PM CarPlayLB. He can tell you a bit more about what you have--spec numbers on cam, if any, will be helpful. If not, lobe lift measurements--bunch of threads on how to measure. Pop the piston rod cap and check the journal for condition. To me, good that you have a Billet Rod, Bearing Crank, etc. Now I think you can say you done very good for $50.:thumbsup:
Horstman rod and Horstman cam! :thumbsup: Ya done good! That engine is more than worthy for a good cleaning and light rebuild. I am not sure if the rod has replace-able bearing inserts, but chances are it does. A couple bucks and some elbow grease and you will have a strong flathead. If we could only find a way to adapt a Tecumseh shroud to keep those "other" guys happy!
I looked back through the pics. I can imagine that was a Jr. Dragster engine...the kart guys rarely used head girdles. You need to pull the flywheel and probably get rid of the advance key that should be there...if there is any key at all! The Jr's running alky need a lot more advance than gas...a key way might not have got them there!
The other concern to me is how much lift is in the cam. Measure the base circle, set your digital calipers back to zero without closing the caliper, and them measure from top of lobe to base circle. There is your lift.If your arms are as big as [MENTION=9664]cheezy1[/MENTION] , you might be able to pull start it!
The .080 over piston is big, and would benefit from new rings. I don't know if you can go much further in the bore. If that's the case, you will need to sleeve it if the bore is damaged.
a while back I sold an alky carb and manifold on eBay in one day at $80...you will be positive in the cash by selling that!
I looked back through the pics. I can imagine that was a Jr. Dragster engine...the kart guys rarely used head girdles. You need to pull the flywheel and probably get rid of the advance key that should be there...if there is any key at all! The Jr's running alky need a lot more advance than gas...a key way might not have got them there!
The other concern to me is how much lift is in the cam. Measure the base circle, set your digital calipers back to zero without closing the caliper, and them measure from top of lobe to base circle. There is your lift.If your arms are as big as [MENTION=9664]cheezy1[/MENTION] , you might be able to pull start it!
The .080 over piston is big, and would benefit from new rings. I don't know if you can go much further in the bore. If that's the case, you will need to sleeve it if the bore is damaged.
a while back I sold an alky carb and manifold on eBay in one day at $80...you will be positive in the cash by selling that!
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With all due respect, no CL numbers, no comparison outside of lift. Lots of lift numbers are the same, yet the cams are for completely different applications.
In the event anyone is interested in checking a cam and getting the "Intake Centerline," degrees, this is what I used, and posted photos and cam card, which received about as much attention as a caterpillar fart. :shrug:
It was very easy to do, and allowed for a more accurate indication of what the cam is, and what its application is than just measuring lift.
In the event anyone is interested in checking a cam and getting the "Intake Centerline," degrees, this is what I used, and posted photos and cam card, which received about as much attention as a caterpillar fart. :shrug:
It was very easy to do, and allowed for a more accurate indication of what the cam is, and what its application is than just measuring lift.
