Motovox MBX10 GX390 project

#1
MY buddy found me a GX390 off a power washer and I knew I had the beginning of my next project. I purchased a Motovox MBX10 rolling chassis and a complete Doodle bug DB30 from Ian at Motovox. Decided to put the GX390 on the MBX10 and away we went.

Mocked up the engine in the frame and decided we needed to stretch it 6 inches. Started by cutting out the original engine plate and the front tube and foot pegs. Stretching the lower part of the frame was easy. Took some heavy walled pipe and cut it into two 8 inch pieces. Machined 1 inch of each end down in the lathe so it would fit inside the existing frame tube. Used those to fill the gap in the lower frame. The top frame tube was more of a challenge. After cutting it apart just ahead of the seat mount we stretched it and tried to decide how to piece it back together. Decided that there was no easy way to fill in the gap and make it look good. Decided to cut the top tubes off at the neck and fabricate new ones. Bent up new tubes to match the original lines of the frame and tacked it all together.

Reassembled the bike to check how everything lined up and it all looked ok. We stripped the frame again and did the final welding. The seams in the tubes were plug welded and then the perimeter of the tubes were Tig welded. Where the upper tubes met the neck it was Mig welded. There will be gusseting going in to tie the new top tubes into the neck and into the existing lower tubes. The area in frt of the seat where the tubes were seamed will be reinforced also, have to decided on what I'm doing for a fuel tank first before we weld that in.

Purchased bearings and drill rod from McMaster to use for the jackshaft. Fabricated a jackshaft tube out of some heavy walled pipe with the ID machined to accept the bearings. Fabricated the saddles from a piece of 3/4 flat stock. Cut a 12" piece of drill rod and machined a keyway slot. The final dimensions for the length jackshaft will be determined once we decide where the engine is going to be. Cut 1 1/4 inches off the crank to narrow the whole package so it wouldn't stick out to far on the right side.

Decided to run a one piece engine plate from just head of the rear tire up to the front frame tubes to tie the lower frame tubes all together. Made a pattern for the plate and cut it out 1/8 inch stock with the plasma torch, bent it up on the 35 ton press. Due the the downward angle of the frame we angled the plate up so the engine sit's level.

That's were it sits for now. I'll take some more pictures and up date the post as the project progresses.
 
#6
MBX10 Project, Cut crank

Made a drill bushing that threaded into the crank so I drilled it straight and drilled it to the correct depth. Tapped the crank using the original threads as a guide. Cut the crank and squared off the end with and endmill. Champhered the inside end of the crank and then ran the tap thru again to clean up the threads.
 
#7
MBX10 Project, jackshaft

Originally fabricated the jackshaft using 5/8 dia rod, decided to go heavier and switched to 3/4 inch. The bearings and drill rod came from McMaster Carr. Machined the tubing in the lathe to accept the bearings, machined the saddles and cut the keyway on the mill. My buddy mig welded it together and I then blasted it and painted it, still have to press the bearings in.
 
#12
Finished the engine plate this weekend. Decided on the final location of the engine and jackshaft and milled the slots. Will probaly cut another 3/8" off the crank to bring the clutch in even closer. Need to debur the plate and will probably cut some lightening holes along the lower edge for looks. Going to pass the foot peg tube thru the frt of the engine plate so I have to locate and cut holes for that before welding it all in.

Have a MBX11 frt fork on it's way so I'm going to install that instead of the unsprung MBX10 fork. Going to add frt brakes so I also have a rear wheel assembly on it's way also. Going to remove the sprocket and itstall the rear wheel with the rotor on the MBX forks and fabricate a caliper mounting bracket. Want to run the Pro Mod hydraulic brake setup in the rear at least. I think the standard length hose for rear the hydraulic caliper will be to short so I'm waiting for an e-mail back from Brad at Pro Mod to see what my options are. Brad has been very helpfull and hopefully I can figure out how to use their setup. Sorry, I don't have some more detailed photos, I forgot to bring my camera to my buddys' shop this weekend.
 
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#15
This fabriaction is being done in the shop of my buddy Fred. I have a well equipped garage of my own but I have nowhere near the equipment that he has. We have tackled many projects together, this one only being the latest diversion. He found the engine for me and the project took off from there.
 
#16
MBX10 Project fuel tank

I took a ride over to the local recycling yard today at lunch looking for something to make a fuel tank out of. I have purchased several different styles of fuel tank and I'm not real happy with any of them. Have decided to go with the old school tubular style fuel tank. I bought some 4" diameter aluminum tubing that I could machine some end caps for and then tig weld it into a cylinder. I also found some spun aluminum medical oxygen bottles. I picked up 2 different sizes. The smaller one is about 3 1/8" in diameter and about a foot long. The larger bottle is about 4 1/4 in diameter and about 2 feet long.

The larger bottle is obviously to long as is but I could cut it down to the length I need and only have to machine one end cap. The small bottle may be usable as is. I could fabricate a filler neck that screws right into the bottle where the regulator goes now, may not hold a whole lot of fuel though, have to see. Going take a good look at my options this weekend and decide from there.
 
#18
MBX10 Project fuel tank

Decided against using either one of the oxygen bottles as a fuel tank. Decided to go with the 4 inch aluminum tubing I picked up at the recycling yard and fabricate my own.

Machined the end caps out of a 4 inch diameter aluminum slug. Used some smaller diameter material I had to machine the fuel caps. Made 2 styles of cap. The first one I made is a little larger in diameter and a bit taller than the other. Machined an o-ring groove in each so they seal properly. Fish mouthed the bungs on the mill using a boring bar so they fit on the tubing exactly. Both caps are vented. There is a 1/2 diameter hole in the bottom and a small vent hole in the top of each cap. I have some open cell foam from my fuel cell which goes in the hole in the bottom of the cap to act as a baffle and a slug will be pressed in to keep it from falling out. I haven't decided which cap I will use, won't decided until I see it on the bike.

We plan on using my friends rotating welding fixture when we tig it together. We will set up the tig and rotate the tank as it is welded. The fit between the end caps and the tubing is seamless so we should get a good fusion weld. The welds should turn out smooth and uniform so I plan on just blasting the tank and putting a couple of coats of clear on it.
 
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