Govenor arm inside case noise

#1
Hello, the previous owner of my gx140 motor disconnected the governor linkage and the stud is only sticking about the case about 1/8". It sounds like it's hitting something inside. What would be the easiest fix for this? I was thinking of tacking a bolt on it to pull it up and drilling a cotter pin hole in it to keep it out of the way. I don't really want to take the case apart. Thanks.
 
#2
Nope...can't have both. You either have to re-connect it properly....or take it apart and remove all the parts of it. Otherwise you are in for some heartbreak pretty soon running it that way.
 
#3
What are you calling a stud? The stud the governor assembly turns on inside the case or the linkage arm coming out of the top of the motor. Did someone remove the gear driven governor and leave the stud in. The stud the governor rides on is ok to leave in as long as you remove the washer that sits behind the governor assembly.
 
#4
What are you calling a stud? The stud the governor assembly turns on inside the case or the linkage arm coming out of the top of the motor. Did someone remove the gear driven governor and leave the stud in. The stud the governor rides on is ok to leave in as long as you remove the washer that sits behind the governor assembly.
Really? It is ok to leave the stud in that sticks out of the top of the block on his Honda and can contact the crank? Or am I reading your response wrong?
 
#5
You are reading it wrong, the stud he speaks of is the one the little plastic gear spins on . Once the gear is gone ten the stud can stay . I tried to cut it out in my Honda 160 and could only get part of it . This predator i'am doing now the stud will stay .

Now the arm that the OP speaks of needs to come OUT . Even if you get it where it doesn't turn ( anchor) it somehow , how can you tell which direction to lock it at . An aciddent waiting to happen take it out .
 
Last edited:
#6
You are reading it wrong, the stud he speaks of is the one the little plastic gear spins on . Once the gear is gone ten the stud can stay . I tried to cut it out in my Honda 160 and could only get part of it . This predator i'am doing now the stud will stay .

Now the arm that the OP speaks of needs to come OUT . Even if you get it where it doesn't turn ( anchor) it somehow , how can you tell which direction to lock it at . An aciddent waiting to happen take it out .
I believe that is what he is speaking about....the stud/arm that comes out of the top of the block. Not the stud you push out behind the flywheel into the case. Which is why I say it has to come apart and everything must be removed. That arm/stud is hitting the crank and making the noise he speaks of. The stud the oil slinger(which can be accessed behind the flywheel to knock it into the case) rides on can stay...but again everything must come off of it. And yes I am keeping my terms simple....cause if he don't wanna open the case...seems he may not be to knowledgeable.
 
Last edited:
#8
Let me tell you what I did. I did punch the stud out that the gov gear was mounted on. I don't think that is what he's talking about. I didn't remove the stud that goes into the case and contacted the gov assembly. I did spin it around so that it doesn't contact anything, and I am still using part of the factory arm (on my GX200 clone, not a 140 clone) for my throttle assembly. It's hard to explain. Now, the GX140 may be a little different if the gov arm is on the side, not on the top. I don't know much about the 140.

If it were me, I'd pull the cover off of the case and put a plug in it, or maybe stick a bolt through the hole (short bolt). Are you needing something to mount the gov arm on for a throttle hook up?
 
#9
Fascinating,I am experiencing the same situation.now that the holidays are over some of my parts are starting to trickle in.I received my mikuni carburetor and realized the throttle hook up is completely different.so I remove the old linkage and was leftover with that arm underneath the gas tank.I do believe this is what you're referring to.so I'm hearing a lot of different opinions now I'm a bit confused.and I also realize this is someone else's question.and I don't know if this is frowned upon. I'm pretty new to this.but I think we're talking about the same thing.but this arm seems pretty useless at this point and I just don't know if I have to take apart the engine to get rid of it?any help would be greatly appreciated thank you
 
#10
removing it is very simple. remove the case cover. Don't mess with the cam. When you remove the bolt from the governor arm, the stud will simply drop through the hole into the case. A lot of guys use a top plate to make the throttle work, but if you're using a mikuni, you won't need it. I think the throttle cable fits down inside the carb and hooks into the slide, right? If you remove this, the governor will not function, but the mikuni will prevent it from working anyway.
 
#11
I bet there are some YouTube videos on this. Search for it on there. These motors are really easy to work on. Once you open it up, look for the plastic gear on the back of the case. That gear has weights in it, and they move out as the rpms increase. The weight pushes on the stud that is connected to the throttle on the carb, and this is how it prevents you from over-revving the motor. If you remove the stud, you can simply cap the hole with a set-screw or a bolt. I would also remove the plastic gear assembly as well. Please understand that you'll need to upgrade the inside if you're going to remove all of this and run a Mikuni. You'll need a billet rod and flywheel to keep safe. Your valves will probably float around 5500 rpms, so pushing it over 6000 rpms will be difficult, but you still need to be careful.
 
#12
I think we have a terminology issue. To me (correct me if I am wrong) a stud is something solidly mounted. The govenor arm coming out the top of the case working the carb linkage is NOT a stud (IMHO) The linkage arm coming out the top should be removed if it is not being used for the governor. The stud in the case that holds the governor weight spinning thingy can stay in the case as it hits nothing. There is a washer behind the spinning thingy that is often overlooked and if not removed bad things happen.
 
#13
Yep...you have to know what they really mean. After hearing enough new people speak..and the names they call thingys....you get a sense for what they most likely mean.
 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#15
Ole made a good point. Don't forget that washer.

And I use a little silicon on the set screw when I plug that hole.
And David makes a good point too. Until you get the rest the billet parts, you need to be very careful reving it. There will be a real loud clanking noise in your future. And oil all over your back tire.
Not that I would know or nothing.
 
#16
Ooooh the spinning thing Comes out also?with the washer behind it?and I need to buy a billet rod and fly wheel.im not running this, it's sitting on a bench. I would like to do this right and safely .and it's like 8 degrees out .is there anything else?
 
#18
What is your budget 300$ will make it safe and have a little grunt but for around 600-700$ you can have a well built engine


Sent from my iPhone using Mores code
 
Top