Adding a UNI Air Filter To Lifan 6.5 hp on Doodlebug?

#1
Hi There,

I just finished my conversion of the Doodlebug to the 6.5 hp Lifan motor. It really flies...I love it.

I'm now thinking about adding a UNI air filter.

Can you tell me what kind of performance increase I can expect if I put one on?

How much faster will this make the bike go?

Is there much extra maintenance in using the UNI air filter instead of the original air filter that came with it?

I was thinking of buying one from Affordablegokarts on eBay.

This is truly a great forum...I'm hoping one of you experts can advise me here.

thank you in advance,
Klorm :smile:
 
#2
It won't make the bike go any faster. It'll just look neater...

Throw on a header along with it & it may help. You will need to rejet the carb though.
 
#3
I have that same engine, but being that it's a knock off, I don't know what the original Honda engine number is. I'm looking at doing the same thing so can you tell me which filter you were going to get? I'm not too interested in getting it faster (yet :thumbsup:) but I want to clean up the bulky air cleaner box and the exhaust.

Thanks
Jeff
 
#4
I was considering adding a unifilter but I haven't. The choke knob wont work the same way is one reason I didn't. As I looked the db over, I realized that the stock package is actually a pretty clean set-up,(all things being compacted around the engine). The unifilter is more washable. That's why I thought I wanted it. Whith a slightly richer main jet, it would also perform a little better but after nearly pooping my pants in the middle of an unintentional wheelstand, I decided to leave the entire package in stock form other than zip-tying (?) the governor spring for a little more TOP end. The stealthy stock exhaust come in handy for night rides through my residential area so I'm definitely keeping that also. If you add the uni, slightly richen your main jet until the spark-plug
looks right( a light tan color on the inner pocelain insulator.) If you forget to jet, you will most likely burn internal engine parts. Have fun on the badd-@ss db-30. What color is it?:scooter:
 
#5
When you hook up the UNI filter and adapter you MUST re-jet or the engine will run like crap. It will run so poorly that the bike will barely go.

You can buy a new #90 main jet or drill it out with a #65 drill (.035 inch) once drilled out that will give you a #89 jet. all the jet size/drill bit info is on the very helpful affordable go kart web site:thumbsup:

Drilling the main jet with the #65 drill bit with the stock or different exhaust works great:thumbsup:

On my stock DB-30 w/6.5hp motor I drilled the main to a #80 size jet (#68 drill bit) and then drilled six 1/2 inch holes in the plastic air filter cover. The engine runs much better and I rarely need the choke for starting. The engines comes very lean from the factory.
 
#7
If you plan to do any other engine mods you may want to consider a 22mm Mikuni, Animal Intake and K&N similiar to this setup on my 6.5. The 1.2 rockers also seem to help out a bit although I haven't had time to play with it too much yet.
 
#8
can you add a UNI air filter to the stock carb or do you need to up grade that also? I am not looking for anymore speed I am just trying to make it look better since I got the new clone with the biga$$ bulky air filter cover, and will I have to re jet it?
 
#12
Jet

Hi There,

I just finished my conversion of the Doodlebug to the 6.5 hp Lifan motor. It really flies...I love it.

I'm now thinking about adding a UNI air filter.

Can you tell me what kind of performance increase I can expect if I put one on?

How much faster will this make the bike go?

Is there much extra maintenance in using the UNI air filter instead of the original air filter that came with it?

I was thinking of buying one from Affordablegokarts on eBay.

This is truly a great forum...I'm hoping one of you experts can advise me here.

thank you in advance,
Klorm :smile:
I have the Uni filter not installed as of yet. I called up ARC racing and talked to Tom(the same gentleman that has those great U-Tube videos posted.) He was really helpful and suggested a GX140 emulsion tube with a pre-drilled .36 jet. Just replace the stock parts and you're done. Once I receive install the ARC Billet flywheel, I'll remove the governor, install the Uni filter and ARC exhaust and re-jet and my kart will fly!
 
#13
I have the Uni filter not installed as of yet. I called up ARC racing and talked to Tom(the same gentleman that has those great U-Tube videos posted.) He was really helpful and suggested a GX140 emulsion tube with a pre-drilled .36 jet. Just replace the stock parts and you're done. Once I receive install the ARC Billet flywheel, I'll remove the governor, install the Uni filter and ARC exhaust and re-jet and my kart will fly!
since you're already getting the billet flywheel and removing the governor, you might as well do the billet rod too. it becomes a weak link at that point. if it lets go, it can go straight up and hit you in a very bad spot.
 
#14
Im going to agree with the above

The rod is very crucial, as you dont want to watch your investment get destroyed from one hard rev,

The 140 imulsion tube will give you more low end power,

And yes that is the correct adapter and filter
 
#15
Yeah.

since you're already getting the billet flywheel and removing the governor, you might as well do the billet rod too. it becomes a weak link at that point. if it lets go, it can go straight up and hit you in a very bad spot.
I've been debating this for quite some time and still haven't made up my mind. If I do this, where does it stop? I might as well get the flat top piston, stronger studs and bolts, push rods, you know, the works! I've seen all those videos that Tom made and I believe he stated that he hadn't seen any problems with the stock rod. I understand it is like an insurance policy when you strengthen things. On the same token, we occasionally use are kart and really have no place to go flat out other than a school parking lot. And there really isn't that much room. I'll need to strengthen the chassis with this new found power,(brakes, bearings, fittings and joints). The list goes on. It only has a 2.5hp briggs on it now and goes 18 mph.
YouTube - Karting after the snow melt

I just wonder what kind of damage people see in the AKRA box stock class where they race these clones pretty muck stock with the exception of removing the governor.

