Predator 212 Bolt Torque Specs?

#2
The instructions don't specify I noticed.

Torque specs are applied to bolt size, thread pitch, and grade. A 5/16-24 grade 5 is 17-19 inch pounds, while a grade 8 is 24-27. Lock washers are used, so I wouldn't bother with loc-tite.

Edit: You can Google bolt torque specs and see several on-line charts for future reference.
 
#3
Or you could look ^ and read the sticky titled Honda/Clone 5.5 and 6.5 bolt size and torque specs. I don't know if the side bolts are listed but I think they only have 2 different values as Havasu Dave pointed out.
 
#4
Or you could look ^ and read the sticky titled Honda/Clone 5.5 and 6.5 bolt size and torque specs. I don't know if the side bolts are listed but I think they only have 2 different values as Havasu Dave pointed out.
Looks like clones use M7 instead of 5/16. ?? Use anti-seize and the lock washers and go for 20 foot pounds on either M7 or 5/16 and you're there. Comet supplies 1" long 5/16-24's. A million people have done this modification to their predators, so they'll know if it's metric or SAE. I'd buy some grade 8 metrics before I tapped a hole to fit SAE.
 
#5
The instructions don't specify I noticed.

Torque specs are applied to bolt size, thread pitch, and grade. A 5/16-24 grade 5 is 17-19 inch pounds, while a grade 8 is 24-27. Lock washers are used, so I wouldn't bother with loc-tite.

Edit: You can Google bolt torque specs and see several on-line charts for future reference.
Thanks,

I searched on this forum for "predator torque specs" and got nothing.

These are 8mm bolts.

I had always thought that torque specs are for the tapped hole, not the bolt. Over torquing will strip the aluminum before it breaks a steel bolt, grade 8 or not. The aluminum on this engine case seems to be made of silly putty.
 
#6
I had always thought that torque specs are for the tapped hole, not the bolt. Over torquing will strip the aluminum before it breaks a steel bolt, grade 8 or not. The aluminum on this engine case seems to be made of silly putty.
There are numerous "recommendations" on torque into aluminum. For example torqueing down aluminum heads in high performance applications. From the recommendations out there take your M8 torque down about 3 pounds from the cast rating. All of that depends on what grade of M8 you are using. The specs are for the bolt shaft size- not the hole.

Since you are installing a non-critical part, get it nice and tight using anti-seize compound on the threads. That is the biggest issue with steel into aluminum. It's called galling. It will feel like you are applying a lot of torque as you tighten, because of the heat expansion against the aluminum, when in effect, you're just messing up the threads. On your TAV plate, you could get by with plain old grease and German torque. (Good-N-Tight)
 
#7
There are numerous "recommendations" on torque into aluminum. For example torqueing down aluminum heads in high performance applications. From the recommendations out there take your M8 torque down about 3 pounds from the cast rating. All of that depends on what grade of M8 you are using. The specs are for the bolt shaft size- not the hole.

Since you are installing a non-critical part, get it nice and tight using anti-seize compound on the threads. That is the biggest issue with steel into aluminum. It's called galling. It will feel like you are applying a lot of torque as you tighten, because of the heat expansion against the aluminum, when in effect, you're just messing up the threads. On your TAV plate, you could get by with plain old grease and German torque. (Good-N-Tight)
Good advise. I am all too familiar with the risks and effects of galling :rolleyes:. However the German torquing method I knew as a different name...

My challenge is that the back plate of my TC is modified to fit in a certain frame. When I say "modified", I mean the bolt holes are now slotted and when I say "fit", I mean shoe-horn.

The angle of the chain will put only a slight rotational load on the plate, but I currently have star lock washers that have an aggressive grip, and my Teutonic torquing should be fine.
 
#8
I always called it Toms Table of Torque. Unh is tight. Unnnh is really tight. And if you shit yourself, or utter the word shit, you went way too tight. I usually break out the torque wrenches for critical things like head bolts, rocker arms, or rod bolts.
 
#9
In case you are wondering what this newbee is talking about, here is the "project". Note the holes in the plate had to be modified to allow the plate to rotate closer to the engine. I still had to modify the frame to make it fit, though...

web20141130_185052.jpg
 
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