Still trying to get spark on this H35 side popper. Right off the bat I changed the points and condenser as I had them around and best to just do that anyway. I still didn't get spark. I think disconnected the kill switch wire in case there was a short or a fray in the wire i wasn't seeing and switched out the coil for another one I had on a blown engine. Still no spark. I'm using a brand new plug by the way and the flywheel magnets are strong. So then I figured I'd time it just for giggles and I experienced something weird. I disconnected the leads from the stator plate and clipped on the positive wire from my multimeter and I clipped the neg wire on a cooling fin and it made the squeel it makes when contact is made but it stopped within 5 seconds. Then nothing. I tried other areas to ground the ground wire on but nothing. I assume this is the coil because the condener is new and the coil is just a left over that could have been dead. If you are going to time an engine and you hook up the multimeter and get no juice even when points are making contact, does it point to the coil?
Problem coil or condenser?
No. In that test, all you're doing is checking for continuity between point contacts. To check the condenser, you set your meter on ohms, and put one lead on the condenser terminal, the other on the case. Leave it there a second or two, switch your meter to low voltage scale (1.5 even) and put the leads back on the condenser. You should see a voltage charge on your meter, which should quickly discharge.
This is a rudimentary test. A capacitor tester is far better, but I would do this anyway, since you might have hurt something in the squeal test, of which I am not familiar. If the condenser seems to do what it's supposed to do, swap coils with one of the fifty three sets you have sitting around. (grin)
This is a rudimentary test. A capacitor tester is far better, but I would do this anyway, since you might have hurt something in the squeal test, of which I am not familiar. If the condenser seems to do what it's supposed to do, swap coils with one of the fifty three sets you have sitting around. (grin)
Yeah but if you are using the multimeter as a continuity "light" (even though its a squeel) and you get no squeel with points open or closed, at some point there is a break, right? And wouldn't that break be in the coil? Yeah I tested the condenser for the heck of it. I watched the shoot up and then collapse.
When you're checking continuity for points timing, everything is 100% disconnected. By squeal....are you referring to the beeper setting on your meter? LOL. Anyway, none of this has anything to do with the coil.
If you're not getting continuity between your points, then your meter is broke, you have a bad meter lead, or your points are not actually closing.
Sounds like your condenser is good.
If you're not getting continuity between your points, then your meter is broke, you have a bad meter lead, or your points are not actually closing.
Sounds like your condenser is good.
Hmmm... points not closing... I hadn't thought about that one. Visually it looks like they are but maybe not. They are new so I hadn't thought to check em that close. I will though. I saw a youtube on checking the coil but the OHMS setting they were using (I think x200) wasn't a choice on mine. So I don't know if the reading was correct. I put new batteries in the multimeter after it beeped and stopped thinking they died. I don't want to keep grabbing coils off the 50 other engines I have as getting to them is real PITA. Ya know?
Brian, what you are seeing, I have seen too. ESPECIALLY with new points! For some reason, they're pretty stiff and I have had to take some of that out of them. (Working them)
Another thing that a few of the Tecumseh guys have related, was that sometimes at .020 gap at TDC, the resultant correct timing (points closed at XXX thousanths) wont even happen until much later. In other words, sometimes you have to time at .014 at TDC to achieve correct timing.
LOL, not making it up.
Hey, touch your leads together, and they should beep. If they do, meter and leads are fine. Touch one lead to an engine ground and another one to an engine ground elsewhere. Should beep. If you don't get that with your points closing, then your points aren't closing.
How far in the hole are you adjusting to?
Another thing that a few of the Tecumseh guys have related, was that sometimes at .020 gap at TDC, the resultant correct timing (points closed at XXX thousanths) wont even happen until much later. In other words, sometimes you have to time at .014 at TDC to achieve correct timing.
LOL, not making it up.
Hey, touch your leads together, and they should beep. If they do, meter and leads are fine. Touch one lead to an engine ground and another one to an engine ground elsewhere. Should beep. If you don't get that with your points closing, then your points aren't closing.
How far in the hole are you adjusting to?
Well they are closed....
And they arent!!
Depends on what part of the ring they are on. Haha When i zoom in on this video i can actually see them lift before the high spot. So that is going to prevent spark from happening right? Not enough electrical build up before they open and the ckt collapses? Thats how my tiny brain thinks of it at least...
Points issue: https://youtu.be/ImyRv5jzTmg
Is this a matter of cleaning the ring or do i need a new one?
And they arent!!
