Preparing steel frame for painting

#1
I've stripped this here Stellar down to it's naked steel frame and want to make sure I prepare the metal for painting correctly. The old paint was quite bumpy and whatnot. Wanted a nice smooth finish.

What have some of you used in the past to get it all squeeky clean and oil free? Looks pretty wild like this. Like a Terminator. Tempted to just clear coat it. HAHA

Thanks

 

bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#2
I just use Lacquer thinner and a clean lint free cloth and wipe it down.

As for that Glass smooth paint job, The finer the sand paper, the better the paint job.

An always use a tack cloth before you paint.
 
#4
This has been discussed a few times here. A quality wax and grease remover. Etch prime, primer surfacer, wet sand with 400-600, seal and color/clear. Tack in between coats. Rattle cans can achieve a nice finish if you take the time to apply them correctly.
 
#5
This has been discussed a few times here. A quality wax and grease remover. Etch prime, primer surfacer, wet sand with 400-600, seal and color/clear. Tack in between coats. Rattle cans can achieve a nice finish if you take the time to apply them correctly.
What's a tack. I seen above bikebudy said the same. And what's a primer surfacer and what do you use to seal. I know it's a lot of questions. But inquiring minds need to know.
 
#6
Tack clotch or cheese cloth. It's exactly that, a tacky clotch that removes dust particles and dirt/lint. Primer surfacer or high build primer is used to fill/smooth minior sand scratches. I prep the frame with 220. If it's not bare metal, I lay 3 good wet coats of high build primer. Wet sand with 400 and then 600. You can use a guide coat to get it perfect. Sealer prevents the solvents of the color and clear from breaking down the primer and having things dive back or show through (sand scratches, body work etc).
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#8
a word of advice... Don't use household rags to wipe the parts down before priming or painting... house rags will contain laundry soap and or softener which will contaminate the surface, use new paper towels and then tack like described above..

I've used 100% mineral spirits and paper towels for years to wipe down cars, bikes etc before any painting...

also don't wipe hard with the tack clothe or you can leave residue from the rag on the surface also, just lightly and gently wipe it across the surface..
 
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#9
a word of advice... Don't use household rags to wipe the parts down before priming or painting... house rags will contain laundry soap and or softener which will contaminate the surface, use new paper towels and then tack like described above..

I've used 100% mineral spirits and paper towels for years to wipe down cars, bikes etc before any painting...

also don't wipe hard with the tack clothe or you can leave residue from the rag on the surface also, just lightly and gently wipe it across the surface..
More great advice!


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#10
I use Acetone on the bare metal :thumbsup: If you are going to spray bomb it use Duplicolor , Rustoleum sucks :doah: and follow the instructions on the can :thumbsup:
 
#11
There are some catalyzed aerosols on the market. Eastwood, Roth and so on. They are worth the extra money IMHO.


Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
 
#13
also don't wipe hard with the tack clothe or you can leave residue from the rag on the surface also, just lightly and gently wipe it across the surface..
I was going to say, something tacky seems to me likey to leave its own residue. So thanks for clarifying that.

So I think I've got a pretty good idea of how you guys go about this. Thanks all. One question I still have is one the primer: do any of you roll it on with a small sponge roller? Ive primed lots of things that way and I find it great for getting nice thick layers of it on. But these items were not show pieces likevi want these bikes to be. I will be sanding between coats and I am using Duplicolor engine enamel mainly cuz I bought a bunch of it and I love the colors.
 
#14
I wouldn't roll the primer.... But I would use a tack cloth. Don't rub. It's almost like you're dusting the piece off with it.


Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#16
A whole lot of great advice.
As mentioned, acetone is my wiping choice. Burns a little but, works for me
I have found that the most important aspect of getting a great paint finish is all in the prep.

Sand wipe, sand, wipe, sand, wipe....you want the bare surface as smooth as you can. The primer filer will take care of the rest. Smooth as a baby's bottom.
 
#17
I've stripped this here Stellar down to it's naked steel frame and want to make sure I prepare the metal for painting correctly. The old paint was quite bumpy and whatnot. Wanted a nice smooth finish.

What have some of you used in the past to get it all squeeky clean and oil free? Looks pretty wild like this. Like a Terminator. Tempted to just clear coat it. HAHA

Thanks


I would go to the local blaster and have the frame professionally stripped. It is worth the $30.00
 
#18
I use acetone as well , dupli-color is good stuff ! I use a couple coats of self etching.primer , then a couple coats of filler primer then at least 3 cans of paint ( 4-5 ) coats , then 3-4 coats of clear ! Sanding in between is important !
 
#19
Costs a good bit to do it right , can powder coat for only a little more but you can't easily touch up powder coating like you can spray paint ! Google Automotive Touch Up , great paint , urethane based , all the cool Mopar colors , $20 a can and gives a professional looking job !
 

Itype2slo

Well-Known Member
#20
I use acetone as well , dupli-color is good stuff ! I use a couple coats of self etching.primer , then a couple coats of filler primer then at least 3 cans of paint ( 4-5 ) coats , then 3-4 coats of clear ! Sanding in between is important !
I like acetone no oily residue or leftovers. Just after wiping the frame down don't put the acetone rag in your pocket. That's never fun.
 
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