My 6.5hp Conversion Questions

MXMatt

MXMatt

Member
#1
#1
Hi Guys!

So my hydro brake came in the mail today and its installed. I have my motor and am starting the conversion process. Initially, I intended to purchase ctjmini's plate, but I'm in a zone and want to get this done this weekend (my apologies Chris). Got my clutch tonight and already had my motor.

My first question is:

1) Does anyone have a template or the exact measurments for where to drill the holes on the mounting plate?

Any help in this area is very welcome. Can't wait for the added power and the use of my new brake. May pull an all nighter if I have to.
 
H

hardleydavidsein

New Member
#2
#2
Do you have 4 or 8 slots on your bikes mount plate? If you have 8 it's possible to mount the 6.5 without any drilling.[Note: I bought my orange bike with the 6.5 already on it] The mount did not appear to have been drilled. I did have to line the clutch up to keep the chain from flying off,but after that no problems.
 
TT

TT

#3
#3
Take my advice!

Order the plate and don't be foolish and rush it. Chris will ship it out Monday if he has one and by next weekend you will be set. Getting it right is tough. It's not impossible. But if it throws the chain your going to be very upset with yourself.

Don't apologize to Chris. Order the plate, pay the money. I had help with a trained eye and did not need the plate. It was also 3 years ago before the CJT MINI plate was available.

I wish you luck>??? Welding the missed holes will cost more than the plate itself.

Measure twice cut once. Make a mistake and your in no mans land!!!

TT Out! :smile:
 
H

hardleydavidsein

New Member
#4
#4
TT said:
Take my advice!

Order the plate and don't be foolish and rush it. Chris will ship it out Monday if he has one and by next weekend you will be set. Getting it right is tough. It's not impossible. But if it throws the chain your going to be very upset with yourself.

Don't apologize to Chris. Order the plate, pay the money. I had help with a trained eye and did not need the plate. It was also 3 years ago before the CJT MINI plate was available.

I wish you luck>??? Welding the missed holes will cost more than the plate itself.

Measure twice cut once. Make a mistake and your in no mans land!!!

TT Out! :smile:
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Good advice. I have the plate,clutch and guards from CT for my new bike. Just having the guard is worth the money if something goes wrong with the clutch.

[Fast shipping] I received mine in 3 days.
 
MXMatt

MXMatt

Member
#5
#5
hardleydavidsein said:
Do you have 4 or 8 slots on your bikes mount plate? If you have 8 it's possible to mount the 6.5 without any drilling.[Note: I bought my orange bike with the 6.5 already on it] The mount did not appear to have been drilled. I did have to line the clutch up to keep the chain from flying off,but after that no problems.
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Hardley, My bike only has four slots drilled. Is is possible to mount the motor in those holes and they use the clutch teeth side out? This would cause the motor to be more off centered to the kickstand side of the bike.
 
MXMatt

MXMatt

Member
#6
#6
TT said:
Take my advice!

Order the plate and don't be foolish and rush it. Chris will ship it out Monday if he has one and by next weekend you will be set. Getting it right is tough. It's not impossible. But if it throws the chain your going to be very upset with yourself.

Don't apologize to Chris. Order the plate, pay the money. I had help with a trained eye and did not need the plate. It was also 3 years ago before the CJT MINI plate was available.

I wish you luck>??? Welding the missed holes will cost more than the plate itself.

Measure twice cut once. Make a mistake and your in no mans land!!!

TT Out! :smile:
Click to expand...
I know you are right. It's just that I want to finish this thing "really bad!" (Napolen Dynomite antics)

I got out there and had the whole thing lined up really good and was making a template and everything. Your words just kept ringing in my ears. "No Mans Land" "No Mans Land" I think I'll be patient and place my order. Man, my kid is gonna be disapointed. :doah:
 
MXMatt

MXMatt

Member
#7
#7
Additional questions for my conversion:

2) What size bolt and washer are used in the end of the crank shaft after you install the clutch? I used the key and screw to secure the clutch in place. Is that enough or is the screw/washer necessary?

3) My clutch is a 12 tooth Max Torque with a 70 rear sprocket. How many links to I remove from the stock chain? Or, is it keep removing links until the chain fits?

4) On my Greyhound motor the Pull Start Handle was in a more forward facing position. I removed the three screws that secure the pull start mechanism in place and rotated it so that the handle is now in a more "top and to the rear position." Will this cause any unknown issues that anyone has encountered?

5) Engine Oil: Is it ok to use the packing oil, or should I switch to 10w30 before pulling the cord? Also, there appears to be to places to add and or remove oil from the engine. Is it necessary to add remove oil from both of these pairs of locations, or is it possible to add or drain from either or both?

Thanks again for any help! :thumbsup:
 
H

hardleydavidsein

New Member
#8
#8
I'm new to this hobby so double check.

[2] 5/16-24-1 inch +lock washer & large flat washer. [you can get at lowes or local hardware ]

[3] pull engine to the rear to give yourself adjustment if the chain stretches.

[4] you already put your pull start in the right position!