Depends on what part of the ring they are on. Haha When i zoom in on this video i can actually see them lift before the high spot. So that is going to prevent spark from happening right? Not enough electrical build up before they open and the ckt collapses? Thats how my tiny brain thinks of it at least...
Points issue: https://youtu.be/ImyRv5jzTmg
Is this a matter of cleaning the ring or do i need a new one?
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Are the points set to .020"?
The points cam (the little ring) might be dirty, but I think making a small adjustment to the points gap would fix the issue. Basically, they should be closed until the little hump makes contact. Yours looks like it's opening up too soon and for too long.
A new cam might be in your future too if for some reason you can't get that one figured out
Tecumseh 30552 Cam Breaker Lot E 1 | eBay
The points cam (the little ring) might be dirty, but I think making a small adjustment to the points gap would fix the issue. Basically, they should be closed until the little hump makes contact. Yours looks like it's opening up too soon and for too long.
A new cam might be in your future too if for some reason you can't get that one figured out
Tecumseh 30552 Cam Breaker Lot E 1 | eBay
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I have put a meter across brand new points on more than one occasion and got no current flow when the points are making contact. I'm mashing the points together with my fingers...one lead on the fixed point and the other lead on the moving point..two brand new shiny points touching each other and nothing!! No meter reading, no beep....no continuity between the two. Me and my kid staring at it like it can't be possible.
There is some kind of weird oxidation that forms especially on NOS points that are 20-30 years old. It doesn't look oxidized..they look clean. It's like it's invisible. Pull a strip of 1000 grit paper through the closed points so it cleans both sides and spray a little electrical contact cleaner in there to flush it out and BAM...working !
There is some kind of weird oxidation that forms especially on NOS points that are 20-30 years old. It doesn't look oxidized..they look clean. It's like it's invisible. Pull a strip of 1000 grit paper through the closed points so it cleans both sides and spray a little electrical contact cleaner in there to flush it out and BAM...working !
have you had the entire assy off the engine, if so take it back loose and double check that its seated correctly, They are just loose enough of a fit to get caught on the lip around the crank if your not careful. take the timing lobe off and clean/polish it up, check the tab on the points that rides on the lobe for burs or imperfections, and clean and buff it up, I always take the points out and lightly clean the contacts on the wire wheel on my bench grinder to clean off haze and burn marks.
No I didn't take it completely off. Yeah I'm going to start doing the same.
Geez, I used to spend a good hour cleaning the existing points on these old engines when I'd get them. Sanding, filing, rubbing alcohol and BAM they'd spark up. Then I bought a few sets of nos points and condensers thinking why am I wasting my time with all that cleaning? Just slap new ones in a move on. LOL
Tonight I'll clean the ring and the contact of the points and we'll see what's up. Daddy needs spark, lil H35!
I may even post another video!
Geez, I used to spend a good hour cleaning the existing points on these old engines when I'd get them. Sanding, filing, rubbing alcohol and BAM they'd spark up. Then I bought a few sets of nos points and condensers thinking why am I wasting my time with all that cleaning? Just slap new ones in a move on. LOL
Tonight I'll clean the ring and the contact of the points and we'll see what's up. Daddy needs spark, lil H35!
I may even post another video!
Ok i took the points back out and the ring off and cleaned em up real good. I ran the ring gently over some very fine sandpaper. Shot some electrical cleaner inbetween the points as well.
https://youtu.be/g96nIHGWqtM
And...
https://youtu.be/ONOPI6InVs4
Yes!!! Thanks all.
https://youtu.be/g96nIHGWqtM
And...
https://youtu.be/ONOPI6InVs4
Yes!!! Thanks all.
I did the ultimate in boneheaded moves with this one Friday night. After connecting a carb I rebuilt it started right up but was smoking a bit. I shut it off and checked the oil and it was black. I had forgetten to change the oil which is usually one of the first things I do when trying to start one of these old ones I find. So I drained the oil and filled it up with new oil, clamped it down and started it up. Ran beautifully for about a minute. Then I noticed oil spewing out the front all over the work bench. I forgot to put the plug back in. All the new oil ran right out probably as I was filling it. I shut it down right at the point it was starting to sound rough. But I think it was too late. It's not starting and when I pull it there is a strage knocking. It's not seized as it turns over with compression. But something got effed up. What a shame. This was one of the better ones I've picked recently.
If it's not seized what else could have happened to make it not start? I'm thinking the rings got mesed up?
If it's not seized what else could have happened to make it not start? I'm thinking the rings got mesed up?