Section 8 – AKRA Box Stock Project
Class Structure
Participant ages are determined as of January 1st.
BOX STOCK SENIOR* Age 15 years & up – 375 lbs. – 87 Octane Gas Only – Approved engine: BS Project 6.5
OHV only, with Factory Stock exhaust required. Stamped steel drum shoe type clutches only. (Tires EL Maxxis or
Local Club Tire Rule)
BOX STOCK SR CHAMP* Age 15 years & up – 400 lbs. – 87 Octane Gas Only - Approved engine: BS Project
6.5 OHV only, with Factory Stock exhaust required. Stamped steel drum shoe type clutches only. (Tires EL Maxxis
or Local Club Tire Rule)
BOX STOCK JUNIOR 1* Age 8 to 10 years – 265 lbs. – 87 Octane Gas Only - Approved engine: BS Project 6.5
OHV only, with .500 inch maximum intake restrictor, no steering fairing allowed , maximum nose height 14 inches
from ground level to top of nose, and Factory Stock exhaust required. Stamped steel drum shoe type clutches only.
(Tires EL Maxxis or Local Club Tire Rule)
BOX STOCK JUNIOR 11* Age 10 to 12 years – 290 lbs. – 87 Octane Gas Only - Approved engine: BS Project
6.5 OHV only, with .550 inch maximum intake restrictor, no steering fairing allowed , maximum nose height 14
inches from ground level to top of nose, and Factory Stock exhaust required. Stamped steel drum shoe type clutches
only. (Tires EL Maxxis or Local Club Tire Rule)
BOX STOCK JUNIOR 111* Age 12 to 15 years –320 lbs. – 87 Octane Gas Only - Approved engine: BS Project
6.5 OHV only, and Factory Stock exhaust required. Stamped steel drum
shoe type clutches only. (Tires EL Maxxis or Local Club Tire Rule)

ENGINE SPECIFIC TECH SHEET FOR: BOX STOCK PROJECT 6.5 OVH
Description: Single cylinder, 2 valve, OHV 4 cycle
Important Note: All parts must be Box Stock Project factory production parts unless otherwise specified in
this rules manual. No machining or alteration of parts is allowed unless specifically noted. All parts will be
subject to a comparison to a know Box Stock part (when performing a comparison check it is recommended
to use a + /- .005” tolerance). Engine will be teched as raced. There will also be a $200 claiming rule in place
for this engine. Refusing to accept the claimer will result in immediate disqualification of competitor along
with forfeiture of any points earned to date in class. Competitor will also not be allowed to compete any
longer in that class.

Combustion chamber volume: 27.5 cubic centimeter minimum, with piston at TDC, using prescribed procedure.
Cylinder Head Requirements: Must be OEM casting only. Porting and / or grinding are not permitted. Valve
seats are two angles 45 degrees valve face and 30 degrees top relief. Stock head bolts only, must have four. Head
gasket maybe after market, must be of stock configuration. No copper or aluminum gaskets allowed. Stock exhaust
system only with no modifications. Any stock configuration gasket allowed no other sealer.
Bore and Stroke: Stock cylinder bore is 2.685” max. Stroke is 2.123” + / - .005”.

Carburetor requirements: Huayi model carb only. Carb to intake sealer is gasket only no other sealer allowed.
Choke must be as supplied from factory, but may be fixed to stay in open position. Choke bore .810” NO-GO.
Venturi .615” NO-GO. Rear carb bore .751” NO-GO. Main fuel jet .028” NO-GO. Stock air cleaner assembly only.
Valve Train: Stock valve cover only with any stock configuration gasket, no sealer.

Factory stock rocker arms and
push rods only. Stock valves only 45 degree angle only both valves, no modifications allowed. Only Box Stock
valve springs only. Max wire diameter on spring wire is .698” with a maximum tension of 10.8 lbs. at a height of
.850”.

Ignition system: Stock Box Stock system only and must be unaltered. Kill switch and low oil sensor may be
disabled and removed.
Flywheel: Box Stock flywheel only with plastic fins. No alterations of any type allowed. Must also run stock
flywheel key.
Piston and Rings: Must be unaltered Box Stock only. No machining of piston and rings allowed.
Connecting Rod: Stock Box Stock rod only. No machining of any type allowed. Stock rod bolts only.
Crankshaft Requirements: Stock Box Stock crankshaft required. Machining, polishing, addition of material or
other alteration of crankshaft is prohibited. Stock factory timing gear mandatory and must be installed in original
location. Crankshaft journal diameter is 1.180”- 1.175” min.

Camshaft Requirements: Stock as cast camshaft only. Maximum running lift of .245” checked at valve as run.
Block Requirements: Block must remain stock as produced. Stub for governor may be removed and hole plugged.
No machining of block allowed. Welding to the block shall be for rod damage repair only and may not constitute a
functional modification.
 
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#16
Rod

I guess the last sentence says it all. "Welding to the block shall be for rod damage repair only and may not constitute a
functional modification. ":thumbsup:
 
#17
I know people that wouldnt run a stock rod in there lawnmower...

Honestly, I would add it before I put on the billet flywheel, and
I definitely would if I removed the governor, as for flattop pistons, and everything else
that can get unnecessary

Sometimes you can have a stock rod that will last for ever ungoverned, sometimes youll have one that snaps as soon as you rev it past 4,000

The rods are somewhat durable, but if you want a reliable ride, that you dont have to worry about, even if you rev her high, id get the 50 dollar insurance policy, known as the billet rod
 
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