Powell model H restore

#21
Wheels and brake parts are back from the powder coater today. One more step to being done.

I'll probably reuse the original tires, but I used new bearings and tubes.


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#23
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Does anyone have any ideas or tricks on replacing the small idler pulley bearings on my belt tensioner?

It seems to be a welded together unit from the factory.
 
#24
It is welded from the factory and you'll have to take one side lose to change the bearings . The bearings are the same as what in the wheels .
A little grinding and welding is all that needed . And just don't tell anybody, cause we all know when you cut something on these people freak .
 
#26
It is welded from the factory and you'll have to take one side lose to change the bearings . The bearings are the same as what in the wheels .
A little grinding and welding is all that needed . And just don't tell anybody, cause we all know when you cut something on these people freak .
I noticed the bearing being the same. They are good bearings from Japan. Maybe I'll try a grease repacking before I start the cutting and welding.
 
#28
A little of the chrome finally back. And a little more is still there, and those chrome platers are a finicky lot, so who knows when the other parts will be done.

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#30
Finally another part back from the chrome man...........

The seat bracket.

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And the finished seat.......

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At this rate, I should have this job done somewhere around next summer !! Wow !!
 
#32
Finally the frame back from the powder coater. Just in time for the holidays. Now I just need the time to work on it !!!

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It was the closest color they had to the original Powell green that I could find in his selection of colors. I never realized that the color choices are not as vast with powder coating as they are with spray paint.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#33
:drool: Nice!!!! I really wanted to do the green when I was redoing an "MO" model. My PC guy was doing a bunch of panels for some caterpillar earth movers....lets just say the excavating company may have helped pay the bill on mine since it got coated at the same time in the new cat yellow so I just did that instead :wink: Looks VERY cool....I am green with envy! :laugh:
 
#36
:drool: Nice!!!! I really wanted to do the green when I was redoing an "MO" model. My PC guy was doing a bunch of panels for some caterpillar earth movers....lets just say the excavating company may have helped pay the bill on mine since it got coated at the same time in the new cat yellow so I just did that instead :wink: Looks VERY cool....I am green with envy! :laugh:
I think my color might have something to do with a Kawasaki frame he talked about. Maybe that was why it was way cheaper than I figured. Anyway, I never knew PC was so thick and sturdy. I was so thick, that now it almost covers up the serial number. You can still read it, just not as much as before with "regular" paint.
 

Itype2slo

Well-Known Member
#39
A little of the chrome finally back. And a little more is still there, and those chrome platers are a finicky lot, so who knows when the other parts will be done.

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I love this bike. I had a question what is the distance between the bottom of the upper fork and the bottom of the axel tabs, either 5 1/2" or 7 1/2" . Some bikes had longer forks and some shorter can't find any rhyme or reason to the ones I,ve come across. Thanks.
 
#40
I love this bike. I had a question what is the distance between the bottom of the upper fork and the bottom of the axel tabs, either 5 1/2" or 7 1/2" . Some bikes had longer forks and some shorter can't find any rhyme or reason to the ones I,ve come across. Thanks.
I had two E models, where I disassembled the forks for chrome. One of them had the fork tubes crimped at the top. The other set were round. Both used the welded on rings, which had to be removed for chrome. (To get the springs off) When you removed the rings on the crimped version, you could not remove the springs due to the crimps.

Based on serial numbers, I assumed the crimped version was the newer, improved idea. I do not recall this causing a difference in fork length, but you certainly had to cut the ends of the fork tube to get springs off. I welded them back on with slugs. If someone did not reweld them after spring removal, they would have been 2 inches shorter.

Just a guess here. No idea if this applied to other models.
 
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