Got a powell!

Itype2slo

Well-Known Member
#81
The springs were 23 bucks each I ordered 3 of them. I have no idea if my spring was original but it was toast. the spring on your excel sheet that you said you used matched up the best to the one in my bike so that is the one I ordered. Someone along the way put a second spring inside the original.
I have seen a bunch of C & D's with that little spring inside the big spring, Maybe they came with it.
 
#82
Good to know, the one I ordered that Dave told me about has a thicker wire with the same coil count so it should be OK as is but I will clean up the little one in case. Its in OK shape. The large spring was mangled.
 
#83
It's moving right along Ole! It's amazing how those tires can weld themselves to the rims.

I like those angles on your shop press to hold it centered. I might steal your idea.
 
#84
Today I received the springs from Century (Thanks Dave) and they look great. Took off the swingarm and the pulley/sprocket assembly and have a few questions for you powell guys out there. There are either bushings or could be bearings in the frame for the swingarm bolt to go thru. Does anyone know if they are bearings or bushings? Also how do I remove them? On the pulley assembly there is a idler pulley that looks like the ends were peened over can I just grind that flat and knock them out or are they welded in. The engagement lever has been welded up and it does not look like a factory weld, anyone have a picture of one?
 

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#85
Ole, first of all- dual springs for the rear suspension were never used according to the experts I have talked to. The inner springs used by some people were installed to mitigate weakening springs. They generally rub against the outer, larger spring. Just what I heard, and what I have experienced. Just an FYI-

The swing arm pivots on bearings. They are removed with a big socket and a sledge hammer. (Or the proper tools) (grin) I can't remember what I used to replace them, but they were easy to find. You may be able to remove the rust and reuse yours. (I can't tell from photos)

The pulley and lever assembly is welded together, but looks a bit more finished that what you have there. You can find all of the parts to rebuild them, but the axles would need to be machined. I built two of them. I can't find where I documented that, but here is a bike I used one set on. As I recall, I assembled the unit, then welded it up and that encapsulated the bearings. No peening.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...roller-5864-e-275-shipping.121049/post-992732

Here is a photo of an original E model version on my bike that shows a bit of detail, and info.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...en-class-powell-challenger.107241/post-916456
 
#89
Maybe a bit of 1/2" all thread and a couple-o-nuts. On one of my Powells, a one of those bearings came out in pieces. I got one out, but the other one required direct driving. You know all this stuff. Just memories slowly returning. Four years already since I worked them.
 
#92
Got the wheel, idler, pulley bearings yesterday and I am remaking the idler/pulley brackets out of slightly thicker metal. Dave if you are reading this, I am using a comet 20 series driver and I think it uses the 3/4 inch belt. I was thinking of getting some 1/8 aluminum and making a center piece to widen the driven pulley, wondering if you did that on yours, or did you just use a 5/8 symmetrical belt. Got everything torn down and now have to start cleaning, blasting, bead blast, paint and remake the front forks as one side both outer and inner leg are toast. Looks like the welded on metal ring disintegrated and gouged and deformed the leg outer and inner.
 

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#93
I also used a Comet 20. To that end, I installed 1/8 bushings on each of the four retaining bolts on the driven. This allowed me to run the Comet 20 and it's 3/4" belt instead of the original 5/8" belt. The spacers were up to the task. No issues what so ever. P29.JPG
 
#94
Perfect, you have been a blessing on this build. The flanged bearings for the frame I bought do not have that little bit of extra width on the inside race to keep the swingarm from rubbing the bearing. The only ones I could find like the originals were from mowers and not a high quality bearing so I may just turn some spacers from aluminum and use that but it will complicate assembly a bit.
 
#95
I still cant understand how the idler will work. IF the lever is behind the screw holder the idler sits inbetween the belt doing nothing and if you unlatch it it contacts the belt under spring tension but it is not enough to prevent the driver from closing or is it a really strong spring?
 
#96
Ole, I am 100% certain I had originally equipped shims on those bearings. I recall having to mess with them while getting the swing arm in place. As far as the idler, the spring isn't that strong, or wasn't on mine. As a result, the effects were not very stark. All it really does is prevent the driver from fully expanding, keeping it in a forced lower gear. It ran good in either setting.
 

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