

[steven Durham]

Tri-Sport

Well Mr Durham, do you have some suggestions for parts. This is a TS130 (I think) with solid rear suspension. I have talked to people that have good reports on the mech disc setups.
Also is there any GOOD way to identify exactly what model/year I have?

Well before they went out of business I would say Comet made the best of the mechanical calipers with their DC series, but they were used only with a 6 inch diameter O.D. disc. You can only get limited mechanical advantage using a hand control with a cable connection. As for your Tri-Sport model they were not big into I D Tags like some company's were. TS 130 is probably as good a guess as any.
Steve