[5] you can drain the oil from either plug. BUT you should do this before running. I think they put drain & fill ports on either side for different applications. {Don't run on shpping oil}

Hope this helps
 
MXMatt

MXMatt

Member
#9
#9
hardleydavidsein said:
I'm new to this hobby so double check.

[2] 5/16-24-1 inch +lock washer & large flat washer. [you can get at lowes or local hardware ]

[3] pull engine to the rear to give yourself adjustment if the chain stretches.

[4] you already put your pull start in the right position!

[5] you can drain the oil from either plug. BUT you should do this before running. I think they put drain & fill ports on either side for different applications. {Don't run on shpping oil}

Hope this helps
Click to expand...
Thanks a ton Hardly!

I'll be picking up the bold at Home Depot today. Just a clarification on your response to [3]. Do you mean pull the engine toward the rear tire or front?

I know about not running engine on packing oil and to change it several times right away. Seems that most would fill in the front and drain in the rear.:thumbsup:
 
Strigoi

Strigoi

#10
#10
you want the engine towards the back wheel. that way as the chain stretches you can move it forward if necessary.

just order the plate from Chris. it's worth it to wait the extra week.
 
MXMatt

MXMatt

Member
#11
#11
MXMatt said:
Thanks a ton Hardly!

I'll be picking up the bold at Home Depot today. Just a clarification on your response to [3]. Do you mean pull the engine toward the rear tire or front?

I know about not running engine on packing oil and to change it several times right away. Seems that most would fill in the front and drain in the rear.:thumbsup:
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I'm flip flopping like a fish on this one. I am inclined to follow all of your advice about the plate and wait it out, but THERE it sits. I have it all mapped out and am just waiting to drill those four holes.

Curious though. As it sits in there right now, in a forward position, there is really only about 1/4 to 3/8 gap between the rear fender and the OHV cover plate. Are you suggesting I slide it even further back than that?
 
J

JOEMAMA

New Member
#12
#12
The plate will solve all of the problems you are about to have after you attempt to drill the holes yourself.

In the end, you'll drill the holes, wasting a bunch of time and then end up ordering the plate because the holes you drilled aren't 100%.

Personally, I wouldn't waste the time learning the hard way.:wink:
 
MXMatt

MXMatt

Member
#13
#13
JOEMAMA said:
The plate will solve all of the problems you are about to have after you attempt to drill the holes yourself.

In the end, you'll drill the holes, wasting a bunch of time and then end up ordering the plate because the holes you drilled aren't 100%.

Personally, I wouldn't waste the time learning the hard way.:wink:
Click to expand...
I know you and everyone is right. I just gotta get this glutton for punishment out of my system. Hasn't anyone on here successfully drilled those holes in the right place who has measured them and can pass the information along?

Is the issue of drilling the holes that they are not perfectly aligned and angle the motor so that is becomes out of alignment with the rear sproket?
 
Strigoi

Strigoi

#14
#14
MXMatt said:
Is the issue of drilling the holes that they are not perfectly aligned and angle the motor so that is becomes out of alignment with the rear sproket?
Click to expand...
that's one issue. how do you plan on to make the slots so you can move the engine to get the proper chain tension?

just get the plate instead of taking a chance hahahahaing up your frame.
 
MXMatt

MXMatt

Member
#15
#15
Strigoi said:
that's one issue. how do you plan on to make the slots so you can move the engine to get the proper chain tension?

just get the plate instead of taking a chance hahahahaing up your frame.
Click to expand...
Call me ignorant, but I never intended to make slots. Adjustment would be made by removing chain links and/or the tensioner which I would start out in the forward most position. Fill me in here if I am clueless. I havn't drilled yet. Leaning more toward waiting still.
 
jeep2003

jeep2003

#17
#17
id do it without the plate but im stupid/special . It seems a vast majority of people have much difficulty lining up chains even when they think theyve got it right. yes you do want the holes slotted most of the time but if you get it right you can probrobly get away without it since youve got a tentioner. but i dont have a db so...
 
J

JOEMAMA

New Member
#18
#18
Bottom line is you need to have slotted holes in order to adjust the chain tension. Don't kid yourself otherwise. :eek:ut:

Removing a link to adjust the tension doesn't always work - I've run into problems many times where the chain was loose enough to fall off all the time, but removing one link made the chain too tight. So - I had to slide the motor to make the adjustment.

IMHO removing links is only done for the initial setup - not as a chain adjustment solution. The stock chain tensioner is useless as an adjustment mechanism.

If you decide to go ahead and drill holes and slots don't come back complaining that your motor mount is too weak or buggered!:doah:

Unless you are a fabricator and know what your doing, the plate is the best way to go. For god sakes, the guy who makes the kit and plate is a fabricator and even HE uses the plate adapter.:biggrin:
 
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J

JOEMAMA

New Member
#19
#19
MXMatt said:
Call me ignorant.....Fill me in here if I am clueless. I havn't drilled yet. Leaning more toward waiting still.
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You are both ignorant and clueless!!:wink:

More people would have likely attempted drilling the holes/slots themselves, however, cjtmini has made it way too easy by creating and selling his adapter plate. If you want the measurements, he is the guy who would have them.

GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.GO GET THE PLATE.
 
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