Get a flat head screw driver that's small enough to fit inside the bore and hammer them out from the back side. Go slow and be easy on them. Just tap around the inside edges until it starts to give. Then turn the wheel over and get the other one.
I have a piece of stainless that is about 1 1/2 in diameter...and it is heavy! I hit once or twice with a BFH and they come right out. I am not a fan of the screwdriver as it leaves some room for error and can cock the bearing in the seat. You can also use an appropriately sized piece of pipe!
I have a piece of stainless that is about 1 1/2 in diameter...and it is heavy! I hit once or twice with a BFH and they come right out. I am not a fan of the screwdriver as it leaves some room for error and can cock the bearing in the seat. You can also use an appropriately sized piece of pipe!
Instead of a screwdriver use the end of a socket extension to tap the first bearing out then, use an appropriate sized socket against bearing to knock out the second one.
Instead of a screwdriver use the end of a socket extension to tap the first bearing out then, use an appropriate sized socket against bearing to knock out the second one.
Andy, I was thinking 2 piece wheel...sorry! For one piece wheels I have a punch that is 14" long and I will take small punches around the diameter of the bearing.
Andy, I was thinking 2 piece wheel...sorry! For one piece wheels I have a punch that is 14" long and I will take small punches around the diameter of the bearing.
socket fits but not long enough, found a sink stopper, but it ain't biting well on the inside to catch the edge for a hammer tap
i'm gonna try again today.
I don't think any of the bikes I've changed bearings on use a spacer. Is this optional? Or mandatory on some bikes? I set aside my Sears Ropper for the time being but I remember the rear axle coming out real tough. When I finally did get it out it pulled with it what looked like a spacer. Is it necessary I use it again? Don't mean to hijack here but I think it goes with the topic...
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