International handmade old school mini

electrathon

Active Member
#2
The first step is bending the tubing into the basic frame size. I have the frame jig that I made a few months ago, I used it as a reference but made this one a little taller. The two loops get joined for the sides. I always slide in a piece of 7/8" tubing to hold it in alignment while assembling and welding.

minibike 1-2-2019.jpg
 

electrathon

Active Member
#8
For this next step I got carried away and didn't take as many pics as I should have. I went back and recreated a few so that I could explain the process.

I use 1/2" brass bushings as steering bushings, I drill out the inside to 5/8" , then thread the inside of the steering yoke to hold the 1/2" pipe fitting. I used to use actual bushings but I found the threaded bushings are about a dollar each cheaper. I cut the yoke to 8" then thread the ends. I then use the frame jig to support the yoke at the proper position and tack it in place. minibike 1-4-2019,4.JPG minibike 1-4-2019,2.JPG minibike 1-4-2019, 1.JPG minibike 1-4-2019,3.JPG
 
#11
The rear axle is held straight by the blocks in the jig. There is a spacer pulled for the picture. On my last jig I had the blocks all the way out and it made it hard to pull the frame off. image.jpeg
 
#12
The torque converter hangs a little lower than the base of the engine. I had to build a raised base plate to gain clearance. I lost trimmed off the base of the torque converter bracket. The bracket on the frame is temporary to check for fit. image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
#13
Here is the actual baseplate on the plasma table. I need to clean it up and bend the support tabs. The narrow slots in the plate are to aid in bending the tabs. image.jpeg I am almost positive I got the engine slots in the correct place. I actually made three sheet metal ones to test alignment.
 
#14
The torque converter plate is trimmed and clears the baseplate. I bent the tabs and tacked on the actual baseplate. There is adequate clearance for the converter now that is it raised. I had to add and subtract shims from the torque converter so that the belt is in proper alignment. The chain is pretty tight in relationship to where it runs but I think it will all be happy. minibike 1-7-2019,1.JPG minibike 1-7-2019,2.jpg
 
#17
Looking back I realized I didn't mention the charging system. I added a magneto kit. It consisted of a magneto, flywheel, starter and all of the wiring needed. I am going to run a headlight and didn't want to need to charge the battery like on the last bike. Pulled the flywheel, added the mag and installed the new flywheel. Added the starter and the wiring harness. image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
#19
Yes, it is for the Honda. I did a lot of research on it and if the information if found said that the taper on the crank was slightly different between the HEMI and the non-HEMI engines. The Honda flywheel was supposed to be the same as the non-HEMI design. When I had the flywheel off I measures it with a caliper every way I could, then watched it for fit as I dropped it in place. I put dye on the crank taper and gently wiggled to test for contact. As best as I could tell the taper was correct. It was very confusing as to what was the proper answer and it does seem that there is also a ton of misinformation out there too.
 

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