Dr. Shop Teacher's - "Lil" Indian Model 600 - (Vintage Class)
Prepping Clutch Guard for Paint--How to Layer Color
This begins a fairly short section on how to duplicate a powder coat with spray paint. Over the next couple of days, I'll document the process.
OND was kind enough to ship me a "lil" Indian clutch guard freshly re-popped out of fiberglass. Wasn't much to do other than sand in a few places and prime for the base coat. Since the bike is the same color as Copperhead, my Gilson "mule," and I had just converted to TAV20, I needed to make up a new, wider TAV cover which will need the same color treatment. I made the new Gilson cover yesterday, and did the finish sanding this morning.
Here are the pieces on their way to primer:
I used body filler and spot putty to smooth out imperfections on the Gilson cover. The "cereal" bowl shape usually makes this hard to get out of the mold. This time it came out easily.
Here they are in primer:
This begins a fairly short section on how to duplicate a powder coat with spray paint. Over the next couple of days, I'll document the process.
OND was kind enough to ship me a "lil" Indian clutch guard freshly re-popped out of fiberglass. Wasn't much to do other than sand in a few places and prime for the base coat. Since the bike is the same color as Copperhead, my Gilson "mule," and I had just converted to TAV20, I needed to make up a new, wider TAV cover which will need the same color treatment. I made the new Gilson cover yesterday, and did the finish sanding this morning.
Here are the pieces on their way to primer:
I used body filler and spot putty to smooth out imperfections on the Gilson cover. The "cereal" bowl shape usually makes this hard to get out of the mold. This time it came out easily.
Here they are in primer:
Color Matching through Layering--Clutch Guard
Here's the process I used to color match the clutch guard to Copperhead powder coat. Using candy or anodized colors helps but not always necessary (and you can use Testor's Model Spray paints). The key is to apply each coat lightly and about 5 minutes apart. Each coat is applied as the previous starts to flash.
1) Base coat of GM Metallic Gold--
2) Followed by overspray of Metallic Groundcoat (Duplicolor)--
3) A light coat of Anodized Copper (VHT)--
4) First coat of Anodized Red (Duplicolor)--
5) Another mist coat of Metallic Gold--
6) Misting of Metallic Ground Coat--
7) Several Coats of Anodized Red to build to desired color depth--
8) Final product--
And here's the new TAV Guard for Copperhead (my Gilson)--
Here's the process I used to color match the clutch guard to Copperhead powder coat. Using candy or anodized colors helps but not always necessary (and you can use Testor's Model Spray paints). The key is to apply each coat lightly and about 5 minutes apart. Each coat is applied as the previous starts to flash.
1) Base coat of GM Metallic Gold--
2) Followed by overspray of Metallic Groundcoat (Duplicolor)--
3) A light coat of Anodized Copper (VHT)--
4) First coat of Anodized Red (Duplicolor)--
5) Another mist coat of Metallic Gold--
6) Misting of Metallic Ground Coat--
7) Several Coats of Anodized Red to build to desired color depth--
8) Final product--
And here's the new TAV Guard for Copperhead (my Gilson)--
Takes some time to get it right. Patience, my friend...and get your health back!:thumbsup:
Thanks, Eric. Your cover is true professional work. The Gilson cover mold needs some refinement to make better impressions.
I'll tell you what...I sent them an email this afternoon thanking for the clutch and help. Jim emailed me back wanting photos of the install and the application (the bike). Now that's customer service!:thumbsup:
Thanks, Eric. Your cover is true professional work. The Gilson cover mold needs some refinement to make better impressions.
I'll tell you what...I sent them an email this afternoon thanking for the clutch and help. Jim emailed me back wanting photos of the install and the application (the bike). Now that's customer service!:thumbsup:
Bracket and detailing clutch cover
The bracket is a funky little thing. I first bent it according to the cut lines on OND (Eric's) template. Turns out that works fine for direct to sprocket chain but not so hot for the jackshaft. So, I had to re-bend a couple of times to get it close. Still needs adjustment.
I also did some detail work on both guards. Still some left to do on each.
Then, since it was in the 50s, Copperhead spent some time cruising the neighborhood. The GC190 loves the TAV.
The bracket is a funky little thing. I first bent it according to the cut lines on OND (Eric's) template. Turns out that works fine for direct to sprocket chain but not so hot for the jackshaft. So, I had to re-bend a couple of times to get it close. Still needs adjustment.
I also did some detail work on both guards. Still some left to do on each.
Then, since it was in the 50s, Copperhead spent some time cruising the neighborhood. The GC190 loves the TAV.
Nate, I used both the template you sent and the one Eric sent. Some measurements were different on each. When I laid out the sheetmetal using your dimensions, it was pushing the guard way off the clutch. Eric's was about the same. One of the problems, I think, is the thickness and curvature of the fiberglass--The "straps" wouldn't set flush, so I had to trim them back. So, I dunno. Maybe my sheetmetal skills have withered away.:shrug: Anyway, with a little tinkering, it works. No worries.:thumbsup:
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Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose....
The nice and pretty Gold '64 Briggs ended up being toast. I ended up salvaging an even older block (it has 4 mounts for the coil) with a steel sleeve. You can see the thread and video of Franken-Briggs running here:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/briggs-and-stratton/140746-im-stumped-3hp-start.html
The nice and pretty Gold '64 Briggs ended up being toast. I ended up salvaging an even older block (it has 4 mounts for the coil) with a steel sleeve. You can see the thread and video of Franken-Briggs running here:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/briggs-and-stratton/140746-im-stumped-3hp-start.html
I could, but it's not worth it. The "new" block has the same basic design with the exception of 4 rather 2 coil mounts. The tins from the original engine will transfer over (including the square air deflector). Changed the crank seal back to the original this morning and let run for about an hour. A little bit of carb adjusting and she idles and revs well.