Not a nice surprise - Baja 196cc MB165 motor spark plug socket stripped

#1
I picked up a cheap $200 baja mb165, he said the engine just needed a tune up. The bike was in bad shape, but I was going to strip it down in parts and hide them in a cabinet from my wife.

I Decided to donate a rebuilt MB165 mini bike to a family we know that the two boys father was a policeman killed in the line of duty - so I know their mother would never afford this toy, and it would be good to give a little.

So I was going to buy a new predator 212cc and stick it in, but I wanted the lighting coil from the old baja motor, to run the head light. not a big deal, I watched videos on this so this is no big deal.

After looking at the motor, I'm like I can save $100 and just tune this puppy up, I have a new carb in a box, new air filter and filter box, I just need to order a pull starter, and spark plug. I can just do a tune up and save $75.

I replaced the carb, new air filter box, added the pull start, went to change the spark plug, and noticed that it was not all the way seated. I backed out the old plug, and noticed the threads are all jacked up... FDKLFJK$#N#!

I should have went with the harbor freight $99 engine (with coupon). Now I am invested, and want to see this engine roar.

Ok, so I began reading on here, how re-thread it. I am not a engine mechanic by any means, and pulling the head off scares me, so I want to attempt the re-thread with the head on.

I bought this cheap $7 from amazon: ABN 14MM Cylinder Head Spark Plug Rethread Kit - it taps a larger thread, and you use a insert. I will use locktight red to make the insert stay put :)

So my question after all this is:

I want to keep the metal shavings out, I know using a heavy lube on the tapper will get some if I back it out and clean, re-apply lube.

Will it help to remove carb and exhaust and use a air compressor gun and blow out anything? Do I need to turn the crank for the piston to drop 1-2" to have the valves open? maybe pulling the pull start would also blow things out? Or a super strong shop vac sucking it out will do?

will it kill the engine if some of it still is in there, or will it end up in the crankcase in the oil?
 
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#2
pull the head. others may disagree but metal shavings in the combustion chamber
are definitely not a good thing. even soft aluminum.

:hammer:
 
#3
I concur take the head off its not that big of a deal. watch some videos on doing that and readjusting the valves, gaskets are cheap do it right and you wont regret it
 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#4
No big deal to pull the head.
You will never get those shavings out.
Plus gives you a chance to clean up the valves and top of piston.
 
#5
will be fine,because it took extra effort on your part the reward will be that much sweeter when you present your gift.......:scooter: :smile:
 
#6
Ok you guys! I ordered my $9 gaskets (with shipping).

I figure I will leave the head on while I tap it of course, then remove it to clean. Hopefully I don't find any more surprises when I take it off.

Here are the steps I think I need to do:

1) Remove valve cover
2) Remove Spark Plug (Already done!)
3) Set piston so its TDC
4) Loosen rocker arms (I dont have to remove them completly right>) so enough so you can turn them to get push rods free
5) Lift out push rods
6) Remove 4 head bolts
7) Clean and inspect everything

Put everything back in Reverse order (with new gasket) and adjust rocker arm gap with feeler gauges.


Since I got the whole gasket package, I might take the side one out and inspect everything, and clean out any gunk.
 
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#7
Ok you guys! I ordered my $9 gaskets (with shipping).

I figure I will leave the head on while I tap it of course, then remove it to clean. Hopefully I don't find any more surprises when I take it off.

Here are the steps I think I need to do:

1) Remove valve cover
2) Remove Spark Plug (Already done!)
3) Set piston so its TDC
4) Loosen rocker arms (I dont have to remove them completly right>) so enough so you can turn them to get push rods free
5) Lift out push rods
6) Remove 4 head bolts
7) Clean and inspect everything

Put everything back in Reverse order (with new gasket) and adjust rocker arm gap with feeler gauges.


Since I got the whole gasket package, I might take the side one out and inspect everything, and clean out any gunk.
I would take the head off the motor, then run the thread chaser through it. Were talking about tiny shavings, that your eye may not catch, but they will be caught between your piston and cylinder wall. Since you are going to remove the head no matter what, do it before you clean the threads. Just my opinion though. You will want to set your piston to TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke to set your valve lash. You can loosen your rockers enough to slide them at an angle and your pushrods will pull right out, or they will come out when you pull the head due to your guide plate. You got this, nothing to be scared of, and 8 bolts is all(10 if you include taking the nuts off your carb studs) :thumbsup:
 
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#8
It will probably be easier to use the tool from the combustion chamber side to clean up the hole and cut the threads. Then install the insert from the plug side so that it stays in place.

And a word of advice on RED Loctite. Apply it, install it and let it sit a full 24 hours in the house where its warm so that it dries fully before you try to install the plug and disturb the bond between the insert and the head.

Doug


PS; CLEAN the pee out of the threads with a good brake cleaner before you install the insert with the red Loctite. Don't use carb cleaner as it leave a residue behind. And make sure its dry first too.
 
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#9
OK I took your guys's advice I do appreciate it.

It wasn't that bad!

Here are the pics after a quick clean up (will clean it all off), it was not that dirty. I am waiting on my amazon shipment tonight with the re-threader.

qEPOG1X.png

NSmZGkI.jpg


Should I use a gasket sealant of some sort, or put the new gaskets on dry?
 
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#13
OMG re-threading that sparkplug hole is a BI0TTTTTCH! Im 1.5 hours into already. The old spark plug hole seemed to taper a bit, so I had to cut through that first. ugggggg

EDIT: GOT IT DONE! YEAH! Thanks all!

Waiting for my gasket kit from ebay to arrive....prob monday ;(


2IPTmYZ.jpg
 
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#15
Thanks Guys! Hopefully one last question.

When putting on the gaskits, do I need to put any gasket sealer,oil,lube, or put them on dry?
 
#16
Some might disagree with me on this but for doing your valve lash, and you can do this to any motor with any number of cylinders even if you don't know the firing order. I turn the motor tell you see the exhaust open and close followed by intake open and close. Make sure they do this in that order. If they did not than you turned the motor backwards and need to go the other way. As soon as you see the intake valve close all the way, turn your motor 90*-120* further. This will insure that both valves are closed. You can set your valve lash as after the intake closes your going to come up on the compression stroke so both valves are closed. I wish we could convince you to lap the valves too :smile: Half the battle of learning to working on motors is getting the courage to take it apart. You will feel much better that you did after you get this running. Glad to see your taking the time to do this right.
 
#17
I put them on dry. The only time I put something on a gasket is if a fluid in direct contact with the gasket. I might be wrong on these motors as I don't build them yet but on cars I put them on dry and would assume all motors are that way unless you have some instructions with the gasket that says otherwise.
 
#19
How much time you spend cleaning that head? It looks almost new.
Seriously 5-6 minutes tops. I used a can of brake cleaner from Orielly auto parts (their brand) $4.99 and a shop rag. There was a couple spots I used a very fine wire brush (Brass bristles) with the brake cleaner (on the head only, not the piston head). I was shocked to see how clean it was when I opened it aswell, considering the outside look like it went through hell and back.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#20
Kinda makes you wonder what happened in the first place. Did the former owner use a plug that extended too far into the combustion chamber leaving it exposed to years of carbon buildup? Or did they cross thread the thing in? Myself, I do not install sparkplugs into anything without a light coat of anti seize on the threads. This is one of my prep items on my clones before they are ever first started.

I never use gasket sealer unless it is called for. On these small engines it is not needed. I guess a lot of people use it to be more confident with the installation or they are already dealing with a leaking issue they are attempting to correct.
 
